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Everything posted by Lee_P

  1. Oh that's a good idea, could avoid the OP needing to buy new dew heaters
  2. Bingo, I bet your issue is the front of the guidescope. You can unscrew the lens shield, and then adjust the black ring to tighten it up. This will need to be unscrewed by a particular amount in order for your view to be in focus. You can actually get your guidescope focus fairly accurate by testing it during the daytime. Just aim for something far away, like a chimney or TV aerial on a neighbour's roof. (Hopefully they won't think you're a peeping tom!) Focus loop through your ASIAIR, and make adjustments using trial and error until your view is in focus. This is easier than starting fr
  3. Oh, and you can set the gain in ASIAIR too. I think mine is 70. Edit: I've recently read that ZWO recommend a medium level gain for guidecams. Mine is now set to 30.
  4. Ok, you should be seeing stars with those settings. (When everything's working consider 2s a minimum, otherwise you're just chasing atmospheric conditions). Other things to check that are obvious but easy to forget: the lens hasn't fogged up; you're not accidentally blocking the view with your arm! Here are photos of my set-up so you can see where I've positioned the camera, and how far screwed out the front of the guidescope is. Note that I need to do more tweaks to make sure it's spot on, but this should at least ensure you're able to see stars in the first place:
  5. Taking out the filter for now is a good shout. Regarding the guidescope and camera, what exposure time are you using?
  6. Hi Simon, I've got similar kit to you and have it all working a-ok. I reckon tenpinmark has gotten you onto the right track! I believe this is the cable you need: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/lynx-astro-ftdi-eqdir-usb-adapter-for-sky-watcher-eq5-pro-heq5-syntrek-pro-az-eq5-gt-az-eq6-gt-and-eq8-mounts.html. As suggested it's always good to check with FLO. Once you get the mount properly connected to the ASIAIR, you won't need the ST4 cable -- the guidescope can do all its communicating via its USB connection to the ASIAIR. Polar Alignment can then all be done t
  7. I love Columbo! The cone spacer is the M68 to M48 adapter. It's made of metal and is very sturdy. No need to replace it.
  8. In case it's of use to anyone, I've written a review of my Askar FRA400 f/5.6 Quintuplet APO Astrograph:
  9. I recently bought an Askar FRA400 f/5.6 Quintuplet APO Astrograph. I couldn’t find much info about it in advance – the best was a thread on Cloudy Nights – so thought it might be useful to other folks to jot down some of my feedback. I’m happy to answer any specific questions or clarify any points written in this review. One-line review This is a great telescope that’s fun and easy to use, but with a few issues potential buyers should be aware of. Background I got into astroimaging a few years ago, using a Sky-Watcher Evostar 80ED DS-Pro and ASI1600 mono camera plus
  10. The ZWO EAF is great, I'd definitely recommend it if you're imaging!
  11. Hi Simmo, your query inspired me to write a review, which I hope to post later today. To answer your direct questions now though: * My focusser is ok. Not A* quality, but does the job. I've installed a ZWO EAF and that works perfectly. * Yes, flat field as the 'scope comes (i.e. without the reducer). This is a benefit of its Petzval design; no backfocus to content with. More on that in my full review! * I'm not using it with the reducer, so can't really comment on that I'm afraid. * Yes, it's good quality for the money. I have encountered a few issues but have found solutions to all
  12. Yes, I have this telescope. Might write a members' review here on SGL, as there isn't that much info out there about it. Happy to answer any questions you might have!
  13. My new Askar FRA400 f/5.6 Quintuplet APO Astrograph. Having a lot of fun with it!
  14. *£50, inc. recorded delivery to a UK address. Bank transfer or PayPal (buyer to pay fees). No offers please, the price is good!* For sale is an Astrozap Baader Solar Filter, 193mm-204mm (that's the outside diameter of the telescope including dew shield if fitted). Many 150mm telescopes are in this range. The filter has only been used a few times. It's in near-perfect condition, with original packaging and instructions. Costs £74 + p&p if bought new. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/astrozap-baader-solar-filter.html
  15. I have a conclusion to this thread After many more nights tweaking backfocus settings, I contacted FLO sent them some sample images. They sent me a replacement flattener to try, but no joy. I returned the WO ZS73, and I believe FLO may be sending it to Es Reid for tests. I bought an Askar FRA400, and everything with it works with minimal hassle. Thanks for the help offered in this thread, and FLO's excellent customer service should be noted too
  16. Thanks Alan, I'd be lost without you! To answer your question, I manually focussed before the first picture, then moved the flattener's in-built rotator to get to the other two angles. I didn't refocus between shots. I've got an autofocusser ordered, but it's taking a while because of the current stock issues. The next time the clouds part I reckon I'll try tweaking the distance a little more, and then just go for an imaging run and see what the final stacked result looks like. I dread to think what kind of precision is needed to get good corner stars on your 6200! Thanks again,
  17. @symmetalI caught a brief gap in the clouds to test the 57.5mm backfocus. I took three photos as suggested. 0 degrees: 90 degrees: 180 degrees: Those corner stars are much better than before. I tried a few more pictures after adjusting the flattener tiny amounts in each direction, but to be honest I reckon the shots above are as good as I got. Do you think I should play about some more, or am I being a pixel peeper? It's hard to tell I've got a light pollution filter, and an L-eXtreme on order, and am dreading putting them in and ha
  18. Following this because I have the same question! FYI my diagonal didn't come with an extra screw either.
  19. Thanks Alan, that's very kind of you of check. Being about 1mm out would fit with your calculation that I should be at 57.5mm rather than 56.8mm. I'm glad to hear that I don't need to mess about with the tilt! I've made the required adjustment on the flattener, just need some clear skies to check. Obviously the forecast is for complete cloud cover for the foreseeable future...
  20. Thanks Alan, you've given me the next steps to try. Now I just need some clear skies..!
  21. Thanks for the reply! It clouded over before I could investigate further. Regarding the calipers, I used them to allow for more precise adjustment of the flattener -- not that it helped..! I'm not currently using a filter. Is the "2mm protect window" an integral part of the camera? It sounds like 57.5mm is what I should be aiming for. One point to note, in my test shots sometimes one corner will seem ok, while others are bad. Could this be an indication of a sensor tilt issue? Or would backspacing explain it? Thanks again, -Lee
  22. I've officially reached the hair-tearing stage trying to get round stars to the corners of my frame, so would appreciate some help from the wise folks here! All my kit is new: WO ZS73, 0.8x flattener / reducer, and ASI2600. The backfocus should be 56.8mm, according to: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reducersflatteners/william-optics-x08-adjustable-reducer-flattener-for-zs73.html I've got the image train set up as follows: * Flattener / reducer set to 1.8mm. I used digital calipers, but it's still hard to know for sure if it's dead on. * Extender that came with the camera, 16
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