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About animaal

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  1. Thanks Michael, after looking at some "real" images of Jupiter (from the ESA), I can see what you mean. I do think this second attempt looks better...
  2. Yes, I've started using Winjupos for the first time this month. I'm new to mono imaging, and it's the only way I could think of to allow me a little time to mess with the filter wheel and maybe focus between each filter.
  3. I used 90 secs for each of R, G and B (and IR, but ended up not using it!). The ASI290MM has tiny pixels, so there's good detail at lower F-values. But I think F15 is probably the highest I could bring it. Cameras with larger pixels might be better with F15-F25.
  4. Thanks, I used a C9.25 and an asi290mm. I'd like to have used a 1.5x barlow but I don't have one, so I drizzled at 1.5x instead.
  5. Lots of very good Jupiter images over the past few days - imagine how good our skills would be if only we had clear skies more than one week of the year... Anyway, here's my latest. Not as good as a lot we see on this forum, but it's my best yet. I took an IR channel as well, and it improves the detail when used as luminance. But I haven't used the IR channel because it colours the red spot an unhealthy looking orange-yellow colour. And I don't want to cheat by recolouring the spot!
  6. Hi John, I would say that those types of camera are mostly used for planetary/lunar imaging. They both have small sensors and tiny pixels. Although, I imagine a cooled variant with a widefield setup would be ok in some circumstances. I have an asi290, and the pixel size works well with my scope for planetary work. If it was cooled, I could probably bin the pixels (if mono rather than colour), put it on a short-focal-length OTA, and create images of smaller objects. In terms of sensitivity, I think it's more difficult to compare sensitivity when the pixels are different sizes. I'd be surprised if there was a lot of difference once you allow for pixel size in the calculations. Somebody more knowledgeable than me might comment.
  7. Just to add - I checked out Sara Wager's website (that's swag72 above, I hadn't realised, thanks Sara ), and now I'm tending towards a KAF8300-based camera. I hate to show off my indecision/ignorance but coming from a DSLR I don't think I'll be disappointed with the sensitivity of any mono/cooled CCD, but I could miss the FOV.
  8. That will definitely be interesting, I'll keep my eye open for it.
  9. Wow, thanks for all the feedback. It's appreciated. I was a bit unsure about the FOV of the Sony sensor too, but the alternative is the Kodak 8300, which needs larger more expensive filters, has more noise, and pixels that I think wont suit the 80mm refractor. The 460 has a smaller FOV, but has less noise, higher QE, and as Ollie says, can be binned 2x2 with a 0.63x reducer to get good pixel size on the C925. When imaging a single galaxy, I'm not too pushed about having a wide field around it, so I think that should be ok. But it is a tough choice, and one I know others struggle with. If a used Atik 383L came up for sale, I'd surely be tempted... I have batinov masks, although I generally struggle with focusing. It's an interesting suggestion to get electric focusers before thinking about narrowband filters. I attempt to focus at the start of the session and leave it at that, so maybe that would be a better route... Thanks for the insights!
  10. I'm hoping to get an Atik 460ex (mono) for use with my 80mm refractor and Celestron c925. (ideally a used one!) I already image with a DSLR, but find the noise and light pollution a little frustrating. I want to do a bit of everything - imaging tight into small DSOs, and wider fields in RGB and narrowband. For planetary imaging, I already have a manual filter wheel and 1.25" LRGB Astronomik filters. Not wanting to pay for a full imaging kit in one big lump, I'm thinking of spreading out the costs as follows: - On day 1, purchase CCD, starlight express motorised filter wheel. Reuse existing manual LRGB filters (edit: focussing will be manual, filter wheel will be computer-controlled). - Some time later, buy Astrodon 1.25" narrowband filters (all 3nm, relatively parafocal with each other) - Much later, obtain a USB focuser for one/both telescopes Does this choice and timetable make sense, or can anybody offer advice on whether I'm likely to get frustrated, e.g. focusing manually in narrowband, or using LRGB filters from a different manufacturer than that of the narrowband ones? Thanks.
  11. Thanks. I used a Celestron C925, ZWO ASI290MM, and 1.25" RGB filters. I found the focusing a bit tricky because I'm not used to seeing a grey image on the screen, so I'm not sure if it's quite "there".
  12. My latest image of Jupiter (& Ganymede) from the weekend. My first time trying mono + filter imaging. A question for the more experienced, how can I tell from an image if I am suffering from Collimation error rather than bad focus? Thanks.
  13. I made an order from Harrison Telescopes. Some time after submitting it, I realised that there was a small item that I had forgotten. It wouldn't have been worth paying postage for the small item by itself, so I sent a message asking if it was possible to add it to the order I'd already made. Ed replied immediately (on a Sunday!), inviting me to submit a new order, and telling me that he'd arrange for the two orders to be merged, and with only a single postage charge. Delivery was quick, and everything was handled as I was told. Top marks!
  14. I find Mars the most interesting planet to image, but It's difficult to get much from it these days with it being so low in the sky. I regret not making more of it in 2014 when it seemed to be straight overhead! Looking ahead, it looks like Mars will be at a high altitude in summer 2017, but only during the day. Hopefully I'm mistaken, but I don't see any really good opportunities before late 2018.
  15. Thanks, that's good to know. I don't know whether the scope is air-spaced or not, but I'll try to find out before diong anything.
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