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Astroboffin

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Everything posted by Astroboffin

  1. Sorry not got back to you as promised, got called away to work, am back today so will check later I promise
  2. I will check in the morning, I can use an old phone extension, as long as you don't mind it being white ? and are you happy to then not use your origonal curly cable, as this one will be male to male connectors, don't have any female ones, they are a bit more tricky to put on. phone handset cable is the one used on the skywatcher motor focusers, it's 4p4c 4 core cable, phone line extension cable is 6 core but I can cut 2 cores off and the connectors will fit fine, and test on my skywatcher focuser before I send. AB
  3. Hi, i have made several of these cables you talk about, I bought he 4 core flat phone cable the 4 pin crimp on end connectors and the crimping tool. but you only need 2 core cable for the skywatcher DC motor, so how long does it need to be, and I may be able to make you one up, but it will be a complete cable with male connectors on both ends, to go from focuser to hand control, and do away with the curly cable altogether. let me know the length, and if I have a long enough piece of cable I will make you one, and send for the cost of parts plus postage. AB
  4. Most are fused, but some of the very cheap ones are not, I also have used the Marine type cigar plugs, (same as Chris above)as they have a twist lock feature which means that you push in an twist one quarter turn and they lock and can't be pulled out by accident, they have to be twisted back and pulled, so,no accidents with them, and obviously they are fused...if you look at the picture that Chris has posted above, it shows on the plugs the twist lock feature. AB
  5. Hi, that all sounds very strange indeed, I used an SX wheel and as it uses a Hall sensor to detect filter position, it is virtually impossible for it not to be aligned with the hole. i am pretty sure Atik uses a similar method of filter positioning, so even if it was very stiff and the drive wheel was slipping it should not report that the filter is in position until it is, I think they use a Hall sensor also which detects a metal peg in the edge of the wheel carousel, and the sensor is magnetised, so when it picks up the metal peg it can very accurately position it. so if it is stopping short and saying that the filter is in the correct position, then it sounds like the hall sensor is failing in some way, maybe a loose wire or the sensor itself has failed. contact Atik on there customer support email, they are very good and will answer pretty quick, if it needs repair they will turn it around very quickly, or they do here in the UK anyway. hope that is of some help. AB
  6. +1 for the powerline network plug option, and they will work on extension leads, but NOT if they have surge protectors built in, as a lot of them do, especially the four or six way adapters. i have come across the odd ones that will work in surge protectors, but not many do, or they tend to drop out now and again, which you don't want when imaging. AB
  7. The reason behind this question, is that I while looking for an Atik 383L+ OSC I was offered a mono version at a steal of a price, much too low to say no too, it is mint. now the OSC one has come up on ABS for a good price, I thought that I could have the two for less than a new 383L+ would cost, so a no brainer really, and with the cost of a filter wheel and 36mm filters running to around £800 it will actually work out cheaper also, and the weight issue on my focuser would be resolved at the same time..so,win win..or not so as for the problem of havimg twice as much green in the OSC image as the other two colours, this may be a stupid question, but couldn't I just adjust the green channel in post processing. .? Or is that too easy and I am missing something ? thanks for the replies guys and gals.. AB
  8. Hi, i have a question for you guys Taking the cost out of the equation, will imaging with a mono camera and LRGB filters, give more or less the same results as imaging with a mono and OSC camera, as long as the camera are the same model, ie, two Atik 383L+ cameras, one mono and one color, then combine the images together..my logic being that the mono will give all the detail and the RGB from the color camera... what are your thoughts other than being more expensive which is obvious.. AB
  9. Surely it's not just about the close by street lighting that you need to consider, but on a much wider scale, if you have LED street lamps around your house, but on a much wider scale they are sodium, then the CLS and suchlike will work fine. i live in the middle of three major cities, around 25miles from each of them, so that's where my LP comes from, not the three or four street lamps down the road....it's the cities that give my images the orange glow...especially if imaging low down towards any horizon. or maybe I have it wrong
  10. This looks good, and pretty straight forward scroll down the page a bit http://www.ollyspages.co.uk/p/diy-equipment.html AB
  11. I would, but put some vents in the sides top and bottom though, to get a really good airflow, which will stop any condensation or damp, many people build obsy''s and insulate and put heat in, then they get full of damp from condensation, because of no ventilation. ventilation is the key to no damp, if you need a dehumidifier then you have damp, which means not enough ventilation, so ventilate then no need for heat or dehumidifier. but still a good idea to put a waterproof membrane between the outer skin and frame, but a breathable one. AB
  12. Very nice, and a massive difference, although the first one ain't bad either.... AB
  13. Hi, yes just stack each colour channel individually, LRGB, and then you will have 4 stacked images, then move to photoshop, or whatever you use, and align & combine the images to get a full colour image. thats the way I understood it was done anyway.... Maybe I will stand corrected, by more experienced imagers on here...... AB
  14. Sorry to hear that, hope all is well later on when you have a good look at your kit, I think most Astro kit is pretty resilient AB
  15. That is normal, they are what's called hot pixels, and by taking a dark to start with it will remove them for you, before starting your guiding you click on the take dark button, and the software will automatically subtract this from the subsequent images so removing any artefacts, such as hot pixels. hot pixels will show on any CCD or CMOS camera, even the most expensive CCD cameras have a few, even when cooled to -30.... its nothing to worry about and completely normal, I had the same camera but the mono version for guiding and my dark looked just the same. hop that puts your mind at rest AB
  16. Ok, but the black and white sliders are all the way to the left... so how do I correct for when I do my actual dark frames, as surely they would not work looking like this ? cheers AB
  17. Hi all, i have received my Atik 383L+ camera, and as others have said on here you can do your darks in the daytime with the set point cooling, so before I started I just had a little play, I cooled the camera as you can see in the screenshot, set it on the dark setting so the shutter stays shut, also the camera was upside down on my desk so no chance of light getting in, and did a quick 18 second dark just for test purposes, and this is what I got, now I expected it to be black with some hot pixels, as that's what my darks have looked like from my DSLR, so what is it like this, is it because it is fairly well stretched as I have the auto stretch box checked....?? i also did a 3 min version and looked pretty much the same thanks for any advice AB
  18. Hi Gina, i would need it to be 95mm diameter with a 5mm centre hole many thanks
  19. Hi Gina, did you manage to find the SketchUp file, I think it will be perfect for my needs, and save me having to buy a complete new filter wheel, as the one I have only will take 1.25" filters, and need a 36mm carousel. much appreciated AB
  20. Hi, that would be great if you are happy to share, I don't need the spur gears around the edge, but one with holes for optical indexing would be good, I have downloaded SketchUp, so I could upload the file and just tweak it a bit for my needs... Much appreciated AB
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