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Yes much too tight! I tried making them bigger by sanding but gave up, ended up forcing the thin ones on and cutting the rest... far from ideal! Maybe use them to get the correct spacing then invest in metal rings. Peter

For anyone considering purchasing a Mesu l think the mk2 has a lever system that releases the drive in both RA & Dec. Peter

Worth a few more clicks...

I used Preciseparts in the USA for a single piece part M68 male to M54 male, just tried the website but doesn't seem to be working! Looked at TS and from what I could see the 3 parts l've listed here might do it, have a look at them and see what you think. M68a-M68a all male thread 12mm long. TSM68i-M54a has M68 female to M54 male threads both 5mm long. M68Konter M68 female thread locking ring 2mm long Priced in euros total is 128.90 plus shipping. Peter

As SGPro indicated the camera lost connection you might want to make sure that the power supply to the camera is stable, also think about replacing the USB cable from the camera to the hub. Picture below is a make do fix on a flaky USB, a couple of blobs of bluetack did the trick on this occasion... works OK on my permanent setup!

Three images of the Tulip Nebula/Sh2-101 using exquipment listed below; Ha image 28x600s with SXVh9 1.4mp cooled CCD, Canon 135mm Lens @ F4 = 9.17 arcsec/pixel (image resized to 75%) OSC image 15x900s with early QHY8 6mp cooled CCd, TV-102 @ F6.9 = 2.29 arcsec/pixel (image resized to 35%) Ha image 18x900s with QHY Img2Pro 1.4mp cooled CCD, TV-102 @ F6.9 = 1.89 arcsec/pixel (image at full res.) All mounted on a Losmandy G11 with SXV guider, controlled and processed using SGPro x3, AstroArt5 and PS2 on a Window7 laptop. Peter

Have a look at the Auto Focus Opinions window first box top left, untick it.

I'm guilty of this myself... on more than one occasion!

Yes the lens is a good one, not so good was a Tamron SP 90mm F2.5 although it is secondhand so could have been dropped but has no signs of misuse! Peter

Thanks Gina, That's good information. As my first SLR was a Canon AT1 all my vintage lenses are FD mount, I'll probably test the others sometime in the future. Peter

Thanks. Here's what I used getting from the FD mount to T-mount; Canon Lens Mount Converter B (from ebay if you're lucky) this leaves you with a Leica M39 thread. M39 to T-mount M42 converter (available from SRB). T-mount rings that get you to a total of 42mm of backfocus, 10mm worked for me and I was lucky enough to already have this with the added bonus of an internal 1.25" filter thread. I probably did this the hard way! Peter

I haven't tried this combination of camera/optics but am reasonably happy with the outcome. Some of the equipment used is getting a little dated, the FD lens is 40+ years old! Peter SXV-9h Sony 1.4mp sensor Canon FD 135mm F2.5 Imaged @ F4 Baader Ha 7nm 1.25" Losmandy G11 SXV Autoguider 11x900sec. total 2.75 hours SGPro,PHD2,AstroArt5,CS2

Hi Rick I have the sitech controller version so can't help, perhaps you should contact Lucas Mesu or maybe someone else here could help. Hope you get it sorted. Peter

Thanks tomato. Last time the QHY8 went back for repair they said it was worn out from use and offered an upgrade to the new model but wanted $580+taxes, went for the $60 repair. Peter

Hi Sean, Thanks, it's 16x 15min. I bought the camera secondhand 9 years ago, believe it was 2year old at that time. The biggest problem I found with the early model (besides light pollution) was moisture inside the CCD chamber, on the newer cylinder shaped version the moisture issue seems to be sorted making it an easier camera to use. OSC secrets, plenty of long subs under a dark sky. Peter

Brought my original QHY8 out of retirement along with a G11 & TV102@f6.9 for a whirl with the propeller. Far from faultless but not bad for a vintage OSC CCD! Peter

Hi Tom, Are you still looking for help? Peter

Hi Steve, I have the exactly the same issue only difference being the mount a Mesu, no idea how to fix it! I've downloaded cartes du ciel for now but I would also be glade for information on how to get Thesky6 working with Ascom/Windows10? Peter

Hi Rod, I've been following this. Looking at you setup compaired to the one further up I'd agree that your missing that 13mm spacer between the OAG & filter wheel if you look below at the back focus for the TOA 130 I think you'll agree. Takahashi TOA-35 0.7x Reducer =71.5mm for TOA 130 Takahashi F3 0.6x Reducer =56.2mm for FSQ 106 As for the OAG remove it from your setup take the guide camera off & look down towards the prism if you can't see anything clearly through it get it replaced. Peter

Thanks for the update. Did they indicate if this would be an exernal (add on) flattener or a change from the existing rear elements of the Baby Q ? Peter