ebdons

Hi, the only object I have imaged in 6-7nm recently is the cresent neb in Cygnus as it fits my cam ccd size (sx825m) and is a good magnitude (7.5) and you should get a good result using astronomic 6nm and is pretty good even with the 12nm versions. clear skies!

Yes you can do NB imaging, depends on object magnitude ,sky quality and filter used, I normally use 12nm filters HA HB etc, but when fullmoon is out and sky is dark blue than you need to go down to 6-7nm and maybe even down to 3nm, that's when it gets expensive tho. as has been mentioned your guiding has to be sorted for long exposures depending on the cam sensor and gain etc. also don't ignore the broadband filters from idas etc like the NB type as they have a good rep from imagers in japan.ton

well done, can't say I've done better, good density of stars.

Yes well done, folks sometimes overlook M82 in favour of M81, but M82 has some nice detail and is certainly more of a challenge, but maybe for the dark winter nights?

Hi not sure if this is any good but it might be what your looking for? Tony. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p9105_TS-Optics-Adapter-for-2--filter--M48-thread--to-the-camera-lens-filter-thread.html

Superb! well done sir! better than any of my attempts so far. keep it up.

Sorry I didn't see the original post in full, but I have a sx lodestarx2 mono with the sx OAG and the prism isn't an issue at all, I just keep the prism perpendicular to the image line, it can go deeper but this cam picks up loads of stars and even more when binned x2 in PHD2. hope this helps. Ton

Hi, don't know if this relevant but I use a OAG on an 80mm frac and image with that side by side with a 8" newt and I get better results than when I had just a guidescope.

Hi, no issues with the panel, working well. dimmer very sensitive and should be ok for the cmos cams. put some foam around it to protect it, and it makes it easier to grab, or put on a handle or strap if you like?

Hi wayne, yes it held by the clamps against the mirror surface, that's why you need something thick enough the hold itself firm as I only have 3 clamps on my mirror, do a test sample first and then go from there, but needs a very smooth cut inside, I used a very sharp craft knife held against metal cake tin or similar. when done leave the clamps until the ring is perfect and just lightly nip them up. if the clamps are black then the black ring would merge as one with the clamps ok.

Yes try the ring around the mirror clamps, just a very tiny increase in FR is the result but worth it, I used a pizza base (black) that you put in the oven so is heat proof and that works ok, don't use anything that has a glue or oil base to it as they will leak out. ok all the best Ton

Superb! colours just great, lots of detail as well, well done sir!

Beautiful! really nice contrast of the 2 galaxies, well done sir! ton

Yes was interested in these, but think the bigger celestron mono sensor cams would be better, but some folks have done images with them, but probably only the brighter ones? I decided against them and bought an altair cam.

depends if it's the earlier square shape or the later cylinder type should be a bit cheaper than £500. same sensor is used in the sxvf m25c cams so is not bad but getting on in years tho. ton

Hi, Try Autostakkert as I find it stacks certain frames better, give it a shot. ton

Yep, there are guides out there about how to take flats bias darks etc and how many, but I found it a struggle when I first started a few years ago, but now can do them almost without any preview needed, only issue I sometimes have is as alacant mentions about the shutter spec, and also whether rolling shutter on some osc cams, and if possible I turn this shutter option off which helps the image consistency of the flats. but you may to play about a bit, and you don't even need clear skies to practice. clear skies soon hopefully.

Hi, I normally aim for 2-3 sec flats, in stark labs I aim for a peak on the graph, just left of middle, also look at the flat image sample and see if there are any objects/dust holes etc on it as that would mean you are getting near to the right flat setting, it depends also on filter choice. and iso setting, but I found that when using a newt and an sx825m the exp can be shortened quite a bit, or dimmed to get that 2- 3 sec exp length, when using a 80 apo, I can get the exp sorted easier even when using a OSC. other folks on here will know more. ps normally I use a mono with filters so don't know if this is relevant? and you may have to dim the screen more than you think? Ton

Yes well done sir! like the previous reply the newt gives a best "bang for the buck result"? keep posting your fantastic images. ton

Yep as has been said all been there, the only cock-up I repeat now and again is in nebulosity program, when I always do a preview of the object for the same exp length as the capture image and then I set it up for 3 hrs of subs at 5 mins each and press the preview button again accidentally and go indoors for a couple of hours and come out to find all I have is a 1 preview frame and not 3 hrs of subs. it might better when it the weather warms up?

Hi, are you adjusting the threshold of amount of stars in the image? also I use the best 80% of frames to stack and sometimes I use the 50% as well, look at your list of frames and make sure they are all the same size and untick those frames that are not in order which I fould out can work, but other folk on here may know if the other settings will work? I normally use stark labs stacking utility on some objects as well. ton

yes I'm trying venus in uv as well, just need some more stable atmosphere with fast cam to get any detail. keep going tho as it is on my bucket list to get the clouds imaged. zwo120m and 8"sct with baader UV filter and FR with and without, and adc from zwo, just not enough exp and maybe too slow a cam. this was mine from last week, albeit I'm just starting out and is also my ist image of venus.

Hi, are these the same spec sensor or is the name difference just for marketing purposes? K is for color and Q is for what? ton

Hi contact Terry at Starlight, he made the cams so he would know, albeit your cam is pretty old now and he may have no spares left for it?