Neko

Hi, did you try changing the motor value (ranges from 1 to 3 ) in the settings ? Regards, Carles.

Hi Steve, thank you, I have seen that review, but he is using a small guide scope though.. couldn't find any other (well found one in japanese a while back but was similar) Thanks for your help Regards Carles.

Hi all, I have recently bought an OAG to use with my SCT 8" with 6.3 reducer, and the only guide camera I've got, that usually use with Evoguide50ED, is an old (first gen) QHY5m camera... Having tried that on the mentioned setup with the OAG, found it hard to get stars, and also hard to focus, So I was looking into an affordable alternative and saw that sv905c (to also use as planetary, occasionally) So I was wondering if any of you got experience with this camera, specially for guiding. Haven't been able to find many reviews (actually just 2) or opinions. I am aware (or maybe just a wrong guess) that any present/modern camera will be more senstivie and thus being able to get more stars than my old QHY5, but just wondering for affordable alternatives. Interested on the "mini" format as then I could use the mini helical focuser that comes with the Askar OAG, as with the QHY5 I have to remove it and it makes things harder too. thanks in advance! Carles.

Not that it slips.. but sometimes when changing direction it might move; itbhappen to me that PHD2 reporting. polar alignment value and a different one when changing direction or area of sky. Hence why.. What's the LX belt ? I have ss2kPC on my SP, but was thinking on modding with belt. As a Japanese friend who has done it with GP told me, it is hard to get proper tension, as it doesn't have a good way to do it in that mount. Would like to know your experience with belts in an SP

Yes, I've taken down the whole mount few times. That indexed plate limits to some degrees the amount of latitude to be sdjusted. If doesn't reach, needs to loosen the main screw, move the outer plate that keeps presure with an Spring, then tight again. Still , if you had adjusted your polar alignment with polar scope, and when youre ready , tighten that black knob , you'll see polaris position shifting.. even if you just stand at the back of the mount and tight that knob, you'll see a tilt. Since I discovered that, i leave it loose, and insted installed that screw in front. 🤷🏻‍♂️ Guess because that issue, later models (including vixen SP-DX, GP, GP-DX...and clones ) have already an screw fixing in front lile this one;

Sure, you can turn it around, but look at the worm in case is not damaged. Sometimes bending was the result of over tightening de mesh... When i got mine (second had too, many years ago ) it was also bent. So I've replaced it. You can try that "fix" or just get a replacement. All depends if it will be for visual only or AP Recently one of mines had the worm a bit bumped.. looking closer.

https://teleskop-austria.com/WormEQ3#m You could measure yoirs and check with the shop, but considering that eq3, eq5 snd others are copies of vixen polaris /super polaris/great polaris, i think it could be compatible

That black knob is for fixing the latitude. But I've found it very ineffective, and to me it also producing some tilt to the axis in the mount. It would be the old version of the nowadays screw on front that stops the whole mount to move in latitude. In that post you mentioned ive fone a mod for it. Is not great, but linda works better than this The tripod is lile mine, but yours is taller : ) about the bent part, I think you could get a compatible eq3 or eq5 psrt for it.

also you've got the unofficial manual in German, English and Spanish (this last one, translated by myself 😛 ) it is a very complete, well structured manual, very helpful. you can download it from "download" section, or the Eng version straight from here https://www.startools.org/downloads/unofficial-english-manual- ^^ Carles.

Hi Eryk, sorry for the delayed reply. I finally gotten PTFE washers from UK , but weather here in spain has been awfull so couldn't test much till recently . I have ordered 1mm 0.5mm and 0.25mm . and played with it a bit, but indeed in Dec with the addition of the washer, tracking kind of improved a bit, but specially dithering has had a massive improvement. Attached are PHD2 logs from a session from last month. Same night, just different parts of the sky (South-East and North-Zenith) dithering movement and recovery was pretty fast (before it took around 2minutes or more.. ) backlash seemed to improve too I don't know exactly why Polar Alignment value changed throught the night..perhaps flexure of some kind , no idea. That is something too...the screw I've added somehow helps, but not a lot. I was thinking if there would be a way of changing the whole latitude adjustment base . The silver colour screws you've mention, I have adjusted a bit but as you say, too much will refrain the mount from moving..and I have to Polar Align often since the mount is outside, but the telescope I mount it each time and it might move. Eitherway, the washers did it's job. Indeed it was weird that it was missing in both axis... in DEC I think I've ended up with 0.50mm. And also added one to RA. Still a bit more to tune up but so far, so good

I own and currently using the QHY8L with optolong L-pro filter. And I am pretty happy with it. Bought it used also, but I paid a lot less since when I got it it wasn't working, then sent it myself to qhy and they fixed it no problems since. As comments avobe mentioned, depends on your focal lenght... but I mainly use it with my Borg 89ED focal lenght 600mm, a bit undersampled, but doesn't look bad either. One thing that I don't like much is the TEC regulator, DC201, which is separate from the main camera, which adds another cable and so on. Carles.

I own a Borg 89ED and quite happy with it..now that I've changed the focuser. I'm using it for visual grab and go and also for imaging, and I think optically is good. The one you mention is fluorite, so probably will be better. I really like the way it can be taken appart in few pieces for better transport. BUT , the draw tube kind of system, even though it makes it easierto make it compact and portable, is horrible.. and not very reliable. I think the 72FL doesn't have this, and probably goes with a good rack and pinion or crayford focuser. Also is very light weight!

Yes, but the cost is about twice as the sw one, and also there's no availability so far for starizona one..

Last try for now Similar as before, but with a more conservative process (less HDR in the core..) and different color StarTools and LightRoom. one with aggressive noise reduction and one without hope you like! Really impressive data to work with!

Second try This time StarTools 1.7 only. Similar workflow but less aggressive and cropped a bit. colors came out better too So didn't think the need of exporting to lightroom this time

As always, thank you for such awesome data!! here goes my first try StarTools 7 and Lightroom

Last try! .... unless I can come up with something very different! haha Again thank you for let us play with this wonderfull set of files hope some day I can capture something this awesome myself! This was with new H-a v2 file, RGB legacy in Compose module in StarTools v1.7 . Not layering, just straight blending of red + h-a. then compose as usual. I still think there is some faint nebulosity around so tried to pull it out and like it this way : )

Second Try! Almost same process as before StarTools 1.7 and Lightroom.

This one is as challenging as fun!!! This is my first go, perhaps went too far with sharpening, but will try once again! I thought it was a gradient too, but then I've realised this is around 100hour integration time..and it could be nebulosity? So I've processed it this way. StarTools 1.7, Compose module. Merged Halpha + Red channel, and wiped cropped all files before loading them in the module, then sort of normal workflow finished in LightRoom.