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About zfedoran

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  1. If you have the dexterity to successfully debayer a sensor, then maybe take a look at building the Cam86 (which has a 16 bit ADC with a real CCD sensor). You don't even need to sacrifice a camera to get the sensor, you can buy old new stock (about $10-20 per sensor).
  2. I did do a few tests, all looks good but I don't have an enclosure to put this in yet. I'll get back to you once I can take a proper flat frame. Also, I tried something new for closing the sensor back up. I went with black hot glue, just in case I ever want to open it up again. It seems to have had a desirable secondary effect, I think it formed a slight vacuum. I carefully put down shavings of the glue around the glass (not on top or under). Then I carefully hit the glass with heat from a heat gun. This obviously melted the glue in place, but then also sucked it under the glas
  3. I imagine it would work since it is older. If you do try it out, the trick is to get started with a small scrape, just enough to lift a few CFA pixels. Then apply the tape, pressing firmly, then peal back slowly. You'll need to take a lot of care to ensure the static cling of the tape doesn't make it jump somewhere you didn't intend (like the gold wires). Take a look here: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/486810-thinking-about-removing-the-cfa-from-my-20d-thoughts/ Just a side note though, I've done this on two canon 20d's and honestly, it isn't worth the effort. The ca
  4. I managed to debayer a Sony ICX453AQ sensor (Cam86, QHY 8 pro, Nikon D40/D50/D70/D70s). I've heard that the glass on this sensor is quite hard to get off in one peace, so went super slow with it. I did eventually get it off without breaking it (used a blade to work around the edges, then heat gun to free the glass). I was hoping that the sensor would be old enough to work with the scotch tape method (I've done a Canon 20D, which was super easy thanks to the CFA coming off with tape), however, this sensor does not release the CFA without scraping. I'm not sure if there are
  5. I ended up using black hot glue to secure the edges of the peltier cooler to the edges of the enclosure. Its easy to work with, melts at a slightly higher temperature than the normal stuff but is still easy enough to remove if needed. I didn't want to use epoxy as it is way less forgiving. What isn't shown is that there is a square 40x40mm hole for the heatsink to go through the enclosure. The peltier module fits nicely into a ~1mm recess where the enclosure is actually slightly higher than the back of the heatsink. The glue is primarily used to ensure no light leaks through but isn't rea
  6. No issues with condensation yet. I do live in a humid environment too so not sure how I haven't had issues with it. I have verified the sensor does get cold using a laser temperature gauge. I think it might have something to do with the cold finger being a large plate, I'm assuming the humidity gets sucked up in the form of ice crystals on the plate. I haven't even put any descant material in the camera. One thing that might help is that i did put in an IR filter to help seal things off. Obviously it isn't air tight but should keep new moisture out once it forms on the cold finger. T
  7. Bit of a late reply to this post, but I did eventually build two of these cameras. One of which might get debayered one of these days but still needs an enclosure. Anyways, I feel that perhaps these images might help inspire someone else to try this out as well. Honestly, I did not know much about soldering SMD components before this, so if I can do it you'll be fine too. Also, I used a number of ZWO accessory parts to help me adapt the aluminum enclosure to the threads on my telescope. No lathe needed, you only really need a soldering iron and a decent drill. Cheers.
  8. What is your plan for ensuring that your sensor is not tilted? I've heard that you might be able to use a laser pointer to bounce a beam off the sensor onto a wall while rotating the body of the camera.
  9. There are some positive results with regards to image enhancement already. http://space.ml/proj/GalaxyGAN.html It won't be much longer before the same type of convelutional networks can generate higher resolution results. A few recent papers came out about dynamically growing networks during training, rather than starting with a high res image from the start. Beyond image enhancement, I suspect that we will see someone come up with a full image guiding approach. Using some kind of recurrent neural network to determine which direction your mount needs to move in to stack locked o
  10. @abhoriel Great solder work on that PCB. Looks like a fun project! I'm curious, with the sensor being over a decade old, does it make practical sense to build something like this today, beyond for the fun of building your own camera? Certainly, that is a great shot of M42, but I'd argue that similar results can be had from a modified Nikon D5300. Has anyone actually done a comparison to more modern CMOS sensors? (having said all that, i've ordered a PCB from elecrow)
  11. Here is the focuser that I'm using, it was fairly straight forward build. Driver software: The Arduino is recognized as a moonlite focuser. https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/466453-super-compact-electronic-focuser/ Materials: Note: the gears are for an AT80ED, you may need to adjust the internal diameters. Arduino Nano: ~3.00 USD 28BYJ-48 Stepper Motor: ~2.00 USD ULN2003 Driver Board: ~2.00 USD 150Pcs M2 M2.5 M3 M4 M5 Nylon Standoffs Kit: ~4.00 USD HTUN144S2M-60: 5.76 USD https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302652850/?HissuCo
  12. It might be worth noting that the TTL converter may not be outputting the same voltage levels as a real serial port would have. Also, it's simple enough to include activity indicator LED's.
  13. Has anyone tried using liquid nitrogen to remove the sensor glass? Just ran across this video, it would be interesting to see if this or dry ice can be used to remove the protective glass over the sensor.
  14. Hey guys, I recently found out about INDI and Ekos and was curious to see how well it worked (check it out here). I had a raspberry Pi collecting dust and after a couple minor setup steps, my equipment was recognized and connected. My mount, DSLR, shutter release serial cable, and guide camera all connect directly to the Raspberry Pi. I then connect to the Pi from my mac laptop using SSH and the Virtual Machine provided by http://www.indilib.org/. The nice thing about the PI is that it uses little power (about 0.5 amps at 5v), has 4 usb ports, and has built in wifi. I picked up
  15. @Marf1 I just tried running dcraw with "-v -r 1 1 1 1 -d -6 -T" and it seems to be processing my CR2 files in an odd way. It is possible that these flags work for you but not for me. I have a few images that are exposed to the right of the histogram, when I open the CR2 files directly in photoshop, I am able to see all data without clipping. However, after running dcraw with your settings, it seems like the highlights are clipped quite a bit. I'm not sure if this will work for you, but after reviewing the source code for dcraw, I found an unlisted flag, "-E", when used with the follo
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