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JR1987

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JR1987 last won the day on January 9 2016

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About JR1987

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  1. Since I moved into a flat its not quite as easy to get out and image these days.. But this past weeks fantastically clear skies made it easy to not risk any wasted journeys or setting up, for the first time in a year! Anyway, I went for the Heart Nebula this time and I got 50x300 workable lights that didnt go wrong.. HOWEVER the last evening of shooting I accidentally cut off the top of the nebula in the framing. So my question is, What is the best way in PI to stack these subs? Create 2 separate stacks one with the correct framing and one without and somehow merge them later? Or stack all frames using the good framing as the reference and edit out the horrible stacking/alignment effects at the top edges? Or maybe something else entirely? Its roughly 33 subs correct framing, 17 badly framed. Im a little rusty in my processing, and now only use PI. (I found PS was easier for this sort of thing)
  2. I found the exact same thing when I started using Pixinsight. I could never get my colour calibration right in photoshop. Pixinsight it was instant.
  3. Download the free trial of Gradient Xterminator and do a youtube search on how to use it. Its very simple and will help you remove your gradients.
  4. Ok cool.. So now id ask why would anyone bother doing anything over 2 minutes? Surely there must be some advantage to doing 15 to 30 minute subs.. or people wouldnt do them due to the risk of error being hugely increased with subs that long..
  5. Is that definitely true though? I thought if your stacking lets say, 2 minute subs of a Deep sky object.. youll pick up all the main areas no problems.. but the fainter areas usually on the outer areas of perhaps a nebula or galaxy may only get picked up every few frames or so, therefore being recognised as noise in the stacking process because they are not in the majority of the subs.
  6. Dark frames, yes at 300 seconds. and the same temperature. Bias no, they are done at the fastest exposure setting your camera has. very quick to take. Theres lots of good info on all the different types of frames online/on this very forum.
  7. I image from outer London in my back garden and I manage 5 minute subs at ISO400. at 800 I cant go over 2 1/2 minutes really. But I do use a decent LP filter though, without that I bet I wouldnt get over a minute.
  8. silly question.. but have you calibrated you RGB?
  9. Yes these were added purley for cosmetic purposes.. Carbonis tools in photoshop has a few different options. I preferred it with the spikes so I ran with it
  10. Ah yes! thanks for spotting that. obviously I missed that when getting rid of the edges that come with alignment. Ill sort that out!
  11. This week after 4 weeks patience I finally acquired my new 80ED refractor. Specifically, an Esprit 80ED. Been waiting to give the rosette a try for months. Quite pleased how it came out, especially as I dont have a Bahtinov mask for it yet. Focusing was a bit fiddly. 39x300sec Lights, 30xdarks 30xbias Anyway, here it is.. Hope you guys like it! http://www.astrobin.com/full/238939/0/ p.s had to use a link because the forum does strange things to the image!
  12. I learnt processing along to a few different youtube tutorials. If youve chosen a popular target you can usually type in e.g "M31 pixinsight" and there will be people who have processed it and explained it throughout. set it up on another screen and work along with it. I find it easier than reading step by step instructions
  13. Ive been using photoshop for just under a year and about a month ago decided to check out pixinsight. And personally I think thats when my processing actually started showing up some good images. However, I find optimally I really like to jump back and forth from PI to PS and vice versa. I always start with Pixinsight.. all the calibrating, noise reduction and the initial stretches etc. then move into photoshop and extract a luminance layer and work on that, plus all the layer masks etc. It feels more native in Photoshop although I am new to Pixinsight and still have lots I dont know about it. But It definitely comes into good use!
  14. Yea, Look into guiding first, if you havent already got that going. Also with a budget of around £1k your looking at quite a small sensor on your ccd, that combined with your focal length of the 150p is going to be a very small field of view. Which will mean for alot of nebula you will have to construct mosaics, which will probably be counter productive to your short time contstraints. Decent CCDs arent cheap by any stretch of the imagination. There is nothing wrong with DSLR imaging. Some of the shots people take are amazing and alot are quite happy using just DSLR. P.s if your even thinking about ccd imaging...theres no way you should be doing it on an EQ5. Mount is the most important part of an imaging set up. Make sure that is a very large chunk of your budget
  15. It was just about 2 hours 50 in total. ISO400, 5 minute subs. You could probably get something along those lines with less subs but the more the better. you cant ever really have too much data!
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