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Everything posted by Lee_P

  1. Here's another photo with the Askar FRA400, ASI2600MC-Pro, and Optolong L-eXtreme. This is proving to be a great combination even from my light-polluted city centre. * February 2021 * Bristol, UK (Bortle 8 ) * Telescope: Askar FRA400 f/5.6 Quintuplet APO Astrograph * Camera: ZWO ASI 2600MC-PRO * Filter: Optolong L-eXtreme * Mount: Orion Sirius EQ-G * Guide: William Optics 32mm; ZWO ASI 120MM Mini * Software: PixInsight, Photoshop, Lightroom, Topaz DeNoise AI * 450 x 12 seconds ------------------------------------------------------------ Total integr
  2. Dithering is a good shout, if you're able to. Ideally all your exposure lengths should be the same, so maybe you want to start again with longer lights. The exposure time for your darks should match your lights. If you take a good set of flat frames then they should be good to calibrate lights taken over imaging sessions spanning multiple nights, especially if you can keep your camera attached to the telescope (i.e. not shifting the dust around, or changing the camera's orientation).
  3. Hi from a fellow Bortle 8 imager! I’m learning PixInsight, so used that to have a crack at your data. I teased out more detail in the spiral arms, but there’s a lot of noise. I could have smoothed that out a bit, but left it in as it might help you to see it. Basically, you need to improve the signal to noise ratio by taking many more lights, and maybe using a light-pollution filter as well. Adding in flats would help with the editing too. A more experienced imager would be able to do more with your current data, but I think the key message – more data needed – would still stand
  4. Congrats, this is great! Really impressive for just an hour as well. Focussing is tough, especially using a filter like the L-eXtreme. If you've got the cash spare, I really recommend looking into an electronic autofocusser -- great for getting perfect initial focus, and also for automatic adjustments over a night when focus shifts due to temperature changes.
  5. Thanks Alan. I tried every combination in Registax, but no joy. So I tried Autostakkert as you suggested, and it worked first time
  6. Thanks Alan, I did, but possibly incorrectly. Thinking about it, Registax did say that it thought the TIFs were monochrome, which perhaps is a red flag that I messed up the debayering. Here's a screenshot of my settings:
  7. Hi SGL folks, I'm a deep sky imager (Askar FRA400 and ASI2600MC), and the other night decided to do some lunar imaging while waiting for the Orion Nebula to come out from behind my chimney. Using my ASIAIR PRO, I took an .avi video (1920x1080). I ran this through PIPP to get TIFs, which I then loaded into Registax. The images look very pixelated, as does my final edit. Below are examples. My question is, are the images pixelated because of my telescope and camera combination (i.e. it's to be expected because I'm using a wide-field rig for lunar); or have I done something wrong in my pre-p
  8. I'd say you're making really good progress! The sub length will depend on your camera. I use five-minute subs as standard. Maybe start with that and see? In a single sub you should be able to make out the nebula in ASIAIR's autostretched preview, but it won't look stunning. That's what stacking and processing is for!
  9. Also, the L-eXtreme works well even with a bright Moon. You get some gradients but they're manageable. I reckon you've got things working well enough now that you can put the filter back into the imaging train. Just remember that you'll need much longer exposures, including for focussing. The L-Extreme let me get this image of the Soul Nebula a few nights ago (6 hours integration time), even with a bright Moon nearby:
  10. Congrats, that's working perfectly. Having very green images after stacking is normal, and to be expected. The clue is in the Bayer Pattern -- RGGB. That's a lot of G! You balance it out in post-processing. Here's an autostretch of your stack using PixInsight, it gives a rough indication of what you'll get once you balance the green:
  11. Congrats on getting the hardware working! I suspect (but am not sure) that your new issue is caused by your DSS settings. If you could somehow get your individual subs to me (via Google Drive or Dropbox maybe) then I could have a go at stacking them myself and see if I can get a colour result.
  12. That's right, no need for the ST4 cable. It sounds like your cable arrangement is correct. When connected to the ASIAIR PRO, your Mount should be "EQMod Mount". At least, that's what it is on mine
  13. It's a tough choice as the gap between mono and OSC has narrowed recently. Maybe that means that both are good options! All things being equal, mono would offer higher quality, but I went OSC and L-eXtreme for the convenience of a simpler imaging workflow and making the most of gaps in the UK's cloudy skies. I'd recommend thinking about how long you plan on using your new camera for before you'll likely want an upgrade -- for me, maybe five years or so. Then think about what option will best suit you over that specific timeframe. I may well go back to mono in the future, but for now OSC suits
  14. Oh that's a good idea, could avoid the OP needing to buy new dew heaters
  15. Bingo, I bet your issue is the front of the guidescope. You can unscrew the lens shield, and then adjust the black ring to tighten it up. This will need to be unscrewed by a particular amount in order for your view to be in focus. You can actually get your guidescope focus fairly accurate by testing it during the daytime. Just aim for something far away, like a chimney or TV aerial on a neighbour's roof. (Hopefully they won't think you're a peeping tom!) Focus loop through your ASIAIR, and make adjustments using trial and error until your view is in focus. This is easier than starting fr
  16. Oh, and you can set the gain in ASIAIR too. I think mine is 70. Edit: I've recently read that ZWO recommend a medium level gain for guidecams. Mine is now set to 30.
  17. Ok, you should be seeing stars with those settings. (When everything's working consider 2s a minimum, otherwise you're just chasing atmospheric conditions). Other things to check that are obvious but easy to forget: the lens hasn't fogged up; you're not accidentally blocking the view with your arm! Here are photos of my set-up so you can see where I've positioned the camera, and how far screwed out the front of the guidescope is. Note that I need to do more tweaks to make sure it's spot on, but this should at least ensure you're able to see stars in the first place:
  18. Taking out the filter for now is a good shout. Regarding the guidescope and camera, what exposure time are you using?
  19. Hi Simon, I've got similar kit to you and have it all working a-ok. I reckon tenpinmark has gotten you onto the right track! I believe this is the cable you need: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/lynx-astro-ftdi-eqdir-usb-adapter-for-sky-watcher-eq5-pro-heq5-syntrek-pro-az-eq5-gt-az-eq6-gt-and-eq8-mounts.html. As suggested it's always good to check with FLO. Once you get the mount properly connected to the ASIAIR, you won't need the ST4 cable -- the guidescope can do all its communicating via its USB connection to the ASIAIR. Polar Alignment can then all be done t
  20. I love Columbo! The cone spacer is the M68 to M48 adapter. It's made of metal and is very sturdy. No need to replace it.
  21. In case it's of use to anyone, I've written a review of my Askar FRA400 f/5.6 Quintuplet APO Astrograph:
  22. I recently bought an Askar FRA400 f/5.6 Quintuplet APO Astrograph. I couldn’t find much info about it in advance – the best was a thread on Cloudy Nights – so thought it might be useful to other folks to jot down some of my feedback. I’m happy to answer any specific questions or clarify any points written in this review. One-line review This is a great telescope that’s fun and easy to use, but with a few issues potential buyers should be aware of. Background I got into astroimaging a few years ago, using a Sky-Watcher Evostar 80ED DS-Pro and ASI1600 mono camera plus
  23. The ZWO EAF is great, I'd definitely recommend it if you're imaging!
  24. Hi Simmo, your query inspired me to write a review, which I hope to post later today. To answer your direct questions now though: * My focusser is ok. Not A* quality, but does the job. I've installed a ZWO EAF and that works perfectly. * Yes, flat field as the 'scope comes (i.e. without the reducer). This is a benefit of its Petzval design; no backfocus to content with. More on that in my full review! * I'm not using it with the reducer, so can't really comment on that I'm afraid. * Yes, it's good quality for the money. I have encountered a few issues but have found solutions to all
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