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About astrorg

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  1. I have a question, is it really worth getting 1.25" Baader RGB filters? I know I am using the Meade 4000 which really are for visual, but I thought next time I can use my UV+IR filter to further narrow the RGB or just the GB - am I an idiot? I am really short of money and if difference is not 'that' obvious, well ... Just re-learning Planetary Imaging - not that I did learn a lot at the time!
  2. Hi Sorry I am never here, I am lucky to have had some time to spend on Mars. Really difficult in the last few years to do any imaging or even just observing. In the meantime I am getting gears ready for retirement [ still years ahead] and have some 'quick' setups and not too heavy - I am getting older! Anyway I managed to do 'some' decent images and certainly better than 13 years ago !! Gear: Meade LX200 10" Classic - re-aluminised a few years ago and never really managed to use it 3x GSO Barlow Manual Filter wheel with 685nm, Meade 4000 series [I know more for visual - cannot afford to buy other!] RGB #25 #56 #80 and no UV+IR filter ... yet I might use UV+IR on RGB or just GB Software: SharpCap [my usual one] and FireCapture [never used it - first time] Autostakkert Registax This image is IR only [685nm] colourised and I am actually happy considering not having done much Planetary or even used the LX200 in years. Trying to perfect gear and honing skills!
  3. Thanks, trying my best - time and money permitting. I guess Solar will be in my retirement setup - being during the day helps.
  4. Hello I have been away from this forum from possibly July - I never find a lot of time to do anything these days, same to be able to relax reading and interacting Astronomy forums. I asked here a few ideas about making a solar scope or modifying whatever I had and I was recommended to also see Solar Chat Forums and I did. Thanks to solarchatforums I have been able to do something decent and here is what I have done so far - very slowly! 1. I purchased a second hand PST and replaced its ITF with Maier one from the US and it finally had a clear image coming through + moved Etalon screw to third position - all the usual thing everybody does [after I researched it]! 2. used a new SCT screw-on short focuser [used once or twice on a LX200 R Classic] and using Teflon tape I screwed the PST Etalon to the focuser and purchased a 2" adaptor to fit on Etalon. 3. then used a Chinese 2" to 1.25 and modified the 2" side socket taking internal ring off and making 3x 120° threaded holes and 3x nylon thumb screws and used that as an adaptor to fit the original PST eyepiece holder - strangely enough at present this adaptor is also used as a tilter ... until I buy a proper camera tilter 4. then fit the above eyepiece holder into the SCT focuser with 2" to 1.252 adaptor in it and screwed the whole Gold PST tube with Etalon in it and made a BETTER PST - see image 5. I also initially tried a 2.2x DSLR camera Lens magnifier in front of PST and it decently works too - so PST will be fine for full solar disk mainly and without the 0.5 angstrom - not forcibly needed, I am probably around 0.7 as it is! 6. more importantly, I decided to make my own 90mm solar scope using the above bits and pieces. 7. with the help of Solar Chat Forums [great guys with a lot of knowledge, some are professional - i.e. they know the optics mathematical details - which helps] I purchased a cheap Bresser AR90/900 8. the ONLY usable thing there ... is the main tube, a nice and thick tube - the rest is ALL plastic!!! I dismounted all parts and saw tube shorter ... a bit too much ! - I could have saved ~6cm really as I went with original ideas, but forgot I was using a different telescope from my initial thoughts - silly me! So, I added a 6cm extension - no problems there to reach the 20cm inward needed for the PST Etalon which has ~20cm FL 9. initially I used a Tuna Fish 100g tin to adapt the SCT focuser onto my AR152 and fit Etalon inside the focuser to get near the 20cm needed- lets call it Quark unit - which it is really! It worked well, so I decided to add a second focuser to tune the Etalon ... getting back to AR90/900 ... 10. I was trying to avoid overspending, I could not afford to spend too much - then I remembered I had a unused AR102SX which in my mind I guessed ... the focuser should over AR90/900 and it did! It just fits perfectly - then drilled three holes for the holding screws et-voila' 11. I purchased a second hand 75mn Baader D-ERF and fit it INSIDE the AR90 tube at about 20cm inside from the front air-spaced doublet lenses, as there are the usual internal rings soldered in and just sit on it and I have about 70mm aperture - i.e 70mm width from the D-ERF for photons to get through. At that ~20cm distance from front lenses the beam is still very large - probably about 60-65mm - there is no heat in between - no need for air-escaping holes 12. when I have the time I will make a solar finder scope and fit it on the tube - not that is really needed - I usually use CDC to get there almost over The Sun [having an almost exact spot on the yard!] - then use my eye without eyepiece and look thourgh the PST eyepiece holder for solar shinging and centre the telescope over The Sun. Well, it works well after tuning Etalon focuser correctly and then focusing/tuning Etalon etc. - the usual. See some images - still learning imaging/processing and a lot more to learn about Solar ... a lot! I will probably need to get a Power-mate 2.5x when I can afford it! 1st mod - without the original black box - it works so much better - better focusing and sharper viewing too. This is the AR90/900 shorten tube with AR102SX focuser and adaptors to test it normally This is complete with the Quark Unit on the right side Since this image there have been some changing - do not use the revelation adaptor any more and added a 6cm 2" extension. Here are some images:
  5. Hi It has been over a month doing no Deep Sky, Lunar or Solar imaging and need to get back - it is like I am drugged! I was thinking to get a Astronomik ProPlanet IR 742 fro Lunar Imaging QUESTION 1: but 1.25" or 2" ? Also, I am guessing it would be of help using it for Deep Sky RGB images [especially with modified DSLR, to cut light pollution out more. QUESTION 2: is it really useful for Deep Sky? I do have a modified DSLR + 178M/c cameras. Thank you experts Mauro
  6. ADDITION Just remembered - of course - the shortening of the tube was only to get the focus point outer than it was as DSLR did not reach it even with all focus in [old focuser] - reason I did replace focuser - I forgot - as mentioned I only re-hesumated this telescope, which I still love - mirrors are as new! Tried them sometime ago and I was so surprised [I did forget] how fast it is at F/4.7.
  7. Yes, I realised I said a stupid thing! Disregard the tube cutting ... 1. Mainly only try and reduce F/4.7 to something much lower if possible and use DSLR minly and eventually an Altair 178C. I do have a coma corrector that works well - only tested once and coma seems 99% gone! I have not yet done a proper night imaging yet, since I have fixed all small problems I had and added coma corrector and already thnking 'faster' - I must be mad! Just trying to make it faster. 2. I really wish to reduce its weight to half! I thought to do a scheleton and add strong clothing around and get maybe 30% weight off - I am getting older!
  8. 3 pages and no end testingpost? What a pity!
  9. addition, just rememberedI now have the 10:1 and if I shorten tube I will also need either put old focuser back or move secondary [too much to do]. Maybe also Primary mirror curvature might get involved as focusing angle will change. mmm
  10. Hi experts I recently resuscitated my old [the very first one], but in New conditions Skywatcher Skyliner 250PX. I put it for sale many months ago and had a couple of interested buyers, but never sold. I had second thoughts in selling it and the main reason was - it is getting too heavy for me. Mine has: added fan to keep mirror dewless, although I managed years ago to better original focuser steadiness, I replaced it with the lowprofile [good for DSLR I still happily use] 10:1 - which also has extension for use with more modern CCD + added secondary mirror Dew-heater [when needed]. The whole thing is fit on a EQ6-ascom driven mount. I always wanted to either reduce tube length [i.e. saw it] or use a reducer. Either ways: what would you recommend as reducer or/and cutting tube shorter? I currently am using [not much yet !] its matched Skywatcher Flattener [0.9x] with my DSLR Canon 100D and I am happy with it. Looking forward to get back to it - I was sick for 2 weeks [nothing bad] then I was busy, then holidays etc. I skipped at least a month of Deep Sky imaging. Personally I guess the best way is to shorten tube but, I need to take account of: 1. I do need to use its flattener 2. I both wish to use DSLR + CCD and 'eventually' use filter wheel [which takes about 45-50mm at least]. All the above needs to be considered. One obviously wishes to shorten tube as much as possible without loosing resolution or creating new problems - i.e. trying to make a faster and also less heavy tube [not much!] Thank you in advance experts Mauro PS I know easy way is to have a decent Newtonian and buy the Quattro Carbon one [much lighter] + expensive flattener!
  11. Solved I simply got rid of Image Stabilization etc. - set to none and used it as the old way of set size + x,y .
  12. I believe you are correct - it is probably due to the Tuning on the sweet spot - will train on that too, ... soon - I think I got it now - I only need practice a lot and hone my skills - as ever.. I will see when I get a few hours of Sun and I happen to be at home [in peace from work!].
  13. Hi Yes, I know I can 'record' ROI live and not crop later, but I had a video and notice an area and wished to crop it to ROI to see if I could get something out of it. I have not used PIPP in ages - I have PIPP x64 2.5.9v. I have set ROI and AFB centred to small area and if I uncheck 'Show AFB/ROI, I see the 'correct' area shown only - as it should. After I processed it, all I get is the top left quarter of the video and the bottom right corner is almost where the AFB is - i.e. ROI is shifted to top left ! I do not understand. I will re-install PIPP, it might be corrupted or it is my fault not seeing something. Any idea?
  14. Received ITF and replaced it. This morning taken PST to work, as it was sunny. Tried it visually for about 20 minutes and is 95% better - using a 8-24mm Zoom, a nice arch + smaller prominence on top left. The only thing left is a bit of 'shading' coming from the tuner, but I guess that should be normal - I am no expert, just a guess. Looking forward to use it now - if I match home days with sunny days - finally The Sun goes over my garage so, it suddenly added 2 more hours + it comes up over neighbour's house an hour earlier!
  15. I managed to order one ITF from Maier and waiting for it and also in hope there is NO import charges. In the meantime I played with it a bit to see how my cameras behave with it and I got a few images. I am constantly learning ... as it should be in any hobby really - it is part of it!
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