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hutchyweb

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    52
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About hutchyweb

  • Rank
    Nebula

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  • Website URL
    http://www.eeac.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Astronomy or anything Geeky!
  • Location
    Burnham-on-Crouch - Essex
  1. Hi and Welcome! I'm from Burnham and run the East Essex Astronomy Club. It would be great to see you there check out www.eeac.co.uk for info on our meets and talks.
  2. Hi guys, you've probably hear this before but i have a 250PDS on an NEQ6 and I've been Finder Guiding but now I've brought a SW off-axis guider but for some reason i cant get focus in my EOS 450D. I've wound the mirror up as much as i dare but i still cant seem to gain focus. Does anyone out there use one or do you have any suggestions i could try? Thanks
  3. Just what i need! I've ordered the bits and i'll do the build this weekend Thanks
  4. I was pointed in the right direction and it was a simple check box in VS2013 under properties / compile / Register for COM interop. My driver is well under way now
  5. I like what your doing, I am building a feature packed focus controller to work with my SkyWatcher motor but I am having issues getting the ASCOM templates to work in Visual Studio. I'll let you know when I get it working it might help you on your quest.
  6. Philips SPC900NC Cooling This mod and others are available on my blog Parts Required Philips SPC900NC WebCam Astro WebCam nose piece Project Box (60mm x 40mm x 80mm) 3x 12mm M2 bolts 1x M2 Nut 1x M2 Washer 1x Toggle Switch 40mm 5v Fan 40mm Finger Guard Modification Process 1. Remove focuser or nose piece from the WebCam 2. Remove the side covers of the WebCam - these are only stuck on. 3. Using a small screw driver push in the two clips on each side and open up the case 4. Now do the same for the grey insert 5. Disconnect the internal USB cable to remove the front part of the camera (Imaging boards) 6. Remove the two small screws (top and bottom of this image) 7. Now remove the two outer screws so you can separate the boards 8. Here I have tested an M2 bolt to ensure the thread is the same 9. Separate the boards 10. With in the back part of the case twist the USB cable 90° and remove through the hole 11. Mark the project box where you want to mount the fan - I've used the lid 12. Drill a pilot hole for the fan and drill 4 2.5mm hols for mounting the fan 13. Using a hole cutter cut a 38mm hole for the fan aperture 14. Mount the fan and fan guard 15. Drill a pilot hole for the WebCam lens mount bracket to go through 16. Next drill the hole for the lens mount bracket 17. Drill some vent holes to allow the air to escape, also drill holes for the switch, USB cable and 3 holes for mounting the WebCam boards Note: I have drilled the vents at the opposite end to the fan but the same end as the WebCam thus forcing the air to pass over the imaging chips rather than just out the holes. 18. Install the switch and bottom webcam board 19. Connect up and solder the 5v Fan to the switch and the first and last pin of the USB connector (5v power) 20. Mount the top board on the bottom and connect the USB cable 21. Close and screw on the lid and your finished. END OF PROCESS
  7. Hartmann Mask Parts Required (for 8" Newtonian reflector) 10" x 10" sheet 6mm Ply Sticky Velcro 3 x right angle brackets 3 x 15mm screws 3 x Old mastic nozzles 3 x M4 washers What is a Hartmann mask and how does it work? A Hartmann Mask is a simple device consisting of a set of holes in an opaque lens cover. The out of focus images generated by each hole merge when the telescope is in focus. They operate much in the same manner as an optical rangefinder found on rangefinder cameras. The device goes by two different names, with Hartmann mask describing a mask with multiple holes and Scheiner disk describing a mask with 2 holes. It was apparently invented by Christoph Scheiner in 1619, but is most commonly called a Hartmann mask today. Build Process 1. Measure the outer diameter for the font of the scope (mine was 9.25 inches approx.) 2. Mark the centre of the 10" x 10" ply 3. Using a compass mark the circumference for both the mirror diameter and the outer diameter of the scope 4. From the centre with a ruler draw a line out to the mirror diameter then using a protractor and a ruler draw 2 more lines out from the centre at 120° to each other. 5. Here I have tested different sizes of holes, 50mm and 60mm 6. Once you have worked out what size you want the holes dill a pilot hole in the centre of where the large holes will be. 7. Using a hole cutter cut out the holes (64mm used here - 2.5 inches), then using a jig saw cut round the outer diameter line. 8. Using the screws washer and brackets attach the barckets to the mask. 9. Here I have drilled a 6mm hole in the centre of the mask so that I can shine a light through and adjust the mask to dead centre. 10. Attach the sticky Velcro to the inside of the brackets, I put an extra soft bit facing out to protect the side of the scope. 11. Snip the end of some mastic nozzles to go over the screws to protect your fingers and the scope. 12. The finished mask. END OF PROCESS (Enjoy!)
  8. Thanks for you nice comments guys, Apparently reading a few articles it seems to be more affective to have a rear fan as side fans don't cool the mirror as well, where as "apparently" a rear fan does both jobs some astronomers have removed the side fans and added a rear fan. I've add the "Apparently" as I haven't used it yet but I plan to tomorrow. The fan is a super quite low vibration fan and I added a speed controller to I could tweak the speed and keep any vibration down to a minimum. I keep my scope in doors as I do a lot of DIY and don't want to get dust in scope, when I finish the renovations I will probably change my mind.
  9. Hi Craig Welcome to SGL, I to started off with a 130M and i was really please with it, but started to push the optics to their limits quite early so decided to upgrade after a couple of months. (Check out my blog I've started which may help you out - link in signiture) Jupiter is not that big at the moment and is getting smaller as it moves away. The dot and lines are the secondary mirror assembly which means you havent yet found prime focus. start with just the 25mm eyepiece and you should see jupiter a small disk with a couple of moons, get it in the center and then pop the 10mm eyepiece in so the same then 25mm + barlow and then finally the 10 + the barlow. If you havent setup the motor drive and aligned to polaris you will have to move quick as jupiter will not say in your eyepiece for long. There are some images on my blog gallery that i took with the 130m and a rubish webcam but i should give you an idea. Feel free to email me via my blog or PM from here, i am only 5 months in myself but learning fast by my mistakes. Dont give up, keep trying
  10. Newtonian Reflector Cooling Fan This mod is also availalbe on my blog 92mm 12v fan (eBay – £5.56) 92mm fan finger guard (eBay – £1.78) 12v fan speed controller (eBay – £4.13) 3mm Black acrylic A3 sheet (eBay – £5.20) 2mtr 12v cigarette lighter extension lead (eBay – £3.88) Sticky Velcro (eBay - £2.39) 12v in-line switch - Optional (eBay - £1.95) Why cool a Newtonian? The resolution of a Newtonian telescope will improve by forcing ambient airflow over the primary mirror, usually with one or more small fans. The wave front of light will be deformed as it passes through a very subtle temperature difference near the face of the primary mirror that is known as 'The Boundary Layer' and it's effects are significant. For most locations on Earth, even a small Newtonian's primary mirror will not track the falling night time temperature closely enough unless fans are used. The fan needs to do three things :- 1. Cool the primary 2. Remove the boundary layer from the front of the primary. 3. Remove tube currents. A rear mounted fan with a baffle does all three jobs simultaneously (providing you primary mirror is vented as below). It can be quite interesting to turn the fan off when the mirror appears fully cooled - the views go softer after about 15 seconds - that's the boundary layer reforming. Build Process 1. My SkyWatcher 200P has a rear diameter of 218mm (inside the external lip). Ensure you leave adequate room and drill a 3mm pilot hole in the A3 sheet of acrylic. (mine was 109mm from one edge along a center line). 2. Place a block of wood under the acrylic and put a nail (3mm preferably) through the pilot hole into the wood. Using a marker pen and some wire or string set the radius and mark the circumference of the size of the baffle reqired. 3. Using a protractor and a ruler mark three lines from the centre at 120° each, these will be for the collmation bolt cutouts. 4. Using a 38mm hole cutter cut three circles out of the acrylic where the lines from the centre point meet the outer circumference. 5. With a fine toothed blade in a jigsaw cut along the outer circumference line. 6. Test the fit and trim if needed. 7. Using a 89 mm hole cutter and using the pilot hole as a guide cut a hole out of the centre of the acrylic. 8. Snip off the cigarette socket from the extension lead and strip the ends, then snip the power connector off of the speed controller. Connect the fan and the speed controller up to a 12v supply and ensure everything is working ok. The yellow wire on the power connector is not required and can be cut short. 9. Drill 4 5mm holes in the acrylic to mount the fan and check it aligns ok. 10. Drill additional holes for the fan, power and speed controller cables to pass through. 11. Remove the film from both sides of the acrylic and pass the power cable through the hole and tie a knot in it so it wont pull through. 12. Snip the other cables to length and pass them through their corresponding holes. 13. Remove the backing on the sticky pad on the speed controller and stick it to the acrylic. 14. Strip the ends on the cables and twist the corresponding cables together and then solder. 15. Cover the soldered ends with shrink tube and shrink for a tight fit. 16. Give both sides of the fan assembly a wipe before attaching to the scope as you don't want to blow any dust into it. 17. Stick some sticky Velcro to the base of the scope and to the fan assembly (don't stick too many as it my be difficult to remove the fan assembly from the scope). 18. The finished fan assembly running and cooling the scope. OPTIONAL: I have ordered a switch to add into the power cable in case I want to turn the fan off for any reason with out disconnecting it from the power supply. END OF PROCESS (Enjoy!)
  11. Still struggled a little last night with getting the reticule and the hour angle of Polaris right, should i be matching up the reticule with what i see when I'm NOT looking through the polar scope as the FOV is not wide enough to get the big dipper in as well?
  12. Hi Everyone, I have the Polar Finder app on my Android phone and there is a setting for 'Reticule Type' which has the options Naked Eye/SkyWatcher/etc... When I select SkyWatcher it flips the image (as expected) and changes the hour angle (I would guess 180deg on the clock so to speak). My real question is when I set the date/time and location on my SynScan if gives me an hour angle for Polaris which is the same the Naked Eye setting, which should I be using Naked eye/SkyWatcher or should I ditch the app and just stick with the SynScan? Cheers
  13. Oh ok, I'd seen a few videos on the net about how to polar align and they all had the Polaris circle at the bottom but if it doesn't really matter than I'd rather leave it alone. Thanks everyone
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