Jump to content

SkySurveyBanner.jpg.21855908fce40597655603b6c9af720d.jpg

Owmuchonomy

Members
  • Posts

    3,718
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Owmuchonomy

  1. Saturday was so beautiful up at the Obsy that we decided to introduce the visitors to Solar viewing before the presentation.  Here are a few shots.  The Solar images are using my Lunt and ASI174MM with and without a 2.5 x TV Powermate.  The visitors were a large group from the local Glamping Village and we received a lovely review following the session.  Today, it's snowing here!

    IMG_4685.thumb.JPG.1189d3f47816b33cd2b297c9d427f7dc.JPG

    IMG_4684.thumb.JPG.ebb0ffbe7bae08b4744d8c2304d71fc7.JPG

    1484391792_Fulldiskjpeg.jpg.fc2400f472f70780950e48adaebb7cc2.jpg

    1006162273_Sectionjpeg2.jpg.a9fbcd07a007e6a7f2ad3d52a2ca1992.jpg

    1228101561_Sectionjpeg.jpg.741ee94afb6ed246f6e112bb812a7218.jpg

     

     

     

    • Like 5
  2. On 21/11/2021 at 17:45, PeterC65 said:

    I've come to realise that I need to sit with a comfortable EP position and really observe an object for several minutes. With the Mak I can cant over the diagonal and get a comfortable EP position while seated, and that position doesn't change much as I slew the scope, other than having to move my seat (a kick stool, on casters) around the base of the tripod. I just don't see how that would work with a Newtonian. I also don't like the way Newtonian's are open ended and there is their need for collimation.

    I'm a big refractor fan (I own three) but just be aware that whilst the MAK folded design is very forgiving to your EP position, a longer refractor  (like my ED150) can soon get you in an awkward position, particularly for higher altitude targets. You may need to consider a tripod extension depending upon which refractor you opt for.  For outreach events my ED80 is by far the favourite scope for general viewing.

    • Like 1
  3. Hi BobJC, welcome to SGL.  You will get lots of advice here.  My personal advice would be to stick with what you have for now but look to upgrade your mount first.  Doing that will significantly improve your ability to capture deep sky targets especially if you are mounting a guidescope as well.  Also, seeing as you have a zoom lens, you need to adopt a method of locking the zoom to avoid 'creep' during long exposures in the British climate.  Loads of other suggestions will come from others.

    • Thanks 1
  4. Hi Adele, welcome to SGL.  Regarding lightweight for a backpack, don't discount a good pair of binoculars.  If you are happy to use resources such as the book Turn Left at Orion to find targets then it may be a good starting point.  Enjoy.

  5. All good advice above.  I'm not as clever as those guys so I use a simple formula whereby the ideal focal length is 5x your chip pixel size.  So if your pixel size is 5 microns you need to aim for f/25; for 3 microns, f/15.  That said there are other factors I also find critical, predominantly defeating the seeing conditions.  That is all about collecting frames during the best seeing so I aim for at least 80fps and use an IR pass filter where possible.  As @vlaiv says aim for very fast shutter speeds and a high gain setting.  I use flat frames but never bother with dark frames for lunar with my cameras (ASI174MM and ASI290MM).  Lunar imaging is very rewarding so have a go and enjoy the results.  Below is an example using the 'widescreen' format 290 chip.

    32610865803_7d0cf51831_o.thumb.jpg.ba0661886f457cc3e48d1de35e796d12.jpg

    • Like 1
  6. We use Lunt and PST specifically designed Ha solar scopes.  We do not attempt WL observing.  We also give a preamble on never looking at the Sun without properly designed equipment supervised by experienced solar observers.  Never leave the equipment unattended.  We had a great turnout for the Mercury transit.

  7. If you purchase a solar filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/astrozap-baader-solar-filter.html) for your 150 PDS you will be able to image in white light only.  You could make your own with Baader film too. The only features you will pick up are sunspots or in periods of great seeing you may resolve some surface granulation.  You can use your Nikon at prime focus but it's best to take high frame rate video and stack the results to get a final image.  Best to use your ZWO ASI 120MM but check with the FOV calculator on the FLO site to see how much of the solar disk you can accommodate with that chip in your system.  Remember to remove any finder scopes when observing the Sun!

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.