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Posts posted by Neko

  1. 2 hours ago, skybadger said:

    The point is really to rough adjust using the black known and then fine adjust using the screws. No slip that way. I sold my sp after putting LX belt drive on it. . Still have a Dx with ss2k. 

     Not that it slips.. but sometimes when changing direction it might move; itbhappen to me that PHD2 reporting. polar alignment value and a different one when changing direction or area of sky. Hence why..


    What's the LX belt ? I have ss2kPC on my SP, but was thinking on modding with belt.  As a Japanese friend who has done it with GP told me, it is hard to get proper tension, as it doesn't have a good way to do it in that mount. 


    Would like to know your experience with belts in an SP :)

  2. 1 hour ago, skybadger said:

    The knob is an indexing clamp for course latitude adjustment.  underneath there is an indexed plate, release the knob, move the mount by an index (think gear teeth or splines) and retighten, then fine adjust for latitude using the screws. It came like that from the manufacturer. Some people removed them as they were a bit 'fussy' sometimes to setup. 

    Yes, I've taken down the whole mount few times.  That indexed plate limits to some degrees the amount of latitude to be sdjusted. If doesn't reach, needs to loosen the main screw, move the outer plate that keeps presure with an Spring, then tight again. 

    Still , if you had adjusted your polar alignment with polar scope, and when youre ready , tighten that black knob , you'll see polaris position shifting.. even if you just stand at the back of the mount and tight that knob, you'll see a tilt.   Since I discovered that, i leave it loose, and insted installed that screw in front. 🤷🏻‍♂️ 

    Guess because that issue, later models (including vixen SP-DX, GP, GP-DX...and clones ) have already an screw fixing in front lile this one;



  3. Sure, you can turn it around, but look at the worm in case is not damaged. Sometimes bending was the result of over tightening de mesh... When i got mine (second had too, many years ago ) it was also bent. So I've replaced it. You can try that "fix" or just  get a replacement.  All depends if it will be for visual only or AP

    Recently one of mines had the worm a bit bumped.. looking closer.



  4. 21 hours ago, Pixies said:

    Yey! The polar scope illuminator still works!


    The old battery was still in there. Lots of blue fuzzy corrosion to remove (and my fingers are still a bit 'stingy')

    A quick question about the mount, and I can't see anything in the manual. What is this knob for?:


    That black knob is for fixing the latitude. But I've found it very ineffective, and to me it also producing some tilt to the axis in the mount. 

    It would be the old version of the nowadays screw on front that stops the whole mount to move  in latitude. 

    In that post you mentioned ive fone a mod for it. Is not great, but linda works better than this 

    The tripod is lile mine, but yours is taller : ) 

    about the bent part, I think you could get a compatible eq3 or eq5 psrt for it. 


    • Thanks 1
  5. On 14/01/2021 at 02:23, Eryk Mozejko said:

    Looking at the photo il guess the material is either a PE or PTFE. drop it in water , if it sinks its PTFE, floats is a PE.

    probably the best thing would be get a 0.5mm sheet of PTFE and cut 3 or 4 bearings so you can try them stacked like a shim to get the right results. 

    I would think !.5 mm would be the right thickness as the part number listed is the same. The end ring on the shaft should dictate how much gap is taken up to get both bearings to mate with each surface.

    At least with shimming layers of 0.5mm sheet you can experiment with which gets you the best results. otherwise by a small ball of a putty like substance. Something like Blu-Tak or what ever equivalent is available locally to you (its a product used to stick things like posters on walls temporaily. usually obtained from office stationary suppliers. stick the ball up against where the bearing should go. then fit the shaft in place without turning it. then pull it apart. hopefully the putty with have bee squashed into the thickness of the smallest gap between the two surfaces the bearing is to fit between.


    Hi Eryk, 


    sorry for the delayed reply. I finally gotten PTFE washers from UK , but weather here in spain has been awfull so couldn't test much till recently . 

    I have ordered 1mm 0.5mm and 0.25mm . and played with it a bit, but indeed in Dec with the addition of the washer, tracking kind of improved a bit, but specially dithering has had a massive improvement. 

    Attached are PHD2 logs from a session from last month. Same night,  just different parts of the sky (South-East and North-Zenith)  dithering movement and recovery was pretty fast (before it took around 2minutes or more.. ) backlash seemed to improve too :) I don't know exactly why Polar Alignment value changed throught the night..perhaps flexure of some kind , no idea. 


    I like the idea of the return screw you have to stop the RA body from slipping in its altitude adjustment. by taking off the plate 1-9 there should be two small grub screws, silver in colour now visible in the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. tightening these applied pressure in order to help stop the whole mount from tilting on its altitude axis on its own. But these two screws also stopped that side of the part 1-2 from clamping part 1-3 properly from both sides. Which denied the mount its full capacity to carry heavier equipment.


    That is something too...the screw I've added somehow helps, but not a lot. I was thinking if there would be a way of changing the whole latitude adjustment base . The silver colour screws you've mention, I have adjusted a bit but as you say, too much will refrain the mount from moving..and I have to Polar Align often since the mount is outside, but the telescope I mount it each time and it might move. 


    Eitherway, the washers did it's job. Indeed it was weird that it was missing in both axis... in DEC I think I've ended up with 0.50mm. And also added one to RA.  Still a bit more to tune up but so far, so good :)


    Guiding first.jpg

    Guiding second.jpg

  6. I own and currently using the QHY8L  with optolong L-pro filter. 

    And I am pretty happy with it. Bought it used also, but I paid a lot less since when I got it it wasn't working, then sent it myself to qhy and they fixed it

    no problems since.  As comments avobe mentioned, depends on your focal lenght... but I mainly use it with my Borg 89ED focal lenght 600mm, a bit undersampled, but doesn't look bad either. 

    One thing that  I don't like much is the TEC regulator, DC201, which is separate from the main camera, which adds another cable and so on. 



    • Like 2
  7. I own a Borg 89ED and quite happy with it..now that I've changed the focuser. 

    I'm using it for visual grab and go and also for imaging, and I think optically is good.

    The one you mention is fluorite, so probably will be better. 

    I really like the way it can be taken appart in few pieces for better transport.

    BUT ,  the draw tube kind of system, even though it makes it easierto make it compact

    and portable, is horrible.. and not very reliable.  I think the 72FL doesn't have this,

    and probably goes with a good rack and pinion or crayford focuser.  

    Also is very light weight! 


    • Like 2
  8. Last try! .... unless I can come up with something very different! haha 

    Again thank you for let us play with this wonderfull set of files :D hope some day I can capture something this awesome myself! 

    This was with new H-a v2 file, RGB legacy  in Compose module in StarTools v1.7 . Not layering, just straight blending of red + h-a. then

    compose as usual. 

    I still think there is some faint nebulosity around so tried to pull it out and like it this way : ) 




  9. This one is as challenging as fun!!!  

    This is my first go, perhaps went too far with sharpening, but will try once again! 

    I thought it was a gradient too, but then I've realised this is around 100hour integration time..and it could be nebulosity? So I've processed it this way. 

    StarTools 1.7, Compose module. Merged Halpha + Red channel, and wiped cropped all files before loading them in the module, then sort of normal workflow

    finished in LightRoom. 


    08032021-M33 LRhaGB Done-3.jpg

    • Like 1
  10. 6 hours ago, Dougie Smart said:

    Thanks for your reply and advice Neko.

    In order to remove the Vixen polar scope, would I be correct that the grub screws need to be loosened first, then the polar scope unscrewed?

    I am waiting for an Allan key (wrench key) to be delivered so that I can remove the scope from my mount.

    I hope you can further advise.

    Thanks agian,


    ummm, maybe I missunderstood. You want to change only the reticle? 

    I've changed the whole thing for one of this 


    What I did was just unscrew the whole thing out, and put this one. You don't need allen key for this. Just grab it firmly with your hand and unscrew it. or at least I didnt need to unscrew anything, And I took the mount a part few times...

    That's all. I had to collimate mine. So probably you'll have to do it too. 

    22 minutes ago, Froeng said:

    Hi Dougie,

    i have used the below in my 30+ years old SP-DX and it works perfectly.



    That's way to expensive... 

    https://teleskop-austria.at/polarHMRet#m   this would work and is more intuitive 

    @Dougie Smart if you wan to change only the glass reticle, then this one would do. If all the rest is OK :)


  11. 32 minutes ago, Tomatobro said:

    I'm aware of this. I followed the instructions for the Hotech ff on my Borg. Just wondered the effect. In the site they show those graphs, and according to it would distort all the field ?  

    Guess a good way to test it would be modifying the distance in my Hotech+borg combination to see the effect.   But weather is bad enough for long to waste next clear night on this 🤣🤣 

    Thanks for your answer anyway :)

  12. Hi folks, 

    I wonder what happens if one can not reach the ideal back focus distance with a field flattener? 

    For instance, my QHY8L has 20.1mm back focus, but the Evoguide 50ED FF requires 17.5mm  

    then, how the images would look like? those 3mm of the sensor being too close to the FF would it 

    make it not possible to focus? or will focus but wouldn't correct the whole field?  

    Withouth the FF  I can reach focus but maybe about 50% of the frame (or more? ) is distorted, obviously

    So, what's the theory behind it? Not reaching the ideal backfocus makes the whole field distorted or

    just can not correct a certain % ? 

    Sorry if that is a too dumb question ^^;  


  13. 1 hour ago, Gerr said:

    Hi, I have an astro modded 650D Canon DSLR and I used the Optolong Pro filter in imaging M42 night before last.

    My skies are Bortle 6 and I was able to take 64x40 sec subs (ISO 800) of this Nebula using SW200P Reflector.

    I am not experienced enough in commenting about filters yet but maybe my image can help in your discussions?

    I do have the L-eNhance filter too and would anyone recommend using this in combination with my clip in L Pro on an astro modded DSLR???? I'm thinking probably not as the L-eNhance is essentially a dual broadband filter and this would  limit the usefulness of the L Pro in the same imaging train?.


    I wouldn't put one in front of the other..wouldn't make much sense. Instead you could do some captures with L-pro and some with :L-enhance or L-extreme, then combine them (which is what I'd like to do when I can afford to get one of those two )  
    guess you can extract both red and blue channels (Ha and Oiii/hb ) and make sort of HaRed+Green+Oii/HbBlue 
    I assume that's how should be to add narrow band to RGB, but since I can't try it can't be sure haha 



  14. 1 minute ago, Rustang said:

    What camera was he using, I doubt it was a DSLR, which is where I feel it has little or no advantage. It has been mentioned online from  well known guy in this hobby that the extreme isant really suited to older DSLR's which is where I feel the lack of noticeable difference is coming from. I don't know everything and I'm just going on what I've seen around  that's all. 

    I see, well, if is specifically on DSLR then I don't know.. would depends also if it is modified or not. But to what point would it be that different ?  The fact is that it cuts out more "unnecessary " light, so it contrasts more those specific bands. 
    as I understand anyway... I can't tell either. I have L-pro, and a friend of mine has the L-enhance , I had a chance to process some of his files to see what comes out.  but then again he uses a asi294Mc , not DSLR. 
    Did you check Astrobin for examples on DLSR + L-extreme? 

    will have a look too ^^ 


    • Like 1
  15. Hi,, I know it is an old post, but I was looking for this info!

    Although, one thing... the original Toshiba ER6V  is 46.6mm, and the socket where it goes measures 48.8mm.. 

    those batteries all are around 50mm or more.. how do you fit them ? Because I tried one 14500 and it was too long

    so didn't get it . And since the electronics goes closed up in a sandwich fashion...should be same size,right? 

    how did you do it? 

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