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hmmm, I learnt on a 250 Ymaha, then moved to a Road King when I passed my test 6 weeks later I tend to try to run before walking Digression

Hi, I was looking at your notes covering your dual rig build, and was wondering if you would provide more info on the custom adapter you used to solve the issues you had with guiding?

As @Tim says, if you can advise your chosen equipment and targets., we may be able to help match a camera. It does depend a bit on the target, focal length of OTA. You'd not want a small pixel large sensor size on a long focal length tube on a smaller mount as guiding would be difficult. The diameter of the imaging circle, if small, on a large sensor may cause vignetting. Large diameter imaging circle with a small sensor would be wasting a lot of light. @Scott has a valid point too. Mono v OSC is almost as bad as 'fracs vs Newt' discussions LOL If you already had a DSLR use that for a while.

If you could post the error dialog that is show, it will assist and providing a solution. Click on the menu bar of the dialog and Alt-PrtScn, then paste into your post Ctrl-V

Seems that company no longer trades - as of 2013. Shame as that was a design I was thinking best of the three I have seen: rat cage: - too many points for flex, + easy to access mount securing bolt to loosen in required rotatable top plate: - need to fit plate to mount then plate to pier, +very adjustable in Az after installation owl hole: +less flex, +access to mount bolt I'm not a DIY type tho'. Would you be willing to share the design? I want to be able to have 200 lb on my pier so, may need adjustments. Youngest daughters is MEng structural Engineer so may be able to press that knowledge in to serve - but she expects me to work most of it myself

this may help a little? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/blog/skywatcher-heq5-v-heq5-syntrek-v-heq5-pro.html

I believe I recognise the design - as I just emailed them to see which adapter to use on their high end model. The email bounced

THAT looks like it was worth waiting since September.....a very patient man.

I believe that most coma correctors are also focal reducers. e.g. the Skywatch comma corrector is actual a 0.9 focal reducer, so your f5 OTA becomes f4.5

Hi, I notice your graph is pixels. I have often seen an various places be people who know these things that you are better using the arc-sex/pixel scale - for variety of 'technical' reasons, but I think one of them is their better reflects how the star is moving in relation ration to your optics. Will have a dig around incase I've kept some relevant links

Just found another note I have the ratio of pixel scale for each camera/tube < 4 the pixel scale is pixel size (in micrometers)/focal length (mm) * 206.3 so, in my case using the Orion with a QHY6,and a canon 600d with the 200P-DS 6.5/162*206.3 = 8.2 arcsec / pixel for guider 4.3/900*206.3 = 0.99 ratio come out as 8.4 so, not to good. Replace the Orion with the Startravel 80 and the ration come out to 3.4 or, replace the QHY6 with a ToupTek Mono (1280*960, 3.75mm pixel size) the ration is 4.84 If we use the Canon 600d, on your 150P-DS, and the Orion with the ToupTek camera the ration is 3.63, which is likely to be manageable. You've not mentioned which cameras you are using, or planning to use. I've a spreadsheet I set up to a do a whole range of cal cautions for different gear - worth the effort. Sorry,I keep scraps, my handwriting is abysmal, so rarely note URLs etc.

I initially used an Orion 50mm (162mm focal len) guide scope on my 200P-DS 1000mm focal length Saw somewhere suggesting ratio of focal lengths of the main tube to guide should be around 3:1 or thereabouts. I now use a StarTraveller 80mm F5 (400mm fl) for guide scope.

and here's a first 'off topic'sih any one seen this? https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/raspberry-pi-watch/ I was particularly drawn to Jeremy Lee's device.

I was wondering is the forum software supports sub topics, so that any commentary is separated for the tutorial itself? And , if the author (@Gina) would be interested. Reason I ask is that despite the high standard of the documantation, and intensive work, by the author, the thread can drift way off topic and people can lose interest as they spend a long time separating chaff from grain.

Works for me. I was assuming that this was a tutorial of how you did things which would be a starter for others to do something similar with other OS/HW setups

Hopefully this will lead to an increased demand on manufacturers/developers to come up with INDI drivers for hardware as current support is woefully lacking

How thick? My patio slabs, 2' x 2', are 1.25" Yes...... I know lol

Regards calibration. This needs to be done +/-20 off equator. But, everyone then says to recalibrate at target. OK - unless the target is about c60degrees, then PHD alerts that it will not be particularly accurate? What do I do ?

Here is my final contribution. Double sided ready to print and laminate. Assembly checks.docx

You should know better than that surely? central belt - it changes every 10 minutes

Therein lies the rub, when you have completed something successfully and people say "you can't do that" you doubt that it is what you did and often convince your self that the setting you quoted where not what you actually used.

you have captured, very succinctly, the whole point if this thread (as well as in what to remember to check PT II - your session ) forget I am assuming the reference is anecdotal only.

Py II includes charging whilst in situ (caveat that your tank allows charging whilst it is in use. If you are remote - take an inverter to charge form the car :)) Pt III (teardown) includes putting it on charge when finished.