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Everything posted by acharris77

  1. Hey all, first up apologies for all the bad weather us astronomers are going to have now lol. I received my EQ5 pro today and as usually the customer service from FLO was top class, especially with their help on the price increase of Skywatcher items. I put it together tonight to get a feel and see how it all goes together and I am happy to have figured it out as instructions weren't very helpful lol. It is a big, sturdy mount in fairness. My questions are below. Where is the best place to get the altitude from to adjust the dial? Will a GPS program on my phone be ok? How do the two black knobs that are on the head work? Do you have to have both locking bolts tighten on the Dec to allow fine precision? And I notice my handset is a slighty different shape to the images. Mine has cut-ins each side by the screen and I was wondering if this is a V3 handset or not? Thanks for any help you can give me.
  2. Hi all, thought I would share an image of the M51 Whirlpool Galaxy. Imaged through my 130p DS on a Alt-Az Syncscan (till I get my EQ5 next week) I know the conditions weren't great and I still need to get my LP filter, but I have had great detail trying to pull any detail out of the original stacked in DSS and edited in PS. My attempt is attach, but I am not very happy and I don't know if it is my processing technique or too much LP to edit out. Any here my cropped image. Forgot to add that this is 31 x 25 Sec subs. I have got a 10 x 30 sec stacked image here, but I am really struggling to pull any detail out of that image. Thanks for looking.
  3. I know I added my images to the Deep Sky Imaging section, but thought I would add my M81 and M82 attempt to show that even someone relativity new to the scope and Astrophotography can get a half decent from this excellent scope.
  4. Thanks for the advice. I have tried focusing with a 1.25" nose piece attached to the camera and I can't focus in the 1.25" ep holder. So I don't know if I can get a 2" nose piece to come to focus . Will have to try one. Thanks.
  5. Hi all, stupid question I know but I am going to order the 2" SW Light Pollution filter and I was wondering if I needed any other adaptors? I had a reply that a 58mm to 48mm Step Down is needed to attach the filter, but I was wondering if this is the only way. I got the 130P DS so I attached my DSLR by unscrewing the 1.25" eyepiece adaptor and attach the camera to that piece. But I don't see anywhere that a 2" could screw to it, unless I am missing something obvious which I probably am. On my 1.25" Baader filter I have either screwed it to my eyepiece or to the nose piece on my TouCam webcam. But I was wondering what I need so I can order the filter and whatever else all in one. Thanks in advance.
  6. Thanks everyone for the great advice and insight into what is going on in my images. Some great links provided for me to look at and learn from. Thanks again.
  7. I am unsure what causes gradient. And is there any way in software to reduce some of gradient? Thanks.
  8. Thanks for the reply and confirming what it is. That review link to the comparison of the two filters is what I have been looking for. When I take my images, they look like the shot with no filter orange. I will buy one from FLO I think and give it a try. I got a 1.25" Baader neodymium filter, but no got for my 2" attachment the 1000D uses. Thanks again.
  9. Hi all, being still new to editing and astrophotography I was wondering if I could give me some advice. I use levels in PS CS6 and adjust the sliders each side of the graph. Then I apply that and go back in and click the background dropper and select an area to make the background darker. When I do that, I get the effect in the attached image with the left side of the image looking grainy and brighter. I was wondering if anyone knew if it was the light pollution as I need to order a 2" filter or is it some noise from the long exposure? I can edit it darker, but when I do I lose detail like in the pic. As in that pic you can just see NGC 6207, but when I adjust it I lose that little detail. Would I need to take more darks to help with that effect or would more subs be more useful. Any advice is appreciated as I am trying to learn new techniques so I can take better photos when I get my EQ5. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
  10. I used this site to create mine. http://astrojargon.net/MaskGenerator.aspx Just put in the Focal Length, Aperture and the template will be available to download as a .SVG file. You maybe able to find somewhere that does laser cutting for you to get one made.
  11. Nice shot of Vegas. I am a beginner in Astrophotography and I found using a Bahitov Mask really help me nail focus. I used a site to generate a template, printed it on card, laminated and cut out the relevant parts. Used in live view, I can get focus quickly.
  12. Hey all, I had my 2nd proper night out with my 130P DS to try imaging again. Seeing weren't the best and I could only get my Alt \ Az mount to track for 20 secs, so not the greatest night imaging. I did manage to capture this of the M13 and will take another attempt at it another night. I am still trying to work out how I can remove or what the noise / artefacts on the left hand side of the picture is. Here is my attempt of 24 x 20 sec subs with darks. Thanks for looking.
  13. Thought I would have another play with the processing of the M81 and M82, and this is my 2nd attempt to see if I could get rid of the Light Pollution to the left of M81. Can I have opinions please Thanks.
  14. Hi all, attached is my first attempt at imaging with the 130P DS. I am using a Syncscan Alt/Az mount, so I was limited to 25 Second exposures. And also I need to purchase a light pollution filter or Baader Neodyium (sp?) filter in 2" as I only have a 1.25" one, so pollution was a slight issue. I decided to try the M81 and M82 galaxies for a first attempt. So I took 20 x 25 sec subs and took 10 darks at the time and stacked in DSS and then edited in PS. For a first go on a alt/az mount I am quite happy to have captured both. I am looking to get a EQ5 pro so I can track longer than 25 secs and would have like to have had more subs looking at the image. I am guessing the noise or gradient is caused by amp glow or something else, as I am relativity new to imaging DSO with DSLR. My camera is a 1000D. WIth the flaws I am still happy with the focus and detail I managed to get. Thanks for viewing and any advice is appreciated.
  15. Thanks for the advice. I haven't done nothing yet, so I might wait until I get a proper night and try it. I will be hanging a 1000D off it and to be honest the focuser feels good just for that little bit of stiffness. Fine focusing is great as well. Thanks again.
  16. Thanks for the link. Yeah it does look similar. I shall take a look later or tomorrow and see what is what. Thanks again.
  17. Hi all, I need some advice from 130P DS owners. I have only had to mediocre clear skies since I took delivery of my 130P DS last Friday. I love the scope and can't wait to couple it with a EQ5 Pro Goto when I order it in a few weeks. While it is not a issue and the focuser is still nice to use and great for fine focus, I notice that when I wind the draw tube out around a 1/4 I get a little resistance, but it is not as bad going in. Before I undo the panel under it and look at the shaft, I was wondering if it could be the grub screw under it just touching a little, though unlikely. Also does it have any little allen screws, etc to adjust on the outside to adjust? thanks in advance for any advice you give me.
  18. Thanks for the advice. You can it was 1 am and i was fed up of the clouds. I didn't even think of moving the cropped image around using the buttons. Feel a right idiot for not thinking of something simple as I have done that loads of times on landscape shooting Thanks again both for the great advice.
  19. Hi all, I need some advice. Just purchased a 130pds, so apologies for the extra clouds lmao. I tried it last night focusing on Dubhe before the clouds rolled. If I looked through the view finder I could see the star, but on live view at 5x or 10x I could not see the star. I don't know if this was due to the moonlight and street lights being bright making the star fainter or I was just unlucky with a cloud passing at that moment. Any advice as it was hard to focus on the view finder. Thanks in advance.
  20. Thanks for the reply. In my short time with the scope last night I found the same as you. I am hoping to try again soon with a Barlow on a planet, but if not I will try my Phillips Toucam on the scope for moon and planetary images and my 1000D for DSO's when I get my EQ5. Thanks again.
  21. Hi all, I need some advice. I received my 130P DS today and I am happy with it. I was a bit lucky tonight that I managed to get 20 minutes outdoor time with it in between the clouds. I put it on the AZ syncscan for now as I am ordering a EQ5 next month for the scope. The collimation is good and views are pin-sharp. I took an image of the moon to try out the focus with my Canon 1000D and with the DSLR attached at prime I could obtain focus. When I tried to use my 1.25" t-piece attached to my T2 inserted into the EP holder I could not achieve focus on the moon. I tried with an extension tube that came with the OTA, but still no luck. Could this be because the moon is closer to us, so only prime can capture it or will the 130P DS fail to achieve focus on any object when using a T-Piece. Also is there any benefit to using a 1.25" T-Piece if I can achieve focus by attaching the 1000D at prime? Unfortunately I could not try on something else as the clouds rolled in and that was that. Thanks for any advice.
  22. I also will be joining the 130PDS club. I ordered one this morning from Astroboot for £110. There was 2 on there this morning. Just waiting for it to turn up now.
  23. The actually lessons were 2 hours a week every Thursday. This included going through lots of hand outs that was relevant to the course subject. Then I would say a month before the exam I spent an average of 4 - 5 hours a week just going over the notes to refresh. The exam questions are not bad and if any formulas were needed they were provided in the question. The practical took the longest, but something like the constellation observations included picking 3 of them, make an observation log and sketch the shape and then in the log make note of what you think the magnification and colour of each star is and do a table to compare them to the absolute magnitudes are. I enjoyed learning about the The Hertzsprung–Russell diagram and classification of Red Dwarfs, White Dwarfs etc. It brought a lot of understanding to what is already a wonder and amazing hobby as it is.
  24. Hey all, I mentioned a while back that I was doing a GCSE Astronomy course. When it has now finished as I had my exam Friday before last. I have to wait till August for the results but am hopeful I have done ok. I passed my 2 courseworks which were observing 3 constellation and submitting 3 images of DSO's. The course was really fun and learning stuff like Equation of Time, how to calculate apparent and absolute magnitudes using formulas were interesting. Also loads of other stuff I would recommend the course for anyone wanting to learn Astronomy in more detail.
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