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About bluemaxroe

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  1. Agreed. At the moment the roof is tied down with one of these in each corner.
  2. Personal choice would be 4 bolts/ rods and M12. On my last pier which was for an EQ6 I used M14 rods but everything became more expensive because at this size it is outside of “normal” high street stockist size ranges. M12 should be plenty strong enough...but then I have no experience with a Mesu200. my 2peneth.
  3. If anyone is wondering I have not yet concrete the pier yet. Gasp....I hear... Well I didn't really want to do this first for a couple of reasons. I knew building the building structure was going to mean getting some heavy bits of wood around. And originally thought I would construct the floor and put it place afterwards in one piece. As so, I didn't want to risk knocking the pier tube even if it was full of concrete. So I looked for another solution. Also as the structure was going to need to be as square as possible. Having the pier in the way would have hampered measurements. An additional plus of having the structure already done means I can secure the pier to the floor framework temporarily to keep it vertical/true and I can also check the pier eventual height against my plans and final actual roof height so the telescope fits under the roof in home position...but also has the best view over the obsy sides. Only down side is filling the pier hole more carefully through the floor joists bucket by bucket. A small price, and one I am happy to pay.
  4. Thanks Peter...I would give this an "eyeroll emoji" but I have no idea how. I think of it more like a beehive.
  5. Thanks...it was not meant to echo the look of anything in particular. But I have already nicknamed it the beehive observatory!
  6. A little more progress. triangulation on the outrigger legs and door side of wall finally filled in, insulated and clad. Incidentally, the roof runs on upturned 30mm angle iron painted with hammerite and screwed in place. V-groove castors are fixed to the roof structure.
  7. More progress Out rigger legs up and roof beams in place!! Oh and built the greenhouse next door
  8. Much further on, i have now put a water proof membrane on the roof and lifted it into place to keep the internal structure dry. Cladding was the biggest purchase (175mm barn lap) this was not how i wanted to get this, but impending weather and wind that a tarp would not have survived meant that speed won out and, at the end of the day, the barn lap is great quality. Still have the outrigger support legs to do and then the main beams can be "slotted" through the structure!
  9. More progress photos showing the roof struts that I had cut by work (CNC) all designed so they fitted in 1 8'x4' sheet of 18mm ply. all the spacers are 2"x1" so that the roof is as light as possible. The roof was skinned with 6mm Ply (again - from used set panels)
  10. Now i have to be honest, i started the design for the observatory a long time a go. Over the summer i started the build. Digging holes for the posts and the the pier, setting the posts, building the base and fixing it in place. The Concrete was a left over from a builders job and a good price. Ballast was bought in a 1 tonne job lot. Posts are 4" x 8 foot, and again were sourced of Facebook, from a fencer who had just finished his own garden and had left over. The panels that fill in to make the walls are Scenic panels from my work as an Event designer. These are frames of 2x1 timber with a skin of 4mm ply. these would have been wood recycled if i had not asked for them. the below image is taken just after fitting the wall panels. (all bar the door side) floor under skin was 6mm ply from my work, again from a used stage set that was due to be recycled (chipped) Floor beams (outer) where from the same batch as the fencer gave me (10 in total) inner floor framework was part new stud-work timber and part "bits" i already had. the rough boards in the corners are holding the structure "true" until i get all walls in place. Tops of the legs have been cut to accept the main runner beams (6x2) for the roof. the wall panels have also been insulated with 25mm polystyrene insulation bought for £50 from another Facebook marketplace contact who had just taken down there workshop shed.
  11. I have been on the design for this observatory for a while. This is my second observatory as we moved about two and half years ago to Suffolk from Letchworth. My first Obsy was a shed with some extra structure added. I gave it a new lift off roof. This time i wanted a new more permanent ROR with the observatory purpose built for the job. But 2 factors are important along with function. Price and source as much as possible from other peoples unwanted/ left over stuff. The images below is the final design.
  12. If worried about zinc oxide fumes when welding, just clean the surface with a file or angle grinder before hand and the fumes will be much reduced. Should clean the area anyway before welding. I would still wear the appropriate mask though.
  13. Hi James, That's more what I was thinking.
  14. I am not sure any adjustment routine would a just for this much slack...when changing direction the dec motor takes 2-3 seconds to show motion.
  15. Hi everyone. I have an eq3-2 and the dec motor is really bad for slack. I was wondering if it is worth swapping out these motors for much better ones. If I do this do i need to calculate the gearing etc? Or can Phd do this with calibration? I would only be using the mount for super widefield imaging with a camera and max 200mm lens. Any advice would be appreciated. Is it better to just find a new(er) better replacement eq3-2 dec motor?
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