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  1. I am using the script as is with the big easy driver only change are The wiring is http://www.schmalzhaus.com/EasyDriver/Examples/EasyDriverExamples.html Example1: Basic arduino setup, plus a temp sensor
  2. Hi Tim! i'll hazard a guess here, since that jpeg has too small stars for my eyes even at full res Something is a bit miss-alligned in your imaging train (i hope its not the primary optics - objective tilt (miscollimation) but that could be easily ruled out by removing the flattener and taking an image ). Most propable culprits would be the focuser and the flatener it self. I would check those firstly. Do you have some images of the whole image train? That guess stems from the halo in your centre star having its largest part in the same corner as the bottom left out of focus stars. I hope i'm making sense BUT the sensor on that 100D is quite big and to have it corrected to the edges is really tricky in my experience (actually not possible from what i have seen up to this day). I am talking about sub-millimetre spacing adjustments required and to use techniques such as 2/3rds focusing (physchobilly and uranium have posts about that here). Have a look at this thread for some very good advices i got from fellow SGL'ers https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/249588-sw-ed80-reducer-elongated-stars-problem/ The https://www.astronomics.com/astro-tech-2-inch-field-flattener-astro-tech-tmb-refractors_p17393.aspx has been used widely in many scopes (ED80 league) by fellow astronomers with great results (not with that big sensor such as yours KAF8300 size) but maybe someone with your specific scope can drop in and suggest something that matches your setup even better.
  3. while not PI, have a look also at http://www.mainsequencesoftware.com/Products/ImageGrader its free and it counts the stars fast and hassle free.
  4. Inverters are notoriously bad at efficiency as stated above, + potentially hazardous in a dew rich environment (i got zapped once with mine..) You could go full 12v with a charger like this ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magsafe1-Car-DC-charger-for-apple-45w-60w-85w-MacBook-Pro-MacBook-laptop-/251898456484?var=&hash=item3aa65169a4) I have been using one for 2 years with a car battery and it works fine. With the halfords suggested battery the above charger would last you for almost 10 hours straight if you remove the battery from the mac, or 5 hours with the battery constantly charging. some numbers for clarity : Halfords battery = 12v x 17Ah = 204watthours Mac charger with inverter = 16.5v x 3.65A 60watthours (not exactly though since the inverter is not running at 100% efficiency) The following numbers are from bench testing mine,with the suggestions as above (no wifi, minimum screen brightness etc) Mac charger 12V w/o battery at all = 12v x 1.5A = 18watthours MAc charger 12V w battery = 12v x 3A = 36watthours
  5. +1 on frost or some other obstruction. That dark area on the bottom doesn't look like amp glow (i haven't seen any of that form) and due to weird shape of it, formed ice is a good bet i think.
  6. Got back after almost a years break from anything to do with astronomy, due to work, and wanted to update the focuser with the latest arduino file. It all went great and just wanted to thank you Dave (and everyone else involved of course ) for the awesome project! This build combined with big easy driver and a NEMA17 42BYGHM809 is a BEAST, I am moving a 4.5kg weight attached to a steeltrack focuser as I am writing this post The only things I had to touch was the following in case anyone out there tries to make the combination : Hope the weather allows to test on the field once again soon
  7. Hi Michael! +1 on EQ8 Being just back from an astrotrip, where i saw an Officina Stellare Pro RC 400 (40kg/88lbs) plus STL11k (2kg) and various other things for a whooping 49kg load guiding perfectly at 3.2m focal length on an EQ8, i would say its a rather capable mount. Spending the extra 1k will future proof you from further spending (and loosing money in the process ) when and if you want to upgrade the AZEQ6 Clear skies
  8. Nice one Barry! With a tad more data it shall become poster material
  9. In theory, you should get as good a PA as you can, and there seems to he room for minute improvement from the numbers down left in phd. But i believe you could be fine for exposures up to 15 minutes long if everything else plays nicelly. Give it a go at 5 mins for start, and check results : theories do not always apply in the field :-) Clear skies! Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  10. Pixinsight can also produce very detailed, user controlled, annotation on images (amongst everything else ) If you are using it have a look at a step by step tutorial i made http://www.starcanvas.org/tutorials/pixinsight-tutorial-annotate-you-image Clear skies
  11. Received mine yesterday, and its an awesome focuser. Silky smooth, no slip at all, on par (if not a bit better) than a moonlite in my opinion. It surely transforms the ED80 into a rigid astrograph, capable of lifting whatever you need on its back
  12. What is the focal length of the main scope and how are you guiding? OAG, second scope ? The exposure time on the screenshot 0.1s is, i believe, insanely low (could be wrong though, don't have a lodestar ) and the camera was chasing the seeing. Phd2 Manual states : As a starting point, try using exposure durations in the range of one to five seconds. Give the process a go again after setting it to 2-3 seconds and see how it goes.
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