Jump to content

sgl_imaging_challenge_2021_annual.thumb.jpg.3fc34f695a81b16210333189a3162ac7.jpg

rustigsmed

New Members
  • Content Count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About rustigsmed

  • Rank
    Vacuum

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    russ_is_not@yahoo.com.au

Recent Profile Visitors

294 profile views
  1. planets require as much resolution as possible, a high frame rate and low noise, this is where mono planetary cameras come into their own and beat the pack. most new DSLRs will do 30fps with some doing 60fps at 720p. this still enables good results if the seeing is good and its not too hot out. von Tom on flickr comes to mind Great huh? I have exactly the same setup as vonTom https://www.flickr.com/photos/vontom/with/5334416773/ but don't achieve anywhere near that quality of picture, probably more consistent seeing and better processing skills are the difference. for a good planetary camer
  2. You already have an 8" newt which gives a medium field of view. you have an opportunity at getting some wider field like an ED 80 and then something with a long focal length, the SCT have been mentioned, I'd throw in the new GSO Ritchey Chretien carbon fibre truss scopes (10"-16") as another alternative they look the goods and would be great for long focal length work etc.
  3. and just for the sake of it, i'll throw in a few more images, if someone stumbles across the thread in the future they can see what to expect from range of targets. some were taken without a coma corrector, some with, some when i had no idea about processing or capturing and some in the heat of an Australian summer (= DSLR noise). but its an honest look at what kind of quality you can expect. you could do better no doubt but if you want a lot better then a GEM is the only way to go. triffid Swan pre coma corrector Tarantula Horsehead ? faint and noisey but why not? Running man Over toaste
  4. Thanks very much for the kind words Ptarmigan, my personal view is that there could still be more done to improve those dob images, i'm reasonably new to image processing and in the hands of someone very skilled would do much better i'm sure of it these were simple processing techniques in photoshop only - and i haven't captured any DS data for a long time. add a cooled dSLR also the results would be even nicer. all that coupled with the mathematical models of how long to shoot for, in relation to where it would be - you'd be doing quite nicely. Olly raises a fair point, of course, if you are
  5. Indeed, i've learnt a bit out of this thread actually, its good to know that theory allows for longer subs if (planned correctly). every second counts when you're ~20 seconds, so it could help bring in a few extra DSO targets / or allow one to reduce the iso setting on the dSLR. Mine is the Skywatcher 12" goto dob. M83 Carina mosaic - having a crack at stitching Clear skies Rusty
  6. tack igen Patrick . from my location an object at an altitude of 45 comes out with a time of 30.4 seconds which sounds about right. I could potentially increase my exposure times accordingly depending of course on what elevation i'm imaging. although ... hopefully i have the EQ8 running soon but others searching for the info will find it handy. cheers, russell
  7. Tack Patrik, that would be useful for people giving it a go. Thanks for the info re: changing the length, would upsizing the secondary mirror make any difference or is dependant on the primary curve?
  8. takk for det Guillermo. yes, 25 seconds is fairly safe however most of my images were done @ 20 second subs which gave more consistent results. I am aware of others who go out to 30 seconds, however I believe field rotation starts effecting the outer stars, cropping generally takes care of that but I also believe your latitude is a factor in determining exp length. I find the tracking pretty good - if a bit of care was taken when setting up. Actually reading this thread got me thinking of perhaps moving the mirror up to f4 for some extra signal ... hmmm! actually as its a flex tube maybe even
  9. hi, i've done a bit of astrophotography with a DSLR on a goto 12" dob. its perfectly fine on the brighter DSOs http://www.flickr.com/photos/80336656@N07 depending of course on you standards... but i will say that it is so easy and quick to set up. i've since purchased an EQ8 but haven't got that up and running yet mainly due to the weather. good luck with the decision. russ
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.