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MarkyD

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About MarkyD

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  • Birthday 21/04/64

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  1. It'll be fine. Insulation for 230V cables is rated up to 1000V
  2. CEF sell it by the meter. http://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/categories/cables-and-accessories-swa-xlpe-pvc-armoured-cables
  3. I used these for my Bee Hive monitoring setup. It is the 40W panel with a 12Ah 12V SLA. My system takes approx 150mA and this struggles in the winter to keep the battery topped up for an overnight run in the winter. Use one of the online calculators to determine the size of panel http://hurricanemodels.co.uk/engine/shop/product/cf030/Ripmax+Acro+Wot+Mk2+Foam-E?gclid=CLid3aSBp9MCFVRAGwod2wwHdw To charge multiple get an MPPT charger as this will allow you to connect multiple batteries and this type of charger will maximize the energy available from the panel http://www.sunstore.co.uk/MPPT-Charge-Controllers/ You can't mix the types on one charger. You need to set up whether it's Gel, SLA or Flood as they all have differing charging characteristics but you can connect multiple chargers to one panel
  4. One of the guys down our flying field has one of these. Pretty neat bit of kit
  5. If the power to the shed is already protected by a 30mA RCD you don't need one in the shed. It called discrimination.
  6. The RA axis bearing preload should be hand tight and not use a wrench. You only need enough to just take the play out as any force will stall the motors once loaded up with gear. They always do them up to tight at the factory
  7. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-100V-10A-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Blue-Red-LED-Amp-Dual-Digital-Volt-Meter-Gauge-/272305346282?hash=item3f66a9d6ea%3Ag%3Au9gAAOSw7s5XhQNk http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-100A-LCD-Volt-Current-KWh-Watt-Panel-Power-Meter-Ammeter-Voltmeter-Multimeter-/111810074446?hash=item1a0866574e%3Ag%3Al6MAAOSw9mFWMwk~
  8. This one http://www.ebay.co.uk/p/lcd-ac-80-260v-0-100a-digital-voltage-volt-current-meter-panel-power-energy-zg/2004995044 and there are loads more http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Test-Equipment-Panel-Meters/58278/bn_16570756/i.html
  9. You need to remove the red bung pronto. Why didn't you run the all of the Negative cables to the battery terminal rather than have a floating join with the screw. They also look like 40A fuses (Orange) and I would have run a thicker cable from the Battery + to the fuse box Other than that it looks nice and easy to use
  10. This was taken with a 200P-DS and Canon 1D MkIII (Whirlpool Galaxy)
  11. 0.75 meters is deep enough for SWA. Lay a bed of sharp sand in the bottom, lay the cable then another layer of sand. Run a length of yellow danger cable tape over or even better use some of those roofing tiles you have to the side to cover then the tape. Then back fill. Make sure you leave far more cable at the ends than you think you will need as mistakes will be hard to rectify
  12. The connectors are rated at 5Amp so will be OK. For the current draw take the wattage of the dew bands and divide by 12 to get the current I(amps) = W(watts)/V(volts) ie. for a 20Watt band I = 20/12 I = 1.67Amps at 100% power The canon, and guide cam will take little current so allow 0.5A for each as a safety net. The manufacturer may have the specs for the focuser. Worst case is when stalled as this will ramp up the current momentarily. The HEQ5 specs say 12V 2Amp so allow 3amp to be safe. I would also add a few amps on top for future additions
  13. To calculate what Ah battery you will need you need to know the current draw of all your equipment. You can then approximate how long a battery will last from a full charge A 12Ah battery will supply 12amps for 1 hour, 6 amps for 2 hours, 3 amps for 4 hours and so on. The time will be shorter than this due to loses I use screw lock audio connectors for my equipment available from Maplins http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-2-way-audio-locking-connector-chassis-plug-fm50e A battery is self regulating. If all your equipment can handle up to 14.5 Volts which they usually can if designed to connect to a 12V battery. 12V is listed as the nominal voltage. 14.5 is max voltage when fully charged but very quickly drops under load. If any equipment uses less voltage ie. 5V you will need to drop the voltage. A switched mode regulator is more efficient but some stuff doesn't like PWM power. A linear regulator is clean but loses alot of power in heat to drop the voltage Any charger designed for the type of battery will do. My solar kit uses an MPPT charger. My bike uses an Optimate
  14. I use this void/subroutine on an Arduino. If you can make sense of it. The whole code measures ambient humidity and temperature and the temperature of the specific sensor (secondary mirror in this case - DB18B20 stuck to the rear of the mirror). The dew heater is usually powered at 10 - 20% power for most of the time so the mirror never gets to the dewpoint int getpwr( float channeltemp, int trackmode ) { int pwrlevel = 0; if ( trackmode == DEWPOINT ) { if ( channeltemp >= (dew_point + 6.0 + dewconfig.offsetval) ) { pwrlevel = 0; } else if ( channeltemp >= (dew_point + 5.0 + dewconfig.offsetval) ) { pwrlevel = 10; } else if ( channeltemp >= (dew_point + 4.0 + dewconfig.offsetval) ) { pwrlevel = 20; } else if ( channeltemp >= (dew_point + 3.0 + dewconfig.offsetval) ) { pwrlevel = 50; } else if ( channeltemp >= (dew_point + 2.0 + dewconfig.offsetval) ) { pwrlevel = 75; } else pwrlevel = 100; } else if ( trackmode == AMBIENT) { // assume trackmode is AMBIENT if ( channeltemp <= (tval - 9.0 + dewconfig.offsetval) ) { // is the OTA temperature way below ambient pwrlevel = 100; // then set the pwr level to 100% } else if ( channeltemp <= (tval - 7.0 + dewconfig.offsetval) ) { // is the OTA temperature 7 degrees or less below ambient pwrlevel = 75; // then set the pwr level to 75% } else if ( channeltemp <= (tval - 5.0 + dewconfig.offsetval) ) { // is the OTA temperature 5 degrees or less below ambient pwrlevel = 50; // then set the pwr level to 50% } else if ( channeltemp <= (tval - 3.0 + dewconfig.offsetval) ) { // is the OTA temperature 3 degrees or less below ambient pwrlevel = 20; // then set the pwr level to 20% } else if ( channeltemp <= (tval - 1.0 + dewconfig.offsetval) ) { // is the OTA temperature 1 degrees or less below ambient pwrlevel = 10; // then set the pwr level to 10% } else pwrlevel = 0; // if ota close to ambient then pwr level to 0% } // end of if trackmode else if ( trackmode == HALFWAY) { // assume trackmode is MIDPOINT if ( channeltemp >= (tval - (((tval - (int)dew_point) / 2) - 0) + dewconfig.offsetval)) { pwrlevel = 0; } else if ( channeltemp >= (tval - (((tval - (int)dew_point) / 2) - 2) + dewconfig.offsetval)) { pwrlevel = 20; } else if ( channeltemp >= (tval - (((tval - (int)dew_point) / 2) - 4) + dewconfig.offsetval)) { pwrlevel = 50; } else if ( channeltemp >= (tval - (((tval - (int)dew_point) / 2) - 6) + dewconfig.offsetval)) { pwrlevel = 100; } else pwrlevel = 100; // its lower than midpoint - 7 } // end of if trackmode else pwrlevel = 0; // set pwrlevel to 0 if there is an unknown tracking mode return pwrlevel; } Credit to Robert Brown for this snippet of code Here is the idea I heavily modified for my own needs to include intervalometer, LCD touch screen, voltage monitors etc contained in one box all running on a Mege2560 https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinonanodewcontrollerpro/files/v300/Documentation/
  15. You can use the same terminals to power and charge. You can use 4mm banana plugs and panel mount sockets or I use these for my connections rated at 5A http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-2-way-audio-locking-connector-line-socket-fk22y