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mulder85

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About mulder85

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    Thessaloniki, Greece
  1. Perfect, all my questions on this are covered now. Thank you @vlaiv and anyone else who contributed.
  2. Thanks @vlaiv, lots of useful ideas and suggestions there. Three things to note: 1) I thought dark/bias/flats) are not required for planetary work, but I suppose a perfectionist would do these too. 2) Never thought about that sensor center targeting. Because I don't have a GOTO, currently I just find the target and let it slip from one side of the screen to the other, then repeat again and again(PIPP takes care of it afterwards). I suppose all this is taking its toll both in vibration (from moving the scope) and not being centered on the sensor. 3) I think I keep forgetting about how big seeing factor is. I am also confident that if i take this equipment back to my little village which is ten times darker, it will have an impact, even if it is just planetary photo. Thanks again
  3. Thanks a lot for both your explanations. Apparently I had it all wrong, thinking that the same rules apply. Is there a formula that helps calculate that sweet spot of pixel density for a specific target(Jupiter or Saturn for example)?
  4. Hello all, Disclaimer for all: I am still a newbie so good chance this is a bad question, but I was hoping for an explanation anyway. I've got a SkyWatcher 8" (1200mm FL) Dobsonian (manual, no GOTO). So far, I am mostly interested in visual and AP planets. I have recently started gradually upgrading my equipment. Got a ZWO ASI 224MC, and a TV Powermate 2.5x (hoping to get an HEQ5 mount soon too). Here is where the baffling happens. According to math, my scope's potential magnification is 400x (200mm aperture x2). Obviously that is supposed to be theoretical, true only for nights with perfect seeing, and in the past, using a typical 2x barlow and a 6mm plossl, I could touch that 400x (1200x2 /6 = 400) , and my mileage would vary according to seeing, so it verified the hypothesis. Along came my new equipment, the camera and the powermate. The maths for this produce a magnification of 491x (1200x2.5 / 6.1mm) which by far exceed the theoretical maximum. I was, however, able to produce the attached planetary pics, which I think are pretty decent for a manual dobsonian, considering I have still not fully mastered the art of stacking and processing, and the fact that they were taken from within the city (Thessaloniki, Greece). I have also noticed that visually, when using the Powermate and the 6mm eyepiece (500x zoom), it still looks as clear as, if not clearer than the common 2x barlow and 6mm eyepiece combo(400x). So I guess these are my questions: 1. When doing AP, is the maximum zoom we can use higher than for visual, because of stacking, or not? 2. Is there a chance that the TV Powermate can implicitly increase the theoretical max magnification, because of its superior quality? 3. Would adding a motorized mount, enhance the results I get, or have I pretty much reached the absolute max quality shots I can get with the specific OTA? Thanks a lot in advance, Alex
  5. Thanks again, that's a ton of material totally related to what I want to do. I'll use those as reference too. Indeed it seems like if you don't remove the mountings, you can't place the OTA at a convenient angle for eyepieces, and therefore visual stuff. But I suppose I could decide later on removing them or not.
  6. All, Thank you very much for your thoughts, suggestions and examples. It seems that the consensus among you is that it is doable, quite challenging at times, and will not produce awesome results, but will do fine as an interim solution. In any case, a couple years from now, if this works well, I plan to buy another OTA, more specialized for DSO, so at the moment, any DSO I might do will be short exposure only. @vlaiv: Are the Dob mountings removable without further complications? I guess if they are glued to the tube you can't re-use it as a Dob later, right?
  7. Hello, I am sorry in advance if this specific subject has been discussed before, but couldn't find it. In any case, I need your wisdom I am a proud owner of the best-seller Skywatcher 200P Dobsonian (8" 203mm aperture, 1200mm FL). Like many, I started relatively cheap because I wanted to know if I'd love the hobby or not. Turns out I did. Also like many, after the first few months of pure visual joy, I got incepted with the idea of AP. A couple years later, I am using a DSLR, a ZWO ASI 224MC and recently a TV Powermate 2.5x. These have all been incrementally improving the quality of my shots, which are planetary only for now. The big elephant in the room is that this specific OTA is not ideal for AP, especially planetary. However I am thinking of moving on to the next step, and acquiring an HEQ5, to convert and put the Dob 8" OTA on it for visual and AP. Here is where I would like your opinion. Do you think that would be a waste? I have heard that this tube being so big, heavy and bulky, would push the HEQ5 at its limits for visual, and a NO NO for AP, especially with heavy powermates and the ZWO on it. Is that true? And, assuming it is true, should I completely ditch the Dob, and focus on choosing a new better OTA? I was hoping to do that incrementally for practical and monetary reasons, for example this year doing the conversion, and 1-2 years from now getting a proper tube. However if it turns out to be a waste, I would like to avoid that path. Honest opinions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Alex
  8. Thanks for the valuable info again. Since I am mostly interested in planetary viewing and imaging, I wouldn't want to invest a lot of money on High mm eyepieces. therefore I was thinking of getting a 15mm Plossl. Considering that 25mm worked for EP and 10mm didn't, do you think a 15mm could solve the darkness issue, or do I have to go even higher at 20mm? That's cutting it pretty close to my already existing 25mm so the magnification would not be as exciting as I'd want. In any case, on a more general note, do you think that that the Original Skywatcher 25 and 10mm eyepieces supplied with the telescope are useless? Should I do my best to replace them? Alex
  9. Thanks again. Now I got it right. So it's the eyepiece. Have you got a specific eyepiece to recommend on the 15-20mm range, that would work well with my EP setup, without breaking the bank? Thanks, Alex
  10. Thanks for the reply Cornelius. I will surely have a look at those. The way you put it, it seems that the root cause is that the 10mm eyepiece increases the f to huge numbers, near pitch black, and that's why I can't see anything? In that case, Would buying a an eyepiece of between 15-20mm be better? If I buy a variable EP adapter instead and still use the 10mm eyepiece, can I achieve a good result by decreasing the magnification via the variable valve? Thanks, Alex
  11. Hello all, I've got a Skywatcher 8" Dob, Canon 1200D, and the usual accessories for EP(T-Ring, EP adapter). I have tried using a 25mm eyepiece on it and the results were ok, but the amount of magnification was no more than Prime Focus with a 2x Barlow. So I tried using my 10mm eyepiece. The result is that I don't seem to be able to see anything when I do that. Eternal blackness and blurriness. Can't focus on anything. In fact I just can't see anything to focus on! I suppose the issue has been mentioned before, but I was wondering if you guys know of this issue and could possibly provide solutions. What is the problem? Do I need to use on of those variable length EP adapters instead(mine is fixed) ? Do I need to add a Barlow in the middle? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! Alex
  12. Hi guys, Once again, thank you all for your buying advice. I bought the 8 inch skywatcher dobsonian. It was quite easy to assemble, but I made a terrible n00b mistake. For the first 1.5 day I thought something is wrong with it, because I couldn't see a single thing, not even align the scope, because everything was very very blurred. In the end I realized I had actually inserted both adapters ( a bigger one and a smaller one), before the eyepiece. I removed one and suddenly it all came to view!I even managed to catch a small glimpse of Mars. Silly mistake, I know, but bare in mind I am all alone in this, noone to help me physically. What does the second adapter serve anyway? And what is its proper name?the manual simply calls them both "Adapters".... Thanks! Alex
  13. Rich, Good point about the balcony. But I have a rooftop option on the same building as well so my idea is to use it on the balcony most of the time and then once in 2-3 times take it upstairs to the rooftop, where such restrictions does not exist. Alright last beginner's questions for now. 1)Is a moon filter worth to be bought from Day 1, or should I wait and see how I am seeing it before I determine I need one? 2)And if yes, any (not overly expensive) suggestions ? 3)Do planets need special filters for maximum clarity too? Thanks, Alex
  14. @guillermobarancos:thanks, i think it's pretty much settled for this one now. @ronin : i've always wondered how these clubs work. Do i just show up there? Or register? Or what? Central London is within reach as I live in Croydon, but since I don't have a car yet, I wouldn't be able to bring my equipment there :/ Thank Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I see, well these are surely insightful tips. To be honest I have so many "foreign words" that I have to google in most of you people replies, but I suppose that's natural. Is there a specific learning curve that you could propose for learning how to use a telescope properly? Any fast-learning tips? Thanks
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