bruno

sorry for the late reply, It seems to be something that MS has done in win 10 after reading a few online forums, i believe i can take the colour from an image and save it to the pallet in affinity.

HI G vibrance doesn't do anything as the colour is already embedded, I need to alter the colour palette to change the colour from Salmon pink to a deeper red

thanks Peter, where will i find that?

If you bought this new, it should come with all the spacers to achieve 55mm backfocus, it also comes with a little manual showing different setups if not it can be found on the ZWO website. Just measure from the sensor to the focuser, if you're using a filter the body is counted as a spacer but i think you have to add 1mm for the filter lens? There is a diagram somewhere showing if backfocus has been achieved I hope this helpful in some way, & others will come along with further/ better info Bruno

Hi Does anyone with affinity photo know how to change the colours in the swatches as they are a bit insipid especially the red (more of a Salmon colour). When i was creating an RGB image the red hardly comes through. thanks for any info Bruno

cheers Happy Kat have managed to get the connection (by setting the time and date on the H/set) but controls not working will delete Stellarium and start again. thanks for your input Bruno.

Hi I have managed to get a connection between my mount (cem26) and Stellarium, but the controls dont work everything has been updated am i missing something or else. The mount will work in panel mode using the keyboard. Thanks in Anticipation Bruno

I've tried to connect the WiFi to stellarium, but when I added my mount and tried to connect it just says connecting & I get the circle on polaris but no scope name have i missed something?

take the 1.25 adapter out of the diagonal and connect it direct to the focusing tube, insert the camera and connect camera to l/top via sharpcap or zwo studio? adjust the focuser until you get an image ( there should be an auto button to help you but you may have to play with the exposure sliders till you get a clear sharp image. hope this gets you started Bruno.

I found that before i do any polar alignment i would open sharpcap & get an image /focus with my guide camera, then do a polar align for the mount (your not messing about trying to focus when already aligned). connect the ST4 cable to the camera & mount, guide cam should already be connected to l/top. Connect camera to L/top and power supply ( you can get a dummy battery that plugs into the mains, ebay) you don't have to connect camera to L/top if just using the SD card noticed a intervelometer sat on the mount connect to PHD & connect Guide cam & mount & i think it's Aux On mount. that should get it going.

If you get your polar alignment near perfect you should get about 2mins guiding, without a guide camera.

this is a good watch :

Sorry for the late reply Lock042, I have uploaded a screen shot of the photometric box i want to shrink so i can see all the buttons, i also wanted to shrink the main screen slightly it did let me adjust it a little bit. I have have my computer set on the 100% recommended & i have managed to pull the corners in very slightly, it just the photometric screen there seems to be no adjustment at all the image below is all i get the last time i used it i could not see the OK button. Thanks Bruno

Hi Vlaiv google FAQS for Siril there a few questions (with answers) on there, done it for you Siril - FAQ hope you find your answer on it

Stargazer 33 That was one of the first things i checked for but the resolution is ok & it's just for windows and not Siril thanks for taking your time to answer, Bruno Alicante i watched the video, and i had previously tried that solution but as i had seen it done on your video i tried it again and it worked to some degree I can now see some of the buttons, but it I still can't alter the astrophotometry box what I will do is a reinstall see if that changes anything as this has only happen since i have up graded. thanks for taking the time to answer Bruno.

HI Does anyone know how to reduce the size of the screen in Siril as it is too big for the screen and i can't see any of the buttons (pressing the minimise button doesn't help & also when i open the Colour calibration panel for it to do a plate solve and get the colours the OK button is hidden out of site so i can't use it i would have to do a calibration manually. Thank for any info Bruno

you could make it a starless image (starnet ++) a free program?

I take it by work on your captures you mean processing your images, you could run them through SIRIL (free) Bodes Galaxy.tiffthen just touch them up in PsE12, i have Affinity photo (still learning) £50quid. you can get photoshop £10 a month, Gimp free, pixinsight very good very expensive or there is Nebulosity which is a capture and processing. Hope this gives you a start

I find that i connect the cables the go into the ascom diagnostics program as it has to see the mount you might find that you have to redo it everytime you run your mount it doesn't seem to save it's just remembering to do it.

looks over processed but a good image, you don't say how many images you took, I'm crap at processing so i usually do them in SIRIL then tweak them in Affinity studio.

I used to have a similar problem, it was the Ascom diagnostic tool that should be on your desktop, have a look at that, look under tools and select telescope chooser using.net , you will find it is set on simulator use the drop down and change to Ioptron Cem 60/40 GEM45 no need to click on properties as it is run by Ioptron commander which will then connect. Hope this helps as i have spent months ripping my hair out over this

thanks for the reply will try that

Does anyone on here use Nebulosity as their imaging program with a OSC, if so what gain do you use i have a zwo 533 pro. My issue is that the gain is in percentage but the counter is in numbers so i have been setting the numbers to 150 which equates to 25% if i go higher the image starts to blow out. It looks ok but i just want to know if I'm doing too much, i also use an offset of 60. Many Thanks

have a read of this: Optical aberrations: how to fix errors in your telescope - BBC Sky at Night Magazine

I don't know if this will help but i have seen online somewhere what to expect when you have spacing issues from what i can remember if it is too much the stars will look as if they are trailing one way & if it is not enough the trail will be the other way. Also i read that you had to make allowances for the thickness of the filter, so if the spacing for your camera is 55mm you have to add another 1mm for the filter. Hope this helps