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acharris77

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Everything posted by acharris77

  1. Hey guys, below is an image of Comet Johnson V2 from Wednesday 23rd May. It is my first time imaging a comet and the seeing was not great, but below is the result I got. Not a great image, but happy to have caught it at least. Thanks for viewing
  2. Thanks all. I was looking at flocking on google. I haven't got the confidence to strip it down and put it back together as I know something will go wrong or I can't get the collimation right. I was looking at some people say that just flocking the area opposite the focuser will help cut down unwanted light. I will have to think about what I am going to do with it. Thanks again.
  3. Hi all I need some advice. I think I might have an issue with my 130p DS and internal light pollution reflection. I have noticed the year that no matter what I image or which part of the sky, I am getting terrible LP and gradients in my images. I know I have gotten LP as I am not away from street lights, but I could image in Ursa Major and most objects above my head with only a little LP as they are away from the street lights. Now if I shoot in the same part of the skies then I get terrible gradients, which I will show below. I was advised that it could be internal reflection and if so other than flocking it, is there anything else simple that can be suggested. The scope only cost me £110 new on Astro boot 2 years ago, so probably paying someone to do it is not very cost effective. The gradient is not even and it is a funny shape. It looks worse if I shoot lower in the sky and all my M42 images suffered from the same pattern and it makes the subs useless and need to be binned. As much as I love my 130P DS and it did deliver great images untill the last 9 months to a year and now imaging is less rewarding. I don't know what to do. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  4. Thanks for the reply. No it is only SE it happens. If I take higher up in the sky, like in Ursa Major in spring / summer then I don't get as much LP and it is more even. as it is totally away from the street lights. I got a light South and East so I guess that don't help. I will have to try a flocked dew shield to see if it help, but it is just frustrating lol. Thanks again.
  5. Hey all, I need some advice as I am wondering if I have a equipment fault or just bad luck with light pollution. I have tried imaging the M42 with my 130P DS and Canon 1000D using a EQ5 Pro mount. Ignore the poor stars as I had a bad night Thursday with I a combination of wind, bad polar alignment and my battery pack low on power so the tracking was poor as normally I can get 2 min unguided, but I couldn't manage 1 min without issues. But I digress and the main issue is the LP gradient. No matter what I do, I can't seem to get M42 as I always get bad LP gradients in the image. I know the street lights aren't best position and Orion never really get above them, but I always try to make sure I image when the nebula is not too near the street lights. But every time I try, I get the orange glow but when I process in PS, I always get this sort of result. On this one there are rings on the right hand side which I have no idea what they are. I have tried with a LP filter but still no luck. I use a 2" nose piece to attach my camera to the 130PDS focuser. I am guessing that this is just a case of too much light catching the end of the scope, which is giving a lot of gradients?? I am still confused as to what the rings are on the right hand side. I have had 4 attempts the last 5 weeks or so and each time I have failed to capture such an easy target, so becoming frustrating now lol. I be interested in what other people think?? Thanks in advance.
  6. Thanks for the advice. Now you mentioned that, I think I know what that may actually be. As it was a bit windy the washing line was moving back and forth so I wonder if that is what blew in front of the scope. I shall check my subs and see if it appears in any other. If so then you mention that I will know what to look for in the future. Thanks again.
  7. Here is my WIP so far. I got my original stacked tif file, so I can always revert back to it if I mess up too bad lol
  8. Hi all, I need some expert advice. I took 14 x 1 min exposures of the M42. Unfortunately the position of it means it is prone to light pollution and also Friday night the seeing weren't the best, as my M45 picked up some reflected light pollution due to the wet up there. Normally I can process the images and get rid of the LP, but when I try to use the middle dropper in the levels in PS, I get left with a red mess of gradients. If I use GradientXterminator, the LP gets removed but then I am left with weird gradients. It is a shame as in processing, I have even managed to capture detail in the Running Man Nebula, but can't remove the gradients to make it usable. If anyone has any tips to help then I would be most grateful. Thanks.
  9. Here is my desktop. It is my main rig which I use for editing and gaming.
  10. Thanks for confirming. Saldy the 10 x 90 sec subs I have stacked and ready for editing are not usable. I have tried this evening to pull some detail out, but sadly I can not get any. Think these might be resigned to the the category of 'can't do anything them' lol
  11. Thanks all for the advice. The sky is not really dark thanks to the lights, but also not as bad due to a field opposite me. Just checking earlier and I think I found the M101 in the image. This is a few images stacked with 90 sec exposure. I think I can just make it out and that night I think the atmosphere has some wet which was causing the light pollution to reflect with the nearly full moon also present. The image was only a quick process to see if I could make out a faint M101 as Amcl said it was very faint. So I think the GOTO is working OK. Thanks again for the help.
  12. Hey all, hope this is the right forum to ask the question and if not I apologise and ask a Mod to move it. I have been trying to image the Pinwheel Galaxy using my 130P-DS on EQ5 Pro mount. I set my goto up and it goes to other objects OK, but when I select the scope moves to it, but when I image I can not find it on the image. I was wondering if the object is not visible with the 130P-DS or if my back garden is not a suitable location? It is really frustrating as I don't know if it is me or the conditions lol. Thanks for any advice.
  13. After the advice given above I did RGB align and processed a bit more in Registax and here is the result. Thanks for the advice Neil
  14. Cheers Neil for the advice and the kind words. I will take a go at the RGB align in Registax and see what I can produce. Thanks again.
  15. Here was my effort of Mars taken on 30 May at around midnight when it was about 17 degrees. The AVI has terrible distortion and wavey patterns all over it so detail is lacking. This is actually the first time I have ever managed to even capture Mars in a image. Taken with my 130P DS and Philips Toucam
  16. Hi all, I need some advice. I have been powering my EQ5 Pro mount with a Streetwise 5-in-1 power pack. It has been ok both on my Syncscan and now my EQ5. The battery have decided to die in that it won't hold charge for more than 4 days and even though the reading are around 12V showing, as soon as I plug my mount into it the needle goes in the red and the syncscan handset shows the scope only getting 9v, just over. I am looking for a replacement power pack and I was wondering if anyone has suggestions? my budget is about £60 - £80. Basicly only powering the mount, and maybe a netbook but that is not too important. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
  17. Hey all, with the Transit approaching on May 9th I thought I would get myself prepared. I ordered a sheet of Baader Film from FLO and made a filter for my DSLR 300mm Lens and I used some to make a permanently attached Solar Filter to my scope end cap. The results are below. Thanks for reading.
  18. SaggieMaggie7 I used iso 1600. My 130P DS manages 110 secs unguided, but results will vary as the 200p will be right on the limit or just over the weight limit for the mount. But good luck and hope you get some great images
  19. Hi all, as conditions were to bad Sunday night I decided to try and image the M51. My first attempt was using my Alt/Az syncscan with the 130P DS but didn't get enough exposure. So using the EQ5 Pro I imaged the Whirlpool Galaxy. I took 18 x 110 sec subs. I stack them in DSS using 4 darks and 4 flats. Then I edited it in photoshop. I did try 2 min subs, but I don't know if I can push the EQ5 unguided that far, as when I tried it I got a little bit of star trailing. But it could have been due to the wind gusting. But for now I am quite happy with 110 Second tracking unguided. Thanks for viewing.
  20. Thanks all for the kind comments. @Dave In Vermont I used this link - Toucam Driver @ecuador I did try the RGB align, but as it was late at night I might have not adjusted enough. I will have to take another run at it through registax as the atmosphere was poor. Thanks again all.
  21. Hi all, seeing as March appears to be a ggod time for viewing and imaging Jupiter, I thought I would give it a try. It has been 5 years since I used my Toucam last to image a planet and the first time I have put a Webcam in my 130P DS. The seeing weren't the best as could be seen in the AVI I captured in Sharpcam. I think I stacked 800 frames from a total of 1500 and after a bit of work in Registax the result is below. I am hoping to get another clear night and that the seeing will be better. I tried to use a 3x Barlow lens, but the conditions wouldn't allow such magnification. Thanks for viewing.
  22. Hey all, seeing as the moon is bright in the sky I decided to try some Lunar imaging for a change. I was coming home and only had my Canon 1000D with me, so I decided to pull over in a layby and take a few shots. It was taken using a Tamron 75 - 300mm zoom lens and using 1/500 and ISO 400. I had never done a moon shot with a Camera on a Tripod before, but was quite happy with how it turned out. Thanks for viewing.
  23. Hey all, it has been a while given the terrible weather we have had lately but the last 2 nights I have been able to get the scope out. I decided to image the M97 Owl Nebula a go as I haven't imaged it before. I didn't realise till after that I also manage to catch the M108 in the image as well. This is 15 x 80 Secs lights with 5 Flats and 3 Darks. Lucky as the objects were above the house, light pollution was a lot less so could keep more detail. Thanks for viewing
  24. This is similar to the new Polar Scope that comes with the EQ5's now. I had the same issues with trying to understand it. I will post a scan of an instruction sheet which should help you out. Ignore the part about the syncscan and download and use Polar Finder as mentioned by Stub Mandrel to get the clock position of Polaris. Hope this helps
  25. Thanks for the reply. The possibility of light entering could have been a possibility on the M42 one it was low and close to the street light at the time of imaging. The Leo triplet one weren't really near a light to get stray light in. Also no I don't cap the view finder but that weren't pointing near a light source. But I will take a look the next time I get the scope out as it could very well be possible. Thanks again for the advice.
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