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Rossco72

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Posts posted by Rossco72

  1. just measure all the spacers to get to 55mm initially. You may need to tweak this a little once you take test images to get a little closer or a little further depending on the star patterns you get.

    The back portion of your filter wheel should unscrew to allow the camera to screw directly into the wheel to keep the filters as close to the chip as possible.

  2. 6 hours ago, recceranger said:

    Hi Rossco, 

    I had the original ASIAIR and it was a nightmare to get operational. Wouldn't connect, didn't recognise my mount etc. A royal pain, so I sold it and swore i'd never look back. I have to say, the 'plus' is a completely different beast. Perfect connection, not a glitch in the matrix and 100% functional control over all equipment. Set up took about 1hr, from out of the box to first image. I haven't used my Laptop since. No more APT, PHD2, Sharpcap etc. Also, the new firmware update that allows you to frame up your target is a fantastic tool. I can only speak from my own experience, but it has totally simplified my imaging sessions. Love it. 

    Mine has arrived and cameras, filter wheel and NEQ6 all talk nice and seem to work as they should. I say seem to as we are stuck in a 6 week cloud cover and counting...

    I am currently trying to get it to communicate with my Celestron CGE mount, but there seems to be all sorts of Stories about ASIAIR and Celestron being a difficult marriage which is a shame because the CGE is a far better mount.

    If all else fails though, its good to know the NEQ6 works just as it should.A8731395-9966-4AC7-AC2F-EF3B00A96EE1.thumb.jpeg.dd57de344dfa8883019a7b37e27d66a7.jpeg

    Now if one of my EAFs would just show up!!!

    • Like 1
  3. After a long absence, my 2p worth may actually only be worth 1/2p but I have just moved from a modified Canon DSL to a 533MM Pro.

    I haven't had a clear sky since 🤨 but after reading up as much as I could, this seemed the next logical step from a DSLR to me.

  4. First off, it's been a while but it's good to be back!

    I now have the ability to undertake some Astronomy from a back garden, not something I have had before. So I can now leave a mount set up and polar aligned and just put a scope on when nights are clear, ideal.

    Anyway, I got hold of one of these ZWO EFWs from FLO, still going strong I'm glad to say and will be doing some narrowband and possibly some LRGB imaging with a ZWO ASI 533MM Pro (More on that later).

    I've loaded the filters (see pic, doesn't it look nice!) and had a daytime play around just to hear how it sounds and check the filter change time etc. 

    I am pleased to say so far so good. It is much quieter than the last motorised filter wheel I had, a very old starlight express model if I remember correctly. Obviously this might sound louder in the dead of night but not sure it will be significantly over the sound of the mount tracking.

    Filter changes are fast and the ability to go in either direction to find the filter is a bonus in this respect.

    Build quality looks very good so far and there are a variety of options to mount this in your imaging train. I followed the example in the quick start and connected my Televue 0.8 reducer/flattener with T2 threads through a space to the EFW and the EFW direct to the camera.

    However, The body of the filter wheel has threaded holes to screw cameras or OAGs directly to the EFW. As I am not using OAG and the camera happily threads onto the EFW I am left with small 2mm ish holes on the front and back. I worry that these may allow light in but also dust and any humidity etc.

    Whilst I applaud ZWO for thinking about how devices will be attached, I would have liked maybe a small packed of rubber or silicon grommets to plug the holes as opposed to black electrical tape!

    Anyway, once I get some clear skies and a chance to see how this works in anger I will update this for anyone else considering a purchase.

     

    Cheers

    Stuart

    IMG_4230.thumb.jpeg.fae15ed61b8cef6421902d098c493b18.jpeg

  5. There is a surprising lack of dealers in the uk for Starlight given that feather touch focusers are so widely regarded as the best in the realistic price point.

    I ended up going direct to get what I was after and exchanged mails with Wayne to agree what was needed.

    Very professional and happy to deal with customers in the UK direct if you are looking at a nice upgrade.

    Cheers

    Stuart

    • Like 1
  6. OK, quick update.

    I stripped everything down and refitted, tightening things up. Last night was the first semi clear night and I took the Dob out.

    The alignment went ok, first alignment star Arcturus in the West, then chose Capella in the North-East. The Dob slued round and Capella was in the eyepiece if not central. A quick adjustment and Alignment success.

    Then select a Goto M15, in the South West, again in the eyepiece (26mm) just off centre. I adjust a little on the handset to centre and it stays in the middle for a good 10 mins.

    Then Select M31 and it completely misses! Re-Do alignment and then goto M31 and there it is in the eyepiece again. Holds ok and then do a GOTO Neptune and it misses.

    Also on the Moon it just couldn't keep it steady at all for some reason and the moon kept drifting off the eyepiece even with lunar tracking enabled!

    So to sum up it seems it can only do one goto and track per alignment....

    :shocked: :shocked: :shocked:

    Cheers

    Stuart

  7. The clutch isn't likely to be the problem because the encoder is on the shaft - so it only records a change when the shaft moves. If the clutch slips - the shaft doesn't move and so the encoder doesn't change.

    That said - it may be that you have a problem with the encoder itself. Or the connection between that and the handset. Possibly the little board with the IR sensor on it, or even the little motherboard in the motor/encoder enclosure (or one of the connectors to it). We're dealing with low voltage DC here which is highly susceptible to even the smallest amount of corrosion, dirt or moisture. Sometimes just unplugging each connector and remaking it can clear faults.

    I suspect that this problem is going to be difficult to track down.

    Unfortunately it may well be tricky, I'm off for the school mid-term holidays next week so hopefully I'll have some time to strip it all down, rebuild it and see where I go from there. Your guide will come in very useful.

    Cheers

    Stuart

  8. I have found that it is vital to get the base level! If it is not then the further off level it is then the further out the goto will be.

    The sooner SW do a 3 star align routine the better these mounts will perform I think.

    Gaz

    Thanks Gaz, I level the base with a bubble. If it needs to be more level than a bubble level then I'd say it is a design not fit for purpose...

    Cheers

    Stuart

  9. I generally use a GPS mouse (just coz I have 1) and it sets the date, time, location etc.

    Alignment stars I like to hope not but maybe the odd clanger but for me given that I can do an alignment, slue to the first target and hit it dead on then slue to a second and be anywhere from close to miles out it seems more likely to me that its a clutch or some kind of slip on the encoder causing the problem.

  10. Hopefully next week I will finally get to grips with my Goto Dob as it's never consistently worked since I bought it.

    The OTA is good and views are great but the GOTO and tracking is so hit and miss. Sometimes misses the target by 10-20 DEGREES!! but then other times once manually put on the right target it will track ok, sometimes not.

    I think I'll start by tightening up the friction a bit in both axis.

    Great info so far Richard and keep posting any updates

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