Dr_Ju_ju

a few quick questions...  

1st off, if you just print the original stl model file, does it fit ok ?, 2nd what software are you using to 'form' the full model file ?, and 3rd what slicer are you using ?? 

I have to admit that I don't use resin printing, so can only offer general suggestions, but personally I would design the complete adaptor in OpenScad and then print the resultant object.

To me, it looks like auto-gain has kicked in, so raising the base noise floor ??

Personally, I'd drop the 14v down to 12v using either a regulator (7812), but the 2v difference may be problematical (they work better with a 3v difference), or even a simple resistance/12v zenner/capacitor combo....

Have look through this little lot, where I've also added the scad files etc..

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/416643-printable-custom-adapters-for-m48-to-m42/

If you want better accuracy, then I suggest that you use OpenScad to do your modelling (https://openscad.org/) e.g. nuts_and_bolts_v1.95.scad   which can be easily modified to fit your needs....

It's on Ubuntu Mate, latest LTS release, but I've removed most of the added junk including Snap, Firefox, Thunderbird, Libre Office etc. and have installed less clunky versions of app. like Firefox-esr....

I personally don't like the Debian build, so have done some frigging around to get a standard Ubuntu Mate build (22.04 Jammy) up & running but with the removal of all the snap junk etc... 

Having said that, I've installed Indi\Kstars, PHD2, Skychart, Stellarium, and all working as expected, but the weather hasn't been kind enough for me to try things out in anger....

One big gripe, for me, is the removal of the audio output connector, but keeping the second video output, which I've never used, even on the Pi4......  

Is this one of Robert Brown's designs ??, if so it would be better asking Robert directly on Source Forge (https://sourceforge.net/u/brownrb/profile/) 

As long as you are running Win10/11, versions greater than home, and I've not tried it, but it may be possible using "Virtual Desktops"..... 

While rummaging around looking for adapters to mount a ZWO_ASI_533MC camera to a SW ED80 comma corrector, and even buying some some from the wonderful FLO, all appear to work ok, but the "standard" 27.5mm spacer, comprised of the supplied (camera) M42 adapter and a 16.5mm M48/M42 adapter, put the imaging sensor much closer in to the corrector, as compared to my ZWO_ASI_1600 setup, which puts the Imaging sensor, much further back, after taking into account the OAG & Filter Wheel, and same comma corrector etc., I was wondering If I could make some custom sized adapters to test, and find the optimal adapter length.

It doesn't help much, when SW, think that the only type of camera that will be attached, to the corrector, will be a DSLR....

All the 'standard ' adapters, seem to come as a tube with an internal thread at one end, and an external screw thread at the other, but as both the comma corrector and the camera have external screw connections. M48 / M42 respectively, I was looking for a single piece adapter, tube with internal threads at both ends, which don't seem to be available anywhere....

So this got me thinking about printing a range of suitable adapters,  soooo ....   

After searching around, and trying some of the 'customisable' generic Bolt\Nut examples, to be found on Thingiverse etc. I found them ok with the 'standard' sizes of M2-M6 etc., which use a pitch size of 0.455mm, as soon as the pitch size is changed to 0.75mm (Astro spec), they failed.....

But then I came across an OpenScad (https://openscad.org/) library on YouMagine (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/openscad-metric-nut-bolt-threads-library), which worked ok after modifying, creating model files, slicing, printing etc.....

So if you want to have a play for yourself, I humbly offer the following (heavily modified) scad files with examples etc.     

Now, if only there were some clear skies....

M48-M42_12mm_Adapter.scadM48-M42_27.5mm_Adapter.stlM48-M42_27.5mm_Adapter.scadM48-M42_20mm_Adapter.stlM48-M42_15mm_Adapter.stlM48-M42_12mm_Adapter.stl

That's one of  the problems with silicon drives, they just fail with no warning  unlike spinning rust, which usually give you some warning.....

I don't save anything locally, on the imaging computers, but directly on a pair of Synology, network attached storage devices which mirror each other.

Yep, its just greed (it costs soooo much to have their brand name plastered all over it, especially for a common Chines made product....)   bearing that in mind, have a look around (eBay\Amazon et al) for a supply that provides the voltage\current\connector(s) for your locale, and you should be ok.

It's not reverse polarity, but a very simple mechanical switch that guarantees the outer '0v' connection, prior to inner +Ve connection as the plug is engaged..

A very silly question, and very late in the day, (and I don't have one of your mounts), but does the original power socket have an internal switching mechanism, that ensures no power can 'flow' till everything is firmly seated  ???

Sorry to say it, but soldering cables direct to the PCB, WILL, over time and temperature differentials, lift the track from the PCB and break connections.....

Personally, I'd attach a TY-Rap base (glue/sticky pad) adjacent to the input socket, then using a velcro ty-rap, secure the cable to the pad, leaving a small loop, so that nothing gets tangled....  

what OS is the PC running, and has it had any of the recent updates, especially for .Net ??

Personally, I'd go for a Noctua fan, which are very quiet, low vibration, if sometimes are more pricey...  (https://noctua.at/en/products/fan) 

To keep down on the clutter I've taken to keeping all the smaller stuff, in clear food container boxes, which at least let me see what's inside...

It's all been done on the cheap'ish so far, apart for a replacement camera for my ageing 600D, and some sheet ally to mount all bits & bobs, so I'm more likely to it all myself, but I'll see if there any 'shops' in the area willing to do the work ....

  ....  for the counterweights of an AZEQ6 mount  ?? .... 

Currently their are a very tatty 'whitish' colour, with rusty patches/scratches etc. so before the 'new' season starts (if lucky) in a few weeks, I thought I'd give my mount a brush & clean, and while the mount has come out ok, the counterweights, in comparison look awful so... 

Do I just sand down and respray with an enamel paint ?  or does any have better suggestions ??

Before changing the motors etc. have you check that there are no 'stickiness'  issues with the mount when the existing motors are disconnected ??

I've always used this https://www.baader-planetarium.co.uk/shop/baader-optical-wonder-fineoptical-cleaning-set-fluid-cloth/   together with a home made clean air box....

I'm sorely tempted, & envy you....

Have a look on ebay et al for a padded briefcase or similar e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364284016585 which with a little cutting should give you what your after