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matt_baker

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Everything posted by matt_baker

  1. matt_baker
    I've measured the t2 adapter depth and it's 8.5mm, which goes in line with the 46.5mm flange distance to equal 55mm backfocus. What I think I may do is drill another hole on the focuser for an extra thumbscrew to make sure it's in there tight. Although I use a laser collimator, I've recently read that they need collimating themselves, so I'm going to make a jig and collimate the laser I'll update you on the situation once I can image again Matt
  2. matt_baker
    Actually, I think toward the center of the image it's okay but it starts to go funny just out from the center. And yes this is the MPCC mk.3 with the 130PDS and a Nikon D5300 I've attached the raw file if you'd like to take a look for yourself Matt L_0057_ISO800_120s__NA.NEF
  3. matt_baker
    Okay, so here's some pre-context. I went out last night to try APT for the first time, along with plate solving to make my life easy and so I could stay in the warm while it does its thing. This took me a while to figure out but once the ball got rolling, it was running perfectly. I start running the sequence on M13 but noticed something off about the stars. They all had a distinct shape to them. Would this be down to poor collimation, poor guiding, differential flexure? I have a feeling it may possibly be down to my laser collimator, since the laser probably isn't collimated itself. Could anyone help diagnose the issue?
  4. matt_baker
    This'll save me so much time, especially when it comes to meridian flips. Merdian flips + alignment added up to about 40 minutes in wasted time I could've used This really helps a lot, I'll be sure to use this when I go to capture the Iris Nebula, which is hopefully my next target
  5. matt_baker
    So all I literally have to do is: Polar Align Load up APT and PHD Use PointCraft to slew to a bright star and focus Slew to target and solve to centre Start Guiding Start Imaging Is this pretty much right?
  6. matt_baker
    I use an EQDirect cable straight from the handset to my PC Then I'd normally use EQMod to align and Carte Du Ciel to sync coords I'm wanting to use APT with a D5300 that I know supports it and want to plate solve to make alignment quick and easy
  7. matt_baker
    If I setup my mount through Stellarium and have APT alongside, does this mean I won't have to have EQMod for the alignment? I can just slew to a random bright star and plate solve it to the center, then sync, focus and slew to my intended target and do another plate solve to get it centered Is this correct?
  8. matt_baker
    I used 45x180s exposures along with 20 darks, flats, bias frames DSS for stacking I did use PixInsight for post-processing however since changing from PS, as it helps loads. So unfortunately I can't help you there but I know Trevor from AstroBackyard does really good photoshop processing tutorials. If you would like to know how I went about processing in PixInsight, then just ask As Dave said, Noel's actions will help greatly and it is worth the investment 100%
  9. matt_baker
    I can agree with this for sure. One of the reasons I got a 130P-DS was seeing a few of Uranium's images and thought there's no way such a cheap scope could grab stuff like that. I'm more of a lurker and don't post too much but here's my latest M81 M82 pic here. I can post acquisition if people want but it's late aha. I also need to use APT for dithering because I'm hating this raining noise
  10. matt_baker
    Are all 130's like this is you don't shave a bit off the focuser?
  11. matt_baker
    M42 Orion Nebula Frames: 41×180″ & 20x30" 20 Darks/Flats/Bias In my personal opinion, I do prefer the core being blown out as HDR MultiscaleTransform just wasn't dealing with it well and it preserves contrast. Overall it took me about 20 hours from setting up and taking images, to doing iterations of this in PixInsight and finishing. Once I get a modded DSLR, I'll be sure to add some Ha data to this. Any CC or comments are appreciated Matt
  12. matt_baker
    Just out of curiosity, what was the exposure time for the Crab and Eagle nebula's. Also, they're fantastic!
  13. matt_baker
    If I'm honest, I think that taking 10 minute subs with a non-cooled camera is a bit overkill and will bring in a lot of thermal noise, due to the sensor increasing temperature over time. I reckon more 5 minute subs will do better but that's just my opinion If the camera was cooled, then yes of course take long exposures.
  14. matt_baker
    Double Cluster in Perseus. 130PDS, HEQ5 and Nikon D3200 48/60x90s subs + flats, dark and bias. Was pretty windy last night so 12 subs got thrown out. Guiding was okay at best, about 0.80RMS total It was a 63% moon, so I decided to picture this jewel box of a cluster instead of re-doing my Pleiades pic
  15. matt_baker
    Update 2: Went in lightroom again to boost contrast and saturation and improve details
  16. matt_baker
    If you have lightroom, it's very good at removing leftover colour noise that's harder to get rid of in PS. I've done a quick edit on your first one here If you look closely especially on M110, you can notice the difference
  17. matt_baker
    No problem, I look forward to seeing what you've come up with
  18. matt_baker
    Went into lightroom and managed to eliminate quite a bit of the colour noise and increased clarity + saturation
  19. matt_baker
    I would imagine so as it would amplify the noise to a greater extent. Right now I can't use APT as my Nikon isn't supported but as soon as I get my hands on a Canon 450D modified, I'll be sure to dither every couple of subs and I currently haven't built up a dark library so I'm relying on doing them after the subs
  20. matt_baker
    For 60 minutes that seems like a great result. If it helps I used this tutorial to process mine http://www.myastronomyjournal.com/DSLR-AIP/C002-M31-Walkthrough/
  21. matt_baker
    I did actually waste about 30-40 minutes after realising the guiding was failing and trails were everywhere near the time of the meridian flip. Once I had sent a slew command on EQMod, I then had to take time re-centering as best as I could in the frame before continuing. I guess we can't have everything. I would've spent the extra time gathering a few more darks to lower the noise further
  22. matt_baker
    Took this last night and processed it this afternoon. 130PDS HEQ5 Pro Nikon D3200 120MC with 50mm Guide Scope Badder mk.iii coma corrector 24x300s Lights with 7x120s and 5x60s for the core all at ISO 800 5 Darks for each 25 Bias and 25 Flats PHD 2 and EQMod for controlling and guiding Stacked in DSS Processed in Photoshop CC 2015 This is the first time I've ever attempted Andromeda and I'm very pleased with the result I might possibly grab a couple hours of more data in the future due to the noise which I tried my best to minimize in PS using Astronomy tools action set
  23. matt_baker
    I'm aiming for Andromeda galaxy on Thursday night and I was wondering if there's any tips on photographing this as I have never done before. I've very recently got brand new second hand equipment, 130PDS + HEQ5 Pro I've heard that Andromeda is a very HDR target and try not to overexpose the core and get the faint dust lanes. I was thinking maybe doing 20 ish 5 minute exposures but should I do a few shorter ones to not blow out the core? I was also wondering how I should go about stacking with different exposure times as I don't have PixInsight and can't do HDR Composition. Can this be achieved by having different groups in DSS?
  24. matt_baker
    Went out last night and added another hour of data for a total of 2 hours Much less noisy with the extra data and I could bring out more without clipping too far and not having extensive noise reduction Much more pleased with this result Matt
  25. matt_baker
    I've managed to edit it slightly in lightroom by upping the contrast and highlights to bring out more of the galaxy
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