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D4N

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Everything posted by D4N

  1. You probably need to use a barlow lens, the 150PDS is designed to reach prime focus with a DSLR, the 150P is not. Other options are to modify the focuser, move the mirror up the tube or use a camera that can get its sensor closer to the focuser.
  2. I like the idea of repurposing things, I expect that these will be pretty bright.
  3. Yeh I have one, plus sides is it is light, small, cheap and can accept both 1.25" and 2" filters. Downsides is you need to change filters manually and there is chance of dust ingress when you do.
  4. Last time I made a major change to my imaging setup I fixed the focus indoors through the window, from there I know that the focus position will need to move in to reach infinity focus.
  5. If you are serious about imaging then get the book Making every photon count before you buy any equipment, it will save you a lot of money. The 130P won't focus a DSLR at prime focus without being modified, the 130PDS will.
  6. Theoretically it is the same number of photons being detected by 5x1' as 1x5' but in reality the longer exposures will have a better signal to noise ratio so faint data has more chance of being detected. A light get pollution filter can help a lot with a DSLR, I could manage 30 minutes with mine and a UHC-S filter. Flats will get rid of the vignetting in the corners, this in turn will make it easier to process as you won't be stretching a gradient.
  7. Star shapes all look good to me, I think this is about right for 10 minutes of data, there is just a hint of the fainter stuff starting to come through. Did you use flats?
  8. I would guess that your triplet has plenty of inward focuser travel as you would expect to use a flattener/reducer whilst imaging and a diagonal when using it for visual. I need extension tubes on my frac if I use a barlow but otherwise it is fine.
  9. Using plate solving is the best way as the software can point the scope in exactly the same place. Astro tortilla is free and can do this.
  10. Hi, your telescope is out of focus, you need to adjust the focuser which will move the eyepiece toward or away from the scope. I would recommend trying this out in the day and focusing on the furthest away thing you can find (be careful not to point anywhere near the sun though).
  11. Google USB over ip. I have done something similar with a Raspberry Pi forwarding its USB port over wifi, works ok so long as it isn't masses of data. You can either buy a device that will do the job or like I did set up a RPi to forward USB and com ports.
  12. I don't know how well the Skywatcher filter performs for imaging. With imaging it is important that the filters have coatings that prevent reflections. I have a Baader UHC-S filter, I used to use it for imaging when I used a DSLR but now I just use it for visual.
  13. Wow you did well to make a 54 pane mosaic after having all those problems. For the focusing issue, did you take the 2" adaptor off of the focuser? I've never had much fun aligning with a polar scope but then I'm quite far North so need my head on the ground to even see it. Hopefully you get your gremlins sorted out and have better luck next time out.
  14. You can use filters that increase contrast with a colour camera but as Olly says it would be a waste of time using RGB filters with a colour camera. If you live in a light polluted area a filter would be recommended to help reduce the skyglow.
  15. Yep the kids have told their mother that I should buy more telescopes so that they can play with the boxes
  16. A good quality zoom is generally better that the ep's that come with scopes.
  17. I have considered that but the setup I have on it is just a small frac' so it is all quite overkill anyway.
  18. Mine has the threaded bars cemented into the pier so only one plate required.
  19. Yes the focus is definitely off, the hollow moons is a dead giveaway. Use a bahnitov mask to get good focus on a bright star (you can make one with cardboard for nothing). Jupiter is also very over exposed. You will need two different exposures for the planet and the moons. Jupiter is really bright so needs a short exposure but the moons are dim so need a longer exposure, you can combine the two in software afterwards.
  20. I think it is much a case of getting what you pay for with eyepieces, if you buy cheap you will have poor views. Of course the best eyepieces have eye watering price tags but there is always a happy medium between what you want to pay for and what you want to get. I would say avoid cheap sets though.
  21. Ah well spotted, I missed the £75 bit. The Morpheus EP's are about £100 too much :s
  22. 2" is needed for a wide fov at lower magnification, that's why >30mm are normally just 2" as with 1.25" you will reach the point where you are reducing the magnification but not actually getting anything else into the fov. 2" also tends to feel a bit more secure in the focuser.
  23. You could get a 250PX dob for £429. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dobsonians/skywatcher-skyliner-250px-dobsonian.html The 10" explore scientific dob is around £520 but I have heard mixed reports of these. If you get something other than a dob the mount will eat most of your budget so you will end up with a lot less aperture.
  24. I don't think you need a 2" ep to get a wide fov at short focal lengths. Not sure what your budget is but the Baader Morpheus 14mm has 76° fov and 18.5mm eye relief. It also comes with both 2" and 1.25" barrels so seems to tick your boxes.
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