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daveg

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    Birr Ireland

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  1. Hi Paul Looks like youve sorta cracked that mosaic business Have you decided what to use for the eclipse yet? Dave Gradwell
  2. AR11271 through a rare break in the clouds, 5 mins later the thunder heads rolled in PSTB120 at f/12 (1500mm FL) DMK21 Dave Gradwell
  3. yes of course Stu Thnx Mark DG
  4. Thnx Stu My HA setup is a pst mod using the PST box) with a sky watcher 120mm achro and Baader 130mm DERF White light is the skywatcher and a Baader herscel wedge Camera is a DMK21 Processed in Regi 6 and Photoshop SOme basic tips- Try and image as early as possible, balance between the sun being high enough and before the ground starts heating up and throwing off the seeing Focus focus focus, take your time, get to know what a focused image looks like on the screen, when its wobbling around its not as easy as it sounds. I use linked wavelets in Regi6 and normally just play with number 1&2 As the sun is so dynamic always post your imgs on SGL regardless of the quality as you may have picked up something no one else has. hth Anything more specific feel free.... Dave Gradwell
  5. Some images from the last time I saw the Sun during this woeful summer
  6. daveg

    solar

    Glad youre enjoying the Sun. Watch out for prominences on the disc too - they will appear as long black "snakes" called filaments. Thanx for keeping us up to date still clouded out here in Ireland David Gradwell
  7. HI George 10mm binos should be fine for seeing sunspots. Theres no hard and fast rule as regards optimal size etc. In general make the image as big as possible without losing detail in the image. most solar observers use 60mm refractors (these are actually very cheap and dont need to be of great optical quality) & project an image 6inches diameter. Put your binos on a tripod & if youre any way handy try to rig up some way of attaching the card to them. Great way to start is by visiting the SOHO telescope website The Very Latest SOHO Images or spaceweather site SpaceWeather.com -- News and information about meteor showers, solar flares, auroras, and near-Earth asteroids to see if there are any spots on the sun and then try to pick them out with your binos. You can then judge for yourself the best set-up. Unfortuneatley the Sun is extremely quiet at the moment and susnpots are rare, so dont be surprised if weeks go by without any activity. Hope this helps & lets know how you get on or if youve any more questions. David Gradwell btw is that your 172??
  8. Well done Kev considering the conditions. Is that a new area of activity coming onto the disc or the remnance of AR1032 david
  9. Hi Janos Its a modified single stack PST. There is much info on the www about the process. google "PST mod". Glad you liked the image. David Gradwell
  10. Some geat detail Janos especially considering the conditions. Must try my modded 350D with my H-Alpha scope. David Gradwell
  11. Thanx Kev I must try out the everbrite. Helen you're obviously a lucky charm for the Sun please keep observing - Youve woken the Sun up! Heres those 2 active regions in dreadful conditions http://stargazerslounge.com/imaging-lunar-solar/91654-ar11032-ar11033-nov-20th-finally.html#post1325414 David
  12. OK here it is 2 days of processing later. With the Sun 20 degrees above the horizon and force 6 winds AR11032 & AR11033. PST-B90 f/20 DMK21. A 12 pane mosaic captured over one hour. David Gradwell
  13. Great shots Kev! Looks like theres quite a bit of activity on the disc now. (Havent seen the Sun in over week!) How are these orientated - just that Id like to have a go a that Prom at the bottom right (is that SW of disc) Thanx David
  14. Hi Helen, If your obs doesnt give you enough shade do as Brian says or I have a piece of black cloth i bought from a local dressmakers and use that as a shroud (during the summer it sure does get hot under there!!) When I used a webcam I would brighten the image (incr gain) till it started to bleach out (saturate) then came back a bit. Your much better off, especially with H-Alpha, to use a dedicated camera like a DMK21 because - The CCD chip being mono is much more sensitive to H_Alpha They take a lot of frames very quickly (called frame rate or frames per second fps) which means you can catch moments of good "seeing". The control software gives you more control over the image. As regards the 2.5x - this time of year the Sun is very low so focusing is going to be difficult anyway. Increasing the mag MAY make this worse. One thing about images and especially solar images - ALWAYS post your image on SGL no matter what you think of them. The Sun can change in a matter of minutes and in the little clear spots of weather, you have may have captured something no one else has. David Hope this helps & keep us up to date with your progress DG
  15. Hi Helen Great to hear about the activity. heres some imaging tips for the Sun.... Use something like a webcam or DMK camera to capture a video (AVI) with hundreds of frames. Use Registax to stack and sharpen the images. when focusing use either the edge of the disc or a halpha feature (prom, AR, filament etc) Feel free to post or PM me with any Qs you have. David Gradwell
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