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Everything posted by jadcx

  1. You might want to also check out https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/ - I generally trust them a *little* more than eBay for astronomy gear, but as above, your budget is going to be restrictive. Another consideration for a return to visual observing (not photography) would be a decent pair of binoculars. You can see a lot (and a lot more than I expected), and they're very portable.
  2. Thanks guys - I think I’ll try the insulation tape first as I already have some
  3. Thanks - have you tried this or are your googling skills just better than mine?
  4. Thanks - I can that that could work. I had wondered about using PTFE tape but I think that would quickly get messy.
  5. Hello I was wondering of anyone has any neat and tidy ides for filling eyepiece undercuts? Specifically, I have some Baaden Hyperions which are nice and all, but a little annoying in my Tak prism as the undercut means that the collar on the prism doesn't quite tighten. And yes, I'm very happy with the Tak prism otherwise, so lets not do the whole Baader Zeiss/T2 prism discussion here One possibility is to slightly shorten the collar in the Tak but I'd rather not if there is a tidy way to 'fill in' the undercut section. J
  6. If you're serious about the imaging then I think you should look towards an EQ mount as a starting point. There is a lot of information available elsewhere on this site to point you in the right direction (see below for example): I'm not sure what scope you have, but if it's the SW 150P then you should be able to make a decent start with that, although you may want to consider other options as it probably isn't the 'easiest' way into imaging.
  7. As @Steve Clay says, you need to mount it on whichever side your firmware version supports (which I believe the standard version is on the left, as pictured by @Owmuchonomy). And no, it doesn't matter which way up the mounting screw is although it's much more accessible to mount your scope with eh screw at the top - obviously As or accuracy, this is really limited to the accuracy of the alignment process. I sometime struggle with the 'level north' process because I'm apparently not very good at finding north. Actually I think it's because I use my iPhone as a compass and it's not accurat
  8. Sounds like it will be a nice little setup when you're done. You'll also need a wedge as I think EQMOD (if that's the way you're going) only works with EQ mounts, so something else to add to your FLO Wishlist I'm trying to restrain my imagining urges and keep the GTi for visual only - although... a little USB powered ZWO would still be very portable... hmm
  9. As an Az GTi owner I can say that it's great for (all of) those times when I really couldn't quite justify / be bothered to lug out the HEQ6. It has increased my observing time considerably. I'd definitely recommend the ADM mounting upgrade, it's a two minute job to replace it and gives you much more security than the stock fitting. And depending on what you're putting on it, look at a small counterweight option. A standard M12 threaded bar (or 30mm bolt as I use) works, and any small weight you can find that fits.
  10. Any time This can be complicated to get your head around - at least I found it so.
  11. Without the flattener you will be using the ‘standard’ scope specs - which is the overall 840mm. It’s slightly confusing because (I think) the 225mm refers to what is available, not (just) what is required. So for example, you could construct an optical chain with Barlow, adapters, filter wheel, diagonal etc. which is longer than 225mm and this would not be able to reach focus (because it’s too long). So as long as you are imaging with an optical chain of less than 225mm, you will be able to reach focus (I.e. imaging plane is at 840mm) using the supplied focuser. I hope that makes s
  12. OK - that’s a clearer case You need exactly 75mm from the back of the flattener to the imaging plane of your camera. I don’t know for certain where the overall focus point will be but it is likely to be within the range of the stock focuser. The 225mm figure is irrelevant in this scenario (as this relates to use without the additional flattener).
  13. Yes it’s the same - it doesn’t theoretically matter whether you are visual or imaging, the back focus number is describing the distance to the focus plane, so whether that’s a camera or an eyepiece is not important (although each will have its own additional requirements). Imaging using a flattener is a special case as this effectively alters the light path of the scope, which is why it has a different (and very specific) figure.
  14. I always feel unreasonably nervous about firmware updates, even though I've never actually 'bricked' a device. Good luck.
  15. I align with as many stars as I can be bothered with The accuracy improves as that number increases, but depending on what I'm going to be doing, this can be less crucial. That said, I find the n-star alignment routines better than the 'level north' option, which always seems a little problematic for me. I think part of this is me using my iPhone as a compass, which probably isn't quite accurate enough near so much metal.
  16. Ha ha - I'm sure I've never done that To upgrade the firmware: You can download the latest versions from here: http://www.skywatcher.com/download/software/motor-control-firmware/ If you're not needing the EQ mode option then it looks like https://inter-static.skywatcher.com/downloads/mc014_1_motor_controller_firmware_0320.zip is the latest version. You will also need the firmware loader program, which is available form the same SW page. My memory is that running the loader program is the very straight forward / self explanatory.
  17. Hi I'm not going to claim expertise here, but I think there may be some confusion. In the case of the Esprit 120 the 75mm back focus would usually be relating to the dedicated field flattener, which requires that any attached imaging plane is spaced exactly 75mm from the end of the flattener in order to achieve focus. If you do not have the field flattener attached, then the focus point will be at whatever the focal length of the scope is (for the 120 then its 840mm from the front lens element) which is usually achievable with the stock focuser. Just to confuse the inexperienced (i
  18. You might be right about that. The idea of just uncovering and powering up is very appealing. It might also make me sort out my RPi mount control.
  19. I’m reading this thread in both excitement and fear. I’m currently not ‘allowed’ to build an observatory, so having to set up and break down every night. Maybe stupidly, I hadn’t considered leaving my ‘temporary’ setup outside. It would obviously be a game changer if the approaching dark skies could be enjoyed more often. But... what about theft? My gear isn’t as expensive as some on here of course, but if it was stolen I doubt my insurance would cover it when it transpires that I left it in the garden for a few weeks. Maybe I’m worrying unnecessarily?
  20. Starlight Xpress USB mini filter wheel including Off Axis Guiding. Now only £150 This is a great little filter wheel, ideal for compact set-ups: Starlight Xpress Mini Filter Wheel with integrated Off-Axis Guide prism The wheel is USB controlled and powered 5 x 1.25" filter positions OAG is designed to be close to par-focal with most SX cameras The SX Lodestar, SuperStar or Costar guide cameras (not included) are fully compatible T-thread front and rear - there is currently a M56 adapter fitted for direct conne
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