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Everything posted by MikeMS

  1. Gents, Thank you. Not too sure where I got the 2.5 and 2.1 from, but it is the supplied lead with the mount. The rubber sheet has worked well and I think it will be a success. But I have noted your comments. Kind regards, Mike.
  2. Okay, I think I have 'fixed' the problem. I have glued a piece of 3mm thick rubber over the power socket and cut a hole for the power light and the top right hand screw. With a hole over the socket smaller than the plug shaft, the power does not cut out now. Well on the bench. Not pretty but functional. Kind regards, Mike..
  3. Ah, a quick google and I see this is a common issue. I am tempted to buy a short extension lead and glue it in place, then I can swap from battery to mains. But any other suggestions gratefully received. Should I use a 2.5mm plug and not the supplied 2.1mm plug? Kind regards, Mike.
  4. Good afternoon all. Please can I ask a question. I have a EQ6 mount and whilst I have not really used it, both the 12V cigarette lighter lead and a purchased correct mains adaptor will lose contact and cut out. It is purely a manual problem, as both plugs equally do not sit in the power socket of the mount very well, and 'wobble' enough to cut out. There is about 2.5mm of exposed metal shaft on the plugs when fully engaged. I have tried to glue the lead in place, but as all this is new equipment is seems not the answer. Grateful for advice if this is a common problem and the solution. The mount is now over a year old, and overseas so taking it back is not an option. Kind regards, Mike.
  5. Hello Michael Thank you for your prompt reply. I will look out for the correct size secondary. And I will post some pictures when I have completed some work on it. Kind regards, Mike.
  6. Hello All. I have another mirror and will build a dobsonian. For a change, I am going for a single pole arm scope. I think I always have too large a secondary, but this time it could be the opposite. The reason for the smaller secondary is it is from a 6" Newtonian. The secondary is 42mm across, the primary 250mm F6 and the focuser will be about 100mm from the end of the primary mirror. Is this too small? I can always change the mirror later, and I have just ordered a laser collimator, so I may try and mount it to bounce a beam to the primary mirror edge and see where it goes, always scientific. Kind regards, Mike.
  7. Hello Alan. The waterpipe here is hard plastic and is grey. I do not know if that just happens to be the colour and texture though. If you need some just say, in case it is difficult to get in the UK as it is normally copper. Kind regards, Mike.
  8. For the plastic inserts I take a plastic end cap used for water pipes, turn the outside down to just larger than the alloy pipe inside, put a bolt through the end and the nut on the side of the cap and tighten. Then I cut a short length of the pipe to put in the cap to fill up the space and then put it in the alloy tubing. It needs to be hit with a hammer and it takes off the excess plastic to make a very tight fit. Picture here. Mike.
  9. Thanks for the kind words. I got the idea of a LP from somewhere on the web and the first time I used the entire album as the bearing. The discs are very small and as they run on untreated plywood it does need to be painted or varnished but it does work. The balance is spot on, you just find the centre of gravity by lifting up the OTA and the side bearings pivot from that point. The spider is a steel ruler cut in half. This is my 4th strut tube dobsonian and it is just straight lines and curves, I have a router to cut both. And a little lathe to turn down the plastic caps to fit in the tubing. My friend did the welding. As for using it, the optics are very good and M42 is bright and green! I think this is as big as I will go, unless I can find a bigger mirror at F4 but then you are talking about a lot of money. Kind regards, Mike.
  10. Hello. I purchased a 16" F4.7 mirror in December, it was made in 1989 by Es Reid. I built a dobsonian around it and apart from painted or varnishing it is almost done. The focuser is for a SCT and at zenith the eyepiece is just okay for me at 5ft 11". I got is out of one piece of 8X4 plywood and there are enough offcuts to finish a 10" dob that I have now finished too. The alloy tubing has plastic water pipe caps machined to fit with bolts in them. What else can I add? The mirror is very good and it is a joy to use. The mirror cell sits on three bolts, with holes and small threaded rods in, but the mirror will lift out with the 6 triangle plates and connecting bars. This is the first dob I have built that you take off the top ring to move about. The mirror is too heavy to lay the scope down, but it does stay in play when you tip it down to view. The bearings are kitchen worktop strips on the runners with telfon blocks and the base 4 small discs of a thick LP (vinyl record). Mike.
  11. All. There is an ad for a 18" mirror on ebay and it states it was made in the late 60s early 70s in Brighton. There is also a picture of the original scope with the builder of it. Does anyone know the background to this telescope? Kind regards, Mike.
  12. Hello. I resized it too much. It was not Io, do any of the other 58 moons cast a shadow when they transit? Kind regards, Mike.
  13. Hello It was not Io as all four were visible off the disc.
  14. All. I know I am a few hours ahead of you, but there one of Jupiter's moons travelling across the disc and it is not one of the big four. Does anyone know which one it is? From Riyadh, it is over the red band with the GRS in. I did try and google but could not find it. Regards, Mike MS.
  15. Thank you for the link and all the information is there. When the mirrors arrive I will be able to input the figures and go from there. Kind regards, Mike.
  16. Thank you for the link and all the information is there. When the mirrors arrive I will be able to input the figures and go from there. Kind regards, Mike.
  17. Hello. I am going to have a go at building another Dobsonian and this will be the biggest with a 16" F5 mirror. Now, because it is getting near a very tall scope, I am keen to keep the eyepiece as low as possible. If the focal length is 78" I assume if I draw a triangle with a line 90 degrees from the centre of a 16" base 78" high and then from there to each side of the base side, the secondary would have to fit on the triangle at the point it's width is that of the drawn triangle? And is there anything else I can do. I am going to angle the base at the point of the collimation base to save height there but, can I move the focuser out further. Finally, would the benefit of a bigger secondary and ease of use outweigh the larger obstruction of light? Good luck with my explanation. Kind regards, Mike.
  18. All. I guess everyone knows this already, but to align a LX90 in alt az mode, instead of having it choose alignment stars and then slewing to them, I just enter the date and time and daylight saving part and press mode when you get to the align options. With the RA and Dec clamps still off I align a bright known star, get it in the centre of the eyepiece. Then lock up the clamps, select the star as an object to be found, but instead of goto, press enter twice to centre align the star. This sets the RA and Dec co ords and the alt and az location. And because the date and time are correct it is aligned. I think to do two star alignment, you would choose the star you are on, center and then choose a second star and the scope would need to get there under the motors. I may be stating the obvious on this, sorry if this is so. I assume this would work on other scopes and mounts. To get the goto to work the mount needs to know where it is starting from, but it does not have to be driven there. Regards, Mike MS.
  19. All. Once again, I find myself out of my depth. I can get the LX90 base unit I have to work through the remote control on the autosuite software. This is the remote box on the front page and not the one via telescope / protocol / remote handset. The scope will not respond to PHD either, although it offers the autostar classic option under mount. Now I think I need to load the meade driver and maybe ascom. I have done the latter and thought I had done the former. But maybe not. I think I had an error on this. I think the hardware is okay, it works remotely and this is a driver issue. Given the lack of information above, any ideas? Kind regards, Mike.
  20. All. I have an off axis guider, I think it is an orion one, and if I remove the 1.25" nose piece from a DSI it screws onto this thread (I do not know the thread size of this). To use the off axis part with an eyepiece I need to have the dsi 30mm further out. Does anyone know where I can buy these adaptors? And if I have a camera in the off axis part, I probably need the primary camera twice as far out? Any help gratefully received. The off axis guider is on loan and is missing the adaptors, which I guess were there once. Kind regards, Mike MS
  21. Now with polar alignment tool. Okay, now with a bolt shoved down one of the dec arm holes, the sleeve of a pen pushed onto it and the laser pen slide in, but an alignment tool never the less. I will report back on the success of this. Regards, Mike.
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