Jump to content

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_31.thumb.jpg.b7a41d6a0fa4e315f57ea3e240acf140.jpg

uminded

Members
  • Content Count

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About uminded

  • Rank
    Nebula

Profile Information

  • Location
    Canada
  1. Adding to an old topic, this was the first google result. The reason my telrad was fuzzy was dust from changing the batteries! I blew it out and wiped the lens and its sharp and defined.
  2. Yes USB2.0 bandwidth is not capable of YUV422 1080P at anything above 7fps without using a codec such as MJPEG to compress the stream. There are USB3.0 5MP webcams that can do the full 5MP image at 12fps but thats already pushing USB3.0 speed. The more pricey cameras have a dedicated codec chip that does a great job in compression but 99% of webcams just do it in software and that introduces quite a bit of noise. I did my testing with the LifeCam studio on my microscope so that the image was always stationary and lit. I found that without the IR cut filter the side the light was coming from ga
  3. I have a LifeCam Studio that can capture 8MP images using the LifeCam provided software but I do not see any way to capture above 1080p in SharpCap. The Lifecam studio software streams a video preview and then captures the full resolution image, currently I use SharpCap to position and focus then switch to the microsoft software to take images. Anybody found a way to do it all via SharpCap?
  4. Well I don't think I get clear enough skies to even attempt 400x magnification... But I did manage to see some fading detail on Jupiter on a 6/10 viewing night in my backyard so my collimation is good enough for the 1hr backyard sessions for now. Once my barlow shows up and I go on a country drive I will see what difference it makes. For now I just finished a green laser finder and a prototype remote motorized crayford focuser. Will post a little write up once I prove it to work. Thanks for the help!
  5. 115/700mm Reflector. Its back to 100% overcast nights for the next while, maybe I can try again next time.
  6. Maybe I can't see the airy disk as my max magnification is around 112x
  7. I used Astro Baby's collimators guide to tune up my scope and I took it outside (Last night was the first night not 100% overcast since Oct 8th ), took it outside to do a star collimation. Problem is I do not get an "airy disk" with any difference of focus... Its all just one blur or a pinpoint of light. I can not possibly be that far out as I observed two dark bands on Jupiter last night. The only pattern I could get it if I backed the focuser tube 99% out I could see the secondary and primary mirror alignment swimming in the view. I then focused back down and past and if I see any pattern a
  8. I picked up a LifeCam Studio for $66 taxes in shipped to my door, I figured it was to good of a sale to not try out astro imaging! I followed this teardown guide and it was an easy job. I used a hot knife cutter to melt/cut off the mounting stem: I then mounted the whole assembly into a black 35mm film canister. It took 8 wraps of tape top and bottom to get a snug fit: I took it out for a test drive and realized I needed an IR cut filter as the moon was terribly discoloured and washed out. I also got dust galore on the sensor so I decided to see if I could transplant it into my POS chinese j
  9. Thanks for the info, I am quite new to optics in general. My 114/900mm scope will be used for the moon and planets. I have a WF 50mm EP for deep sky stuff but the FOV is pretty small at F7.9 Prime focus on my scope should be 900mm from the center of the mirror, reflected off the secondary and be somewhere in the focusing tube just outside the scope's tube, correct? I am going to center dot the primary this weekend so I might grab some string and measure it out... On average for a F8 scope how much EP travel does a crawford have? They all look really low profile.
  10. According to CCD Calc my image scale is 0.69 arcsec/px and FOV of 5.5x7.3 arcmin with the webcam. I can measure how far out of the tube my 20mm EP requires to focus and do the same with the webcam. What EP is my webcam comparable to in mm?
  11. When I put my webcam in my focusing tube I get a well magnified image. Is there a way to calculate what magnification my webcam is getting? Also, I will be making a crayford focuser soon, how do I figure out the length of tube I will need??
  12. Thanks for that link, helped a lot. I was not expecting colour or anything but I was expecting to see more shape than just an ambiguous grey mass. Unfortunately most of my clear skies this month have been on mornings 60-90min before sunrise looking over the glare of the city of 300,000 people 10km away. Looks like I should keep my observation to planets and the moon in my back yard and wait for a good weekend for the messiers. I have recently discovered the difference between cloud cover and transparency as well. A full moon on a high transparency day does not wash things out, but as soon as t
  13. Thanks for all the input. I never thought of checking sketches. I just got the scope with junk tripod and mount. Made a new mount and trying to learn colimation. I just didnt know what to expect. Scope is a Bushnell clone 114x900mm with a terrible 20mm eyepiece. I have a CZJ 50mm wied field thats phenominal and I can see two of Juipiters moons. BTW, looking at Jupiter in 0deg weather is like watching a welding torch. If we get clear skies I am going to head 20miles out of town and see what difference it makes. The moon is a pain in the but up here, I can read a book and take cellphone pictures
  14. So I finally had a clear morning before work and was looking at Jupiter and my view was exactly as Stellarium predicted. I then turned to M42 which is one of the brightest and was rewarded with a slight haze around the center cluster of stars. I am not actually sure what I am suppose to be able to see? Does anybody have a single frame capture of what M42 should look like at 30x magnification with just your eye, no filters?
  15. I put valve grinding compound on the joints and screwed/unscrewed them until I was able to get 3+ more rotations on them. The joint is a little loose but with weight and grease afterwards it is very stable. Its easy to tell if you are flipping in the same direction to much as the joint gets sloppy. It is immensely easy to point and I tested tracking on a few random stars and it works perfectly for viewing. No wobble from the breeze in the slightest which was my main reason for this endeavor. It is stable when snugged down as the system rotates so freely BUT I see you need to rotate the OTA so
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.