astrorg

Me again! It is good to keep this thread developing for all to read. In the non-distant future I may get the Quark - which one, will depend on what I will do and money too. At present I play once in a while with my DIY solar-scope. Regarding the Baader H-alpha 35nm CCD Filter 2", they are discontinued and they have added this in its place: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/h-alpha-bandpass-filter-20nm.html But, I noticed it is 2mm and not 3mm thick as the 35nm, it is 20nm and not 35nm (narrower) and the new one has a Reflex coating - I guess to reduce reflections. I am now wondering if it will make any difference to use it in conjunction with the older 35nm. Although I am more worried about its 2mm losing 'heat' strength! Any idea?

I do have a 1.25" 0.5x maybe using right spacers and make it a 0.75? ... I think I got my own answer here! https://agenaastro.com/gso-1-25-0-5x-focal-reducer.html Mine is in practice that, not a TS but! Simply connecting to 174M directly may give me just about 0.7x. ... and the answer is: blooming try it you idiot! If I get the Sun available, when I am available.

Hi, I never saw your post - sorry. As mentioned I am in and out Astronomy, mostly to do with my precarious site = home! At the time I already had the AR152 988 - i.e. F6.5 ... That is why I was asking about it. I am thinking to keep my AR152 F6.5 and use it eventually with a Chromosphere... or something else. Problem always is if I can trust to have only a Baader filter on it, as @Davey-T does with his better F5.9 I mean, I am no expert on this, but I guess if it is fine with his F5.9, it should be better with my F6.5 in terms of Sun intensity, right? But regarding the DIY AR90/900. I usually used a QHY 174M mini with it and it seems great. How do I get the full disk? I see I would need a reduction of about 0.8-0.75x, but... my setup still uses the PST 1.25" nosepiece and therefore I am forced to use a 1.25" reducer. Is there a decent and not too expensive one? I cannot afford to get a B1200 - maybe I will, before the Chromosphere. I do not even know where to lean on. Meaning which BF to get 1800 1200 600 whichever is around - I can only possibly afford one and must be the most useful with my AR90/900 or just do bother - save money and get Chromosphere to use with AR152 F6.5 and maybe my small 72ED F5.8 or the cheap ST80 F5 I still have 😂😂 Also with the Chromosphere may be a challenge getting full disk as well? I am confused with the 4.2x that it uses ! Sorry, my questions keep being of a newbie, as I am on and off and keep forgetting things! Pff When you are in it constantly for months, you get the whole lot back in mind. I feel like a 2 years old asking questions! mmm

Thank you all... Yes 5.6µm I also finally found some of the old files. Installed and working fine, apart from an initial BSOD because I did forget to read the txt file and do the 3 code modifications. Well at least I hope it did the trick. Got and ADC too for the first time in years I wanted to get one. Since I did some planetary test on mono using my old RGB 4000 series - probably not IR protected and the IR filter... I thought we are in North UK and weather is bad, therefore probably no more Mono - just OSC for anything. There are good filters now and I believe thanks to LED light put about 3 years ago, my Bortle may be 4- 4.5 and not 5 as mentioned by Clear outside website. A few weeks ago, I could barely see the milky way - so I guess I am a 4.5 now and I was not adapted to darkness.

Hi I did watch Robin's video a few years back - very good indeed. I have an old LX200 Classic 10" - I am old too (!), which 0.62x reducer are you using? I did add the Skywatcher 10:1 focuser and that adds a minimum of 90mm from original prime focus and I wish to find a 'decent' 0.62x or near that can be fit after focuser (not the original Meade/Celestron...) and hopefully not braking the Bank too. I am not in search of perfection, but a 'doable' one. The intention is to fit LX200 onto wheeled Tripod and leave it on to use as Planetary and Deep Sky + add a small refractor on top when in use, getting too heavy for me! Thanks M

Hi I used to 'use it' a bit and I have just found it and probably going to use it! One thing I do not know and if you remember. What is its pixel size? I am guessing ~ 4µ ! Thanks M

Correction! The link from web archive advertise everywhere, initially shows a Server Error. Then I thought lets wait a few seconds more and I was right. Download link comes out fine! [url]https://web.archive.org/web/20160312134842/http://www.njnoordhoek.com/?p=376[/url] Then click on Maskulator and 'wait' after you get (well I did!) a server error.

Excuse the intrusion on an old thread and I am not trying to argue, but trying to get a solution for 'everybody'. I saw many threads about Maskulator and a load of repeated links that do not exist any more. Why is it any one that has a copy of Maskulator software is not publishing it on Google Drive or similar? I cannot find it yet ... and I do not understand the secrecy, if there is any. I thought it was supposed to be a People's thing - you know sharing? 😇 Thanks PS keeping publishing dead links does not help anybody.

Thank you for all your replies, I do not know why, I did not have this thread 'followed' and never got notification. I am pondering!

Same for the SW 72ED

Hello Does anybody have done a focuser mod to use standard electric focuser on this original AR152 focuser? I am your classic -do-not-have-enough-cash-to-spend-type, but I am a good DIYer. I do not have for example the Skywatcher standard electric focuser and cannot know if I can adapt it to AR152. Does anyone know or done it? Thanks Mauro

Yes, that is part of the list and it is one easy way to do it and still be able to add PC... if needed. I wish to have both, really.

Thank you both, it looks like it ... or get one of those other Asterion kits here ... maybe ... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/astronomy-mount-upgrade-kits.html

Hi all I have been off Astronomy for a couple of years now and still off it and I am trying to upgrade one of my mounts, a very little used EQ3-2 (new) ! I did read some of the forum posts, but I only need to make work what I have, really, do not wish to get into making a new one, even though I am an electronics technician, I lost my mojo! 🤔 On the mount itself I have nothing, i.e. no polar scope + illuminator (might get them too) and no drive motors. What I want to do is convert it to a Go-to also using what I have, but I am not sure - especially having been off it for a long time. 😜 My SynScan was updated a few years ago and it is the older type with NO USB, but I also 'made' an adaptor years ago and it now is a USB one and works fine - see images. All I need to know now, is what I need to make SynScan work with my EQ3-2. Apart from the obvious drive motors? I guess an interface from SynScan to motors. Do I have to get the motor kit - maybe the Delux too? Also, it is worth getting these motors? i.e. are they accurate enough to do a bit of everything, including planets and Deep Sky? I also have EQ-Mod etc. already installed and all working OK - as far as I remember -as I used it with my upgraded EQ6, so I do not wish to change the way I use to. Makes my life easier... especially now I am older. It was just - plug and play at the time and I would like to use both, SynScan and EQ-Mod or maybe simply use the Deluxe + EQ-Mod... maybe it is simpler? Thank you M

Well... here are some answers to help anybody that wishes to move to Linux: https://indilib.org/forum/general/1789-which-software-are-you-using-under-linux-for.html But I still wish to get SharpCap working. I just love it and I find it very me, but I am always open to new things and will try other Linux native applications. I guess at present the main thing is to try applications, I wonder which one of native Linux is best for Deep Sky.

Hi Can anyone give us their thoughts on Best Telescope control / focusing aid / capture / etc. software 'setup' for Linux ? It would be preferable replies were from Amateurs that currently us ALL Linux setup, to give 'proven and tested' options. I am terribly tired of Windows after decades of bother, I am getting back to Linux. I installed Ubuntu 20.03 - upgraded to 20.04 recently and I am trying to see what windows .exe work on Ubuntu - some already and eventually switch for ALL Linux kernel applications. I have to say, one app in particular ... SharpCap ... I love very much and wish to make it work on Wine/Linux. I understand someone already in 2018 asked Robin for a Linux version, but I understand being a one man project, it would require a lot of work and it is not riight to ask Robin. I recently asked thou if he could manage to create dependencies of his program in a way that can be used by 32bit [better] WINE interpreter. Instead of looking for .NET etc. externally, instead create a one package all with dependencies, so WINE can use it and install SharpCap. Although I believe it should be able to ins6all it as it is. I managed [somewhat... I think!] to install .NET 4.6.2 - if I am not wrong with the version, after many attempts . I have little time, but I am slowly getting there. Anybody managed to install SharpCap 32bit with WINE? 32bit is more stable at present. If so, please share correct Terminal commands to do the job 'effectivley' Thank you M PS I guess this thread could be a good start for all of those fed-up with Windows!

Yep, that was my thought too. mmm

Hi Julian Can you direct me somewhere where I can get an idea how to use Raspberry Pi for just one camera? I need to extend a USB 3 astro camera and I do not have Ethernet near, just Wi-Fi if needed - to connect to it from my pc. I have a 5m extension which is very good and works with anything but this camera - it does not even connect. I have not yet tried a 3m extension [running over my head!] yet. I have an old Raspberry Pi Model B+ V1.2 [2014] which I think I did use as a Kodi receiver for a short time. I know it works fine and i also have a USB keyboard and mouse and a joypad type of keyboard - that works too or used to, but I might have to also have to buy a VERY cheap a screen just to help. I am getting older and comfort is imperative now and for the future! Thanks in advance

I have an EQ3-2 - as a spare lighter mount, but are the EQ3-2 drives + ANY good? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/dual-axis-dc-motor-drive-for-eq3-2.html i.e. can they go as fast as the EQ6 ones when moving to target? Not hugely necessary, but a plus. I already have a USB cable through ASCOM + joypad I use on an old EQ6 - rejuvenated years ago with GOTO - soon Belt mod too. Maybe making this: https://www.astroeq.co.uk/tutorials.php https://onstep.groups.io/g/main/wiki/3860 Is it worth spending time making an interface? I would like to use it for small telescopes like the SW 72ED Just a thought... this might be far fetched, but can I use my EQ6 original SW GOTO remote with EQ3 - to act as a USB connection with computer? or use a HitecAstro st4 cable -I am really not sure about anything.

You always give straight answers ... i.e. First things first - don't worry about under sampling. At first I thought it was under-sampling, I went back to look and it is in fact OVER-sampling. Getting happier by the minute!

Out of curiosity: which gear did you use? Thanks ... I am in the same boat and I have window of ~5 days to get a deal-ish between 533 and 294 Thank you for your time M

Hi I had this telescope a few years now and used very little and I would like to be able to reduce F down to f/4 if possible. I used a Orion 0.8x reducer/flattener and that works well. I currently own these cameras: Altair 178M and C [both with fan] - [3040x2048, 2.4x2.4 um, Chip size: 7.296mm x 4.9152] - I believe sensor distance ~10mm QHY5III-174M mini [uncooled] - sensor distance 11mm - 1936x1216 - 5.86um Canon 100D T3 QE 43 - sensor distance 43-44mm [5184 x 3456, 4.3um] Does anyone have any 'practical' help in choosing the correct reducer/flattener to match AR152 and cameras? Trying hard to get back to do a bit more imaging - not easy with UK [Northern England] weather to do tests - I wasted a lot of time ... a lot of times ... doing tests and reduced by 80% the actual outings to image! It is just not possible to spend the few nights I am free and match the weather + test. Often there is only a 2-3 hours window per night. At the time I was using mainly DSLR and then went to use [a bit] the 178C with 0.8x flattener. I started to test with GSO short 0.5x, but never really continued - I do not have any written data, I though it was best to ask the experts here. Practical tips always better than theoretical, especially when it is not really my field ... I mean optics! I know I am not much here, time is of essence in the last few years and combining free time + weather is hard here and I am getting older and fed up a bit - just trying to have 2-3 setups to do what is - lets' say 'in vogue' - planetary/deep sky or Sun and Moon. I did Mars test and that was it ... ONCE but I was lucky to have had decent weather and I should have done more takes - idiot me!- 6 weeks of bad weather and the few times it was clear, it was NOT clear for astronomy. Just got a decent small image of Mars. My first time using IR_RGB filters and RGB filters were the old Meade 4000 series - not sure they have UV-IR leaks - probably! Thank you in advance for any help - appreciated. Mauro Note: I do own the first edition SW 250PX F/4.7 - very nice, but my situation is: I have a very tight site, which 1/2 of it needs setting up and the SW is getting heavier as I get older> It is not my strength the problem, it is the aching joints and lifting that HUGE tube very high ~ 1.6m is too much now. - it is that high because I have a garage wall obstructing South [!], so I built a wheeled 3 spikes ~28cm high trailer + EQ6 tripod + added SW 20cm extension tube - just to gain a few degrees! I am to a point in which I need to decide which gear I 'really' need that also makes my life easier + be able to do Planetary/Sun/Moon and Deep sky - it is just hard. I even thought to sell almost all I have to then get a HUGE motorised Dobsonian - say 16"-20" which would also allow me planetary and piggy back on it a small 72ED for wide field. Then use EQ3 for the self-built Ar90/900 solar scope. Any practical suggestions WANTED ... please - without breaking the Bank! My Deep Sky images are here - I rarely had anything finished apart from maybe M31-31-110 and maybe some others! Using a DSLR is very slow and with my weather, I really need at fast camera - cannot afford one yet and thought if I make telescope faster would help DSLR a lot! I also do really like 100D -very good camera - modified

Well ... I had some time and managed after 5-6 re-processing to have a IR-RGB image - the only one! It was a test and STUPID me, I only did one take each colour and I should have taken as many as possible because that was a very clear night [gap]. Never had a decent night since 17 Sep 2020, ridiculous and almost usual UK weather. No wonder some UK amateurs get beautiful images, they 99% of the time can afford [or make debts!] to go abroad and with a Celestron 14" SCT! 70% of the job is having a clear sky, 20% is the gear and 10% your acquired skill-set - in my view and the latter takes a long time - the other two a lot of money I do not have. Wrong hobby? Anyway, this is the image: Also here: https://astronomo.space/my-images/mars/

I have a question, is it really worth getting 1.25" Baader RGB filters? I know I am using the Meade 4000 which really are for visual, but I thought next time I can use my UV+IR filter to further narrow the RGB or just the GB - am I an idiot? I am really short of money and if difference is not 'that' obvious, well ... Just re-learning Planetary Imaging - not that I did learn a lot at the time! 🤣

Hi Sorry I am never here, I am lucky to have had some time to spend on Mars. Really difficult in the last few years to do any imaging or even just observing. In the meantime I am getting gears ready for retirement [ still years ahead] and have some 'quick' setups and not too heavy - I am getting older! Anyway I managed to do 'some' decent images and certainly better than 13 years ago !! Gear: Meade LX200 10" Classic - re-aluminised a few years ago and never really managed to use it 3x GSO Barlow Manual Filter wheel with 685nm, Meade 4000 series [I know more for visual - cannot afford to buy other!] RGB #25 #56 #80 and no UV+IR filter ... yet I might use UV+IR on RGB or just GB Software: SharpCap [my usual one] and FireCapture [never used it - first time] Autostakkert Registax This image is IR only [685nm] colourised and I am actually happy considering not having done much Planetary or even used the LX200 in years. Trying to perfect gear and honing skills!