Dear mates,

my  recent attempt with Samyang 135mm on Dolphin nebula with Optolong L- extreme filter  and a Sony A7 camera.

CS

Rush

Optolo-eXtreme

Well,

dithering + Lp filter is more essential than long cooling intervals in my experience.

Keep ISO low, for instance 400, exposure time 120 seconds and shoot one or many nights the same object.

Try not to use Live view screen. Its quiet true what mate Alacant says.

On the other hand if u r really concerned about cooling the camera, use a table FAN and blow on the Camera at a slow rotation naturally.

Cheers

Rush

This is a new attempt with Samy 135mm fully open and Canon 5D . Processed without cali frames, laziness amazes me.

CS

Rush

This image of Lagoon & Co is with Sammy 85mm and Sony A7.  Lens is quiet heavy for an 85 mm, works fine.

Cs

Rush

16 hours ago, Adam J said:

It went down because it automatically bins the pixels below gain 120.

Ah, interesting. my brain pixels too binned now.😜 manually. Humming teach ur children well.

2 hours ago, Adam J said:

Never use a gain of less than 120 on the ASI294mc pro as it alters how it reads the pixels.

Hi Adam,

 had this Camera for 6 months, tried the unity gain ( corresponding 120 s) in SGP. Result was extrem Col.noise and stars were kind of overexposed , RGB histogram by far misaligned .

In the course of time, turned down the gain to 70 and from 300s to 180s and the C.noise dramaticaly went down . This is purely my expeirence. I cant try this again as I sold off this cam.

 Was trying to combine the lum from CCD with CMOS OSC. In the end I gave up,  lol.

Adam , did you use this camera or did u check personaly how the gain values respond ? Curious 2 know, probably my handling was wrong. This was my low gain attempt HLRGB.

cheers

Rush

Hi,

Reduce the gain, start from 60 or 70 instead of 120. Off set leave at default. Frames @180s or below.

Use an IR cut filter.

Cleaned up ur image without cali frames, Im allergic to cali frames 😩.

Hope this helps.

This is an HALRGB version Orion taken with Sammy 135mm and SBIG ST-8300M.

Was a windy night , focus shiffting at regular intervals. Star spikes, not thin edged due to

vibration i guess.

CS

Rush

This is what remains after cleaning up.

RGB channels

R

G

B

CS

9 hours ago, ZiHao said:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zv6m8a9vvmon0xo/done.TIF?dl=0

👌 K.

Can u upload a stacked image right out of APP or DSS. Not touchiing the saturation silder ?

CS

On 20/06/2019 at 20:35, Kaydubbed said:

Ah I use a ZWO set for now at 7nm  with my asi183mm and noticed my frames were soft in Ha detail on NGC7000 but I totally just blamed the poor transparency.  I should stop to F4 and see if I have improvements. I'm sure it will improve but k already regret that loss of light at F4!

Added 3 hrs of Ha and O3 to the Sony DSLR image fully wide open at F2. My eyes cannot see the occilation nor the incoherence of the light signal.

Cant say overall SNR s improved or aggravated the phase distortion by the filters . The colours look different and some of those dust lanes, star colours vanished and Nebula itself became more dense. 

Baader 7 nm and Baader F/2 High speed O3 filter were used.

CS

Rush

DSLR image

N band added.

Southern beauties 🤩 with Sony A7 and Canon 600D

Antares region

LMC

Cats paw and Lobster

Running chicken

CS

Rush

Hi,

Roberto on Astrobin uses Fs 60 CB . You can take a look at his collection of Images with FS60. https://www.astrobin.com/360918/?nc=user

well, I have used a couple of them too, Its quiet sharp and focus remains kind of steady even at temp fluctuations.

Somtime back i wanted to dispose one of mine.

Adding one more Samyang  image. ( 3 hrs with a Sony A7)

CS

Rush

6 hours ago, rickwayne said:

 just breathe and repeat The 183 Mantra:

  It calibrates out.

  It calibrates out.

  It calibrates out.

But you certainly do want darks at exactly that gain, temp, and exposure!

My Mantra is ,

No califrames, No Califrames, No Califrames. go away amp glow . Dont ask me why , this is humming in my head every time i start processing, may be cos Im lazy.

ASI294MC PRO  + Takumar 135 mm lens . HA /OXY injected to OSC. No Califrames🤩

Takumar 135 mm lens makes halos around bright stars.Stars r not round my laziness with guiding.(used previous night caliberation )

But was fun fiddling around with this OSC camera.

CS

Rush

It s nice in green, and true what Wim wrote too, but its ur choice i guess.

Bcos NGC 4631 from Scott Anttila is Greenish like yours. APOD nasa 2004 is greyish  looks Natural. Have a look. Exist also many bluish versions.

https://apod.nasa.gov/apod/ap020329.html

You have enough data there so you can go either way:) Run backgraound neutralisation bvor streching. worst case 50% SCNR.

We quit now, Green help for Colli help.:)

CS

Rush

18 hours ago, iwols said:

just taken a few darks and suprised how many bad pixels i have,this has been stretched quite a bit is this normal thanks

 

 

This looks almost like a clean dark frame. My work horse CCD cams shower blizzard snowfstorm appearance through the wind shield.?

Especcially with Baader Ha filters. A cosmetic correction or a Bad pixel Map (like Dave wrote) will remove this. In my experience worst noisy Chips

like KAF 8300 still make pretty images. I agree with Ollys point do not judge cameras from the noise. Processing  noiseless cameras are not so easy. True.

CS

Rush

3 hours ago, Rodd said:

The stars don't look blocky to me...enlarged for sure, Yep, thats what i mean.

I don't often have "splendid" star fields with color in the cores.  Well, me either, been fiddling around for a while, still dont get it right.?

In my defense this is a drastic crop, so the stars are bound to look sub-optimum (in my hands) Absuletly nothing 2 defend. thats the prize,U cant have it all.

 

 

 

Is it ok if i ask ,did you add the RGB lum to the Master Lum ?  or mixed it 0.20*+ 0.80*using Pixel Math.

MT (PI) dark ring star residuals (unless the star mask is above optimum) in a drastic crop  will not Pardon the Galaxy:)

Its a super splendid image.

Rush

Rodd its  a  spledid colourful galaxy. Nicely done.  Very  interesting super lum Approach.

Delicate question ? perhaps reduce the star size bvor cropping. Kind of blocky star background for a razor sharp Galaxy or not ?

Super Image,

CS

Rush

Hey ,

Im so sorry. didnt check this post.

After a qucik fix i discarded the Image and  the stacked Image file.

If you send me a stacked IF , will redo and post it. is that OK ?

CS

Rush

On 13/04/2019 at 10:22, laser_jock99 said:

I've looked at buying this lens as a possible replacement for my ageing Nikon ED180 F2.8 which was the recomended fast widefield AP lens in its day.

I don't want to hook it up to a CCD- so has anyone got any unprocessed, full frame DSLR images at F2 to post? I'd like to see if it is an improvement on the 'slow' old Nikon! And also how well it handles CA- one of the Nikons failings (on my lens at least) was issues with CA wide open. I found I had to stop down to F4 and use a Lumicom Minus Violet filter (almost half the cost I paid for the lens!!).

This is a Sony full frame A7 in jpeg, If you want a raw frame i will add. Hope this helps,

CS

Rush

10 hours ago, Adreneline said:

Hi Rush.

I bought the belt from MotionCo - along with the various pulley components, etc.

I don't think I will be going for the electronic option thank you; I prefer the simple approach

Good luck with sourcing an appropriate belt.

Adrian

Thanks Adrian , and happy imaging,

Cs

Rush

1 hour ago, Adreneline said:

I've had my 135mm a year now and used it primarily with an Atik428ex and more recently a ASI1600MM-Pro.

This is the Heart and Soul using the ASI1600; 15x120s + 15x180s at unity gain, offset 50. I really like the wide field of view offered by this combination.

I use a fairly manual setup - manual filter change and semi-manual focussing using a homemade stepper motor system.

Thanks for looking.

Adrian

Looks nice , i want to assemble a similar stepper motor focuser , but was unable to find that rubber belt. You have any idea where i can buy one of those.

Once i had that filter tray , i replaced with Atik  ew 2. Makes the struggle a lot easier Adrian. With ASI 1600 a lot more easier attaching the electric filterwheel.

Spacing is almost perfect.

cheers

Rush

Toy arrangement till the recuurence of dismantel sickness