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triley4

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About triley4

  • Rank
    Nebula

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  • Location
    Preston, Lancashire
  1. Hi - Many thanks for the advice - I'm going to have another attempt at looking for the manufacturers alignment points failing that a trip to deepest darkest east lancashire might be a nice venture out Once again thankyou for all your responses. Ant
  2. Hi - Was wondering if anyone could help me? I've recieved a second hand Orange C8 but it has a rotating secondary. It just spins around in the corrector plate with about .5 mm wiggle room. To make things worse I think the previous owner has attempted to remove the corrector at some stage so I'm not sure what to do. I know I have to align all 3 optical elements but not the foggest where to start. The corrector appears to have two lines etched on the edge at right angles. Say 12 and 3 O'clock - but dont know if this is 11 or 2 O'clock or what ever configuration. I can not discern an corresponding marks on the tube body or down at bottom on the mirror. Ant
  3. Hi - Congratulations on starting your build. I started mine a couple of weeks ago - I am following a Heath Robinson ethos with mine. 50 x pondering and imagining what it would look like (I have no plans on paper), 4 x measuring, 1 x times cutting, 1 x daily revising my mental image of the end product and ever increasing complexities I'd like to add. Like your self, health as much as convenience dictated the need for an obsy - Carrying an eq six and full imaging rig with all its ancillary into the hulo is tough on the fittest of people. Good question on membrane - Hope some one picks it up. I've bought some thing called builders paper. Hope it does the job. As well as water tight, from what I gathered it is careful balance of insulation/ventilation/circulation. I keep saying this but will start my build thread shortly. Will be following your progress. Ant
  4. Yeah I'm going to float a deck around this in the coming weeks - then moving forwards build a roll off roof and warm room about 3 metres from the pier. As I havnt first lighted the set up yet I have no real idea about vibrations. I do notice a vibe if I lay my hand on the concrecte cap and mildly slap the brick work about 3/4's up. It disappears in a micro second but it'll prove trouble some when I start imaging. I'm hoping the az eq6 and my imaging rig will surpress this with its weight but then again it might make it worse. When i installed the rebar as I went further up the column laying bricks I had to put it under some mild force as I wasn't careful with correctly aligning it vertically. The vibe feels like a taught piece of metal being pinged except it's through brick. I'm really hoping this has not made the pier crucially flawed. The tick of the mounts motors might trigger the vibe.
  5. It's just sat on a bed of motar and brick with 2 rebars going through, up from the paving slabs, to the concrete cap. Will be drilling and fixing some M10 or M12 into that over the coming days. Just finishing off the adaptor. From the brick build posts I have read aparently a brick built pier with or without rebar is stable enough without anchors as long as the slabs don't move.
  6. There is a bin over it all at the moment - There is a roll off roof shed going over once I've got the adaptor in place. Keep an eye out as I'll start a thread on it shortly.
  7. Going to drill my hole for my azimuth adjustment doul - my Magnetic declination is -2° 5' from my location and aparently the Declination is NEGATIVE (WEST). So question is - If 12 O'clock is as it is on the original tripod do I drill closer to 1 am or 11 pm on my mount apadtor? The mount / pier faces pretty much magnetic north according to my compass. Would 12 O'clock suffice on an az eq6? Pictures of my double bull nose brick pier to follow pending an answer that oozes with authority and knowledge Nb answers must be posted with a simpleton in mind and understanding.
  8. Hi All - First light at long last! An hour and an half set up time cos I am rusty but so chuffed with the results. What a remarkable piece of kit through an ED 80 on a humble EQ2-3. Never anticipated what a joy it was to use. As foretold the hot pixels where not an issue. Didn't bother with dark frames this time round but by my reckoning I only have a few when the temp is down. The first image is un-stacked and the second is stacked - got the horizontal banding some have reported on the stacked image but I don't know if this a cause for concern or not? Thanks for the advice and I can't wait to get out again. Bring on the obys this summer so I can just point and shoot at leisure.
  9. It sure does thanks - Ref LS live Do you think the pix will effect viewing? I aprieciate dark frames in guiding will negate them but when I first saw the star field of hot pix with the cap on I thought that it would make distinqushing a star from a hot pix when merely observing was going to be an exspensive nightmare.
  10. Thanks for your response - My main reason for getting it was Lodestar live as I struggle at the eye piece now cos of my health - I'd be taking crude images with it also - It would act as an alternative guide when I image with my dslr only. Would hot pix hinder me in Lodestar live ? I expected at lot less with a chip rated class A.
  11. Hi - Recieved my LS x2 C this week - Quick run out of the box across two different machines showed these hot pix As you can see the exposure settings differ but the hot pix are still there I ran it via lodestarlive and starlight software but still present. Does anyone think I have a duffer here?
  12. Ince Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
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