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About Johnny666666

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    Film-making, Audio, Photography, Music
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  1. Hi all, sorry I've been away for a while but I've been busy with other things... One thing I have an interest in is making films and I've had reasonable successes on the amateur scene. In summer I began making a short documentary about buying a new telescope and capturing images with it, and I need to revive the project in order to finish it for certain competition dates. The idea was to film the setting-up and 'capturing' of images from the telescope, then add my processed images at the end. These would then have been updated with better images over the course of next year when I should have
  2. I think I've read several times that the EQ3.2 can just about manage 30 second exposures when set up well, so I don't think I'm far off maximum. I'll wait for another clear night and have a second bash at DARV, just to confirm I'm doing it correctly. Unfortunately I have no permanent position for the telescope so I have to put it all together and tackle down after the end of a session. It's no real hardship, just a bit of a pain. Once I've got the 15 - 30 second exposures cracked I'll start experimenting with stacking software, presumably detail can be teased out of faint images in a similar w
  3. Thanks, though you have give me more information and further things to try! In truth my exposures of 30 seconds are beginning to show elongated stars, and I was quite surprised at this when I thought the drift aligning was more accurate. The images I posted are 10 and 15 seconds, beyond this they do show signs of inaccurate tracking. If I can get longer exposures I can ease off with the ISO settings and get less noisy images. I'm not sure what you mean by: "A star to the east near the celestial equator, I use a star at least 20degrees above the horizon." Isn't the celestial equator exactly on
  4. I think the stars I chose were pretty near to your suggestions, surrounding houses, fences etc means that 'low down' to the South is about 40 degrees for me, and West I am able to get a bit lower, probably quite close to 20 degrees above the horizon. Perhaps I should've made that clearer. I also think the two methods we are using are the same, though I stand to be corrected if I'm wrong. Bear in mind I don't use a computer or any software. I use the camera in Bulb mode, with the telescope tracking at single rate for a few seconds in order to create the blob of the starting position. When the m
  5. Hi to everyone Following my last (abysmal) attempt at imaging M13 I thought I'd try again, but followed advice from friends on SGL and made a few modifications. Firstly I tightened everything on the tripod, then bought a Bahtinov Mask (what a brilliant piece of kit) and also the Skywatcher Auto Focuser to fit the single speed focusing rack on the 150P to eliminate vibrations when adjusting focus. I set up, levelled the tripod and polar aligned, then thought I'd have a go at drift alignment, as detailed by Robert Vice. Note: all the DARV images below are unprocessed apart from resampling the i
  6. Thank you so much for your kind offer, David - I'll certainly keep it in mind I have a few simple mods I want to try at basically 'low cost' but in the meantime I'll have another bash at the existing set-up and see how I get on. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong somewhere and if I'm setting up on the patio again (I have very little choice) then I'll ensure I'm not moving anywhere when exposing. To be honest, I wanted a set-up that was 'intermediate' and capable of good results to see if the bug bit, then in a couple of years if I still feel the same way then I would like something far better
  7. Hi and thanks for the replies Well, the mount seems to check out OK and any perceived stickiness is apparently nothing untoward (it's my first scope so I have nothing to reference it to!) We did notice that there was some play in the backlash of the Dec gearing which has now been dealt with although the RA motor seems fine. The RA lock has also been slightly adjusted to disengage more. I've said I'll go through a series of checks the next opportunity I have - such as any backlash or stickiness when operating either the Dec or RA motors and changing direction, and also see how smoothly the mou
  8. Thank for the reminder - I often forget the planets are in their own orbit! Such is the curse of a newbie Hi Louise, Aside from the focusing issue I do trigger the camera from a 5 metre remote control, but I now realise I might not have been standing far enough away - or at least that's something I need to be aware of next time. The camera can be controlled via WiFi with an app for a smartphone or tablet, but unfortunately I have neither and the app/program doesn't work on humble laptops as far as I know. Off to RVO in a few minutes so hopefully they can do something with the mount, if that
  9. Thanks everyone :-) Yes I realise focus isn't brilliant - this is something else I am having issues with but I just wanted to capture something for the first time other than the moon or a planet as the exposures etc are quite different. It was more of an experimental shot to be honest to see how accurately the mount would follow the stars. I polar align using the astronomy shed technique and haven't really had any issues with it although I've noticed my videos of Saturn and Mars lately have been drifting across the camera frame over the course of a couple of minutes so again something isn't ri
  10. Hi to everyone, As it was such a clear night on Saturday I tried for the first time to image a DSO, namely M13. I had previously levelled the tripod and polar aligned as best I could (I'm not yet at the stage where I have had a play at drift alignment) but managed to grab a few shots. The results are disappointing to say the least because even a 5 second exposure shows what appears to be star trails. However, looking at the images in the cold light of day I'm not convinced that it's simply misalignment. I've attached an image of crops of M13, the left hand image was 20 seconds exposure, the ri
  11. Very interesting point about the extra thumbscrews! I have often wondered about the effect on the image all this stacking of adaptors has - I have sometimes noticed on the 150P a small amount of play, depending what combination of adaptors I use. With time I will replace some combinations with purpose designed adaptors. Sorry for the extra questions: You mentioned the Baader MKIII gives a 'better field' than the Skywatcher - do you mean quality of image or wider angle? I assume the 0.9x reduction of the SW CC gives a slightly wider field of view than the 130PDS would be capable of in prime foc
  12. Cool! I didn't think there would be any issues but I just wanted to know someone else had tried it first! Many thanks
  13. Hello to everyone, I have a SW EQ3.2 mount which I've motorised, but I'm finding the cables inconveniently short between the handset and the motor. I believe they are RJ11 connections so I'm wondering whether anyone has tried using short extension cables, say 2 or 3m length? Many thanks in advance
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