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Thalestris24

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Everything posted by Thalestris24

  1. Thalestris24
    Hiya Yeah, I'm aware the two scopes are the same in that respect but I don't want to disturb the 150pds setup. It sits there quite happily, all focused and ready to go - should there be a break in the clouds! Besides, what would be the point of doing it? I already have a modded 1100d I could use and using a colour camera for narrowband is inefficient anyway. I'm looking at other refractors like the Equinox 80. It's a bit pricey but cheap compared to true APOs and easily portable. I can get a flattener with a long back focus which would give me plenty of room for a filter wheel. Thanks for your input though - much appreciated Louise
  2. Thalestris24
    Hiya Um, it's not really about pressing stuff into service, it's more the need to have a portable combo I can easily take outside (I live in a 2nd floor flat with no lift...) and that's quick and easy to setup - and on a tight budget, of course! The 150pds would just be too difficult for little me to transport. A shortish refractor seems to fit the bill.. It would be a shame to not use the mono 1100d. In any case, with the local lp, narrowband seems the way to go. A filter drawyer might do - how much focus travel actually is there with the Evostar ED80? Maybe an alternate ED80 make/model would allow it? There must be a way!! I know a mono ccd would be the best solution but I just can't afford one Louise
  3. Thalestris24
    Thinking about it, I suppose the focuser travel is lost by using a focal reducer... I only need 25-30mm for the filter wheel. Maybe an alternate refractor? An achromat might do. I suppose I could swap speed for space. Oh well, back to deep thought... Louise
  4. Thalestris24
    Hiya Luis seems to just use a single filter (Ha) and blends with colour images from an undebayered camera. He has some very nice images on his Flickr page. I was thinking about having the fw ahead of the Evostar 80ED ff - there must be plenty of travel room since, without the diagonal, you'd have an extension tube attached? However I don't know if there'd be a problem from an optical point of view with filters further from the sensor? Thanks Louise
  5. Thalestris24
    Hiya Oh, I should have said... Yes, with a debayered 1100d. Hmm... I'd forgotten about the 80ED slowness. Can't win, sigh. Do you think it might be feasible to attach a filter wheel in front of the ff? My qhy8l is permanently attached to my 150pds which is staying indoors. I'm trying to put together a rig to use outside and which I'd be transporting to a location which is about 10mins walk away. Louise
  6. Thalestris24
    Hiya Thanks though I really wanted to know if one is better than the other in terms of use without a cc/ff since I want to be able to use a filter wheel with a dslr... Maybe there's no difference? Cheers Louise
  7. Thalestris24
    Hiya Yeah but can't have cc+fw+dslr as far as I've been able to ascertain I don't suppose anyone has had experience of 130pds and 80ED - would be good to have a comparison re: distortions. Louise Louise
  8. Thalestris24
    Hi I'm still thinking about getting one of these... I guess it needs a coma corrector? I'd really like to be able to use a filter wheel and a dslr. I'm wondering if the coma on the 130pds is worse (or better) than the field curvature on the Evostar 80ED - anyone know? Cheers Louise
  9. Thalestris24
    Hi again Can you confirm if you have reducing coma corrector? If it's a SW 0.9 one then your fov will then be 1.41 x 0.94. So 20% bigger will be 1.41 x 1.2 -> 1.69, say 1.7 and 20% smaller will be 0.94 x .8 -> 0.75. So those numbers will determine the index files you need and you can put 1.7 into scale maximum. Hope that works now! Phew! Louise
  10. Thalestris24
    Hi again Actually, your fov calculation is wrong - for a explorer 200 and a 1000d, it should be 1.27 x 0.85, so 20% larger should be 1.27 x 1.2 -> 1.83 deg, say 1.9 deg. 20% smaller should be 0.85 x .8 -> 0.68 deg so you need to use those values to determine which index files you need. Then you just need to put 1.9 into scale maximum. I suddenly realised your calcs were wrong when I was looking at my own for a 150pds and 1100d... Sorry, wasn't thinking before, d'uh. Louise Oops! Sorry just realised you have a coma corrector - if that's a reducer also, you'll have to multiply the values to allow for that.
  11. Thalestris24
    Hi Assuming your fov calculations are correct, the scale maximum value should be 0.282 degrees - say 0.3 in round numbers I don't think you really need to specify the scale min value (can be 0) or the -H and -L parameters. Hth Louise
  12. Thalestris24
    Wow! Need my sunglasses on to view that one!
  13. Thalestris24
    Hi Hope you don't mind me butting in again. But FWIW mine doesn't move in RA as easy as it does in DEC with clutches loosened, so it takes more effort to unbalance it in RA. However, it's still possible for me to move the mount in RA (with no scope) using one hand (I'm only little!) and the rotation is smooth, if a little 'heavy' feeling. I can move it in RA with the scope attached using just one finger. Also tracks fine. I think it's really hard to convey what these things are like, or what they should be like, just in text and pictures. Maybe video is the answer to sharing such info! When I next rebalance mine I'll try and make a video of it Louise
  14. Thalestris24
    Hi I had similar concerns however I just think it's a characteristic of the mount. If it slews quite happily and tracks and guides ok then maybe just leave well alone and be happy. Louise
  15. Thalestris24
    Hi Adam In principal you can but it's not very practical I'm afraid. They are really for use with monochrome ccd's with filter wheels. You might be able to attach one filter at a time but that would be very fiddly. Even then you'd really need dark skies as you'd require long exposures - the narrowband filters seriously cut the amount of light reaching the sensor. Um, as this is a pinned topic you may not get more replies as members don't tend to scour them for new posts. Better to create a new topic Louise
  16. Thalestris24
    Hmm... a bino microscope would be much better, I'm sure!
  17. Thalestris24
    Hi Gina Something like this might be handy! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bresser-Microscope-5802000-Biolux-ICD/dp/B0017J7NW6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1400262882&sr=8-2&keywords=binocular+microscope Dunno how you manage without a microscope! Must be very hard to see detail! Louise
  18. Thalestris24
    Hmm.. it's a bit like a politician or a salesman telling people what they want to hear... For not much more than the price of a 60da you can buy a ccd with a higher QE. If the 60da was a mono with microlenses it might be worth it! Louise
  19. Thalestris24
    Maybe not - they probably have a very integrated production line. Of course, there wouldn't be a mass demand for them anyway. Oh well. Louise
  20. Thalestris24
    Hi Yeah - one day! I really don't have time to do anything much with it at the moment. It will almost certainly have imperfections though. It's a darn shame Canon don't produce some of them without CFAs in the first place! Louise
  21. Thalestris24
    Hi guys Got my debayered 1100d today - have posted a quick daytime comparison in the 'cameras' section if anyone is interested. Cheers Louise
  22. Thalestris24
    Awesome! I've yet to even image a galaxy at all so have to hand it to you. 41 hours - that's true dedication! Thanks for sharing it with us. Louise
  23. Thalestris24
    600 is for the uncooled mono 1100d - I don't think it's changed recently. I decided the cooled version was too expensive for me!
  24. Thalestris24
    Hi Well they are a business so have to allow for losses plus they work on new cameras so higher risk. They are short staffed too at the moment. I suppose 600 Euros isn't exorbitant for the amount of work involved. They don't guarantee perfect sensors so there will be imperfections. Hopefully flats will hide them Louise
  25. Thalestris24
    Thanks - it's taken them an awful long time! I hope it's not too long before they actually ship it. Patience is a virtue... I believe they do a lot of their method under a (presumably low-power) microscope and in a flow cabinet. I imagine they use a hot air gun rather than a butane torch - the flame temperature must be potentially rather high! Good luck Louise
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