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About jcm

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  1. Hi there, hope you don't mind quick question. I'm looking at getting a Skywatcher Equinox 80ED but as it comes without EP's I have to choose a widefield one. The Baader Hyperion 24mm looks good but I'm a bit concerned about the weight, esp with a diagonal. The f-ratio is 6.25, so I'm interested that you've found the 5mm ok with an F6. The Equinox is well-built, metal, and has a 2" focuser so it should be ok even if it needs a bit of weight on the front to balance it. Scary business, buying EPs, so any thoughts welcome.  Best.....

  2. Hi All, Will be there on Saturday ( with my daughter ). Looking forward to meeting the "FLO people". John
  3. jcm


    Wow! Great image. I assume you added Ha to the red channel? John
  4. M106 is a tricky object for a non modded DSLR camera. You have made a good attempt. Try working at 800 iso ( means slightly longer exposures ) and think about using the Astronomik CLS or IDAS light pollution filters. These darken the sky background and make the object more visible. John
  5. Thanks for the positive comments. Getting the RC scope collimated properly seems to have improved my images. John
  6. Boosted the colour a bit. John
  7. Last night ( 7th March) was clear enough to attempt some imaging though the clouds did roll in after midnight. Rather a lot of haze did not help matters so I chose M106 which was fairly high up and in the opposite direction to the Moon. Scope - 8" RC working a F5.6 Camera - Atik 460EX Mount - EQ8 7 X 8mins for each filter - Red, Green, Blue and Luminance John
  8. I think the 383L would be OK as it is that bit smaller than a DSLR sensor. 13.5 X 18.2 mm for 383L and 14.8 X 22.2 mm for DSLR John
  9. Hi, I have been focusing on a star about half way between the centre of the image and the corner. Not sure what the 2/3 rds technique is. The reducer to CCD distance was about 53/54mm a bit less than the 55/57mm that WO suggest.(digital calipers) The reducer does not cover a DSLR chip completely.( its not bad but stars in all corners are elongated slightly) John
  10. Just thought I would post a couple of images taken with the new WO 81GT. The focuser seems easily hold my Atik 460EX/filter Wheel/OAG. Still having a few problems with the reducer-CCD distance but I'm very close now to the optimum value. Both images were taken using a 0.8X focal teducer. 1. NGC 2244 (Rosette Neb) 5X8mins Ha and 5X8mins OIII - synthesised green channel. White stars - no time for RGB. 2. Horsehead and flame Neb 10 X 5mins Ha filter. Quick processing to get some results quickly. John
  11. Hi Steve, I do have all the necessary filters! I still need to do so more testing but with some clear skies I hope to get a fully calibrated/processed image soon. It may depend how long I "fiddle" with the reducer/chip distance. John
  12. I have mounted this scope on my 8"RC. Getting the reducer/flattener to the best position needed several attempts. I suppose this is only to be expected working at F4.7 - I think I have just about got it right (53/54mm to CCD chip)though it may still need a minor adjustment.(WO say 55 to 57) Last night ( 19th dec) I managed to get a few images though the GT81. It was murky, cold and a nearly full moon was up. I opted to test the scope on NGC2244. I took a series of images using my Atik 460EX ( + ha filter - to reduce moonlight) 1x3min , 1X5min , 1X 8min and 1 X 10min There was no problem
  13. Hi Steve, Thanks for taking the time to find the focuser thread size. John
  14. Does anybody know if the Esprit 100mm APO has a 68mm thread connection at the end of the focuser. I cannot use the field flattener because there is not enough back focus for my setup. I read somewhere that it had but I cannot find any other confirmation. John
  15. 52.5mm is not a lot of space! Going to measure my back focus - I need 54.5mm to fit in filter wheel + OAG +Atik 460EX I do have the TS 2" field flattener - which has more back space. PS Thanks FLO for the correction. John
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