Christopher Davenport

Thanks for the thought but it's not a competition, especially since Jonas and I are friends and I host some of his kit here. The Andromeda mosaic was, quite rightly, the subject of huge appreciation - and it was a one man show. Ours is a double act!

Olly

Appreciate the sentiment, it was done in jest, to draw attention to the level of effort involved in both pieces.

Both are fantastic contributions to amateur astronomy.

Hey guys,

This image is 10 likes behind the 45 hour andromeda. 

http://stargazerslounge.com/best-content/

Surely 400hrs deserves the top spot !

Come on like it if you like it! 

This is proper stuff, real commitment! I would love to see a 8m print. 

You should raise funds for it using crowd sourcing!

Hello Stargazer

So I have decided to make my first blog entry on processing using Photoshop 5
 

Download the Photoshop Actions  used in this Video.
Download the HLVG (Green removal filter) used in this Video.

Hello,

This is a great post, but somewhat dated now, plus webcam DSO pics just don't compare with DSLR pics. (These can now be picked up at very good prices.)

My current kit which came in around a £1000 at used prices and allows me to research, goto and frame, capture, guide, stack, process, publish.

Used Prices:

Mount - EQ5Pro            -  £300

Scope - SW127             - £150 + £50 Reducer (6.3)

Guide - Finder & QHY5  - £160

Camera - 600D              - £200

Laptop - X201                - £200

All software that I use is free. Although I do own PS5, so I do use this as well as GIMP.

This does not need to be a expensive sport, although as you go cheaper, your image quality suffers.

My advice to those that are new to the sport, is this, do your research, set yourself a target and stick to your budget.

Once you have bought your kit learn to milk it to it's full potential before buying more.

I have seen many people go against the norm on this forum and produce amazing pictures.

Off you go then!

I really don't want to put a downer on such a wonderful gift but this is totally not the right telescope for astrophotography with a DSLR.

The Skymax has a very long native focal length and very slow focal ratio, this makes it ideal for planetary viewing and imaging but a Nikon  DSLR is not the right camera for planetary imaging. The chip is too big really, planets are very small, and Nikon tends to be not well supported with software. For imaging planets, most good images come from specialised fast frame rate cameras or even modified webcams. Cameras that can take many hundreds of exposure, usually as a video clip, which is then post-processed with stacking software to produce the final image. You would want an EQ5 at minimum for this due to the focal length mainly.

DSLR cameras are much more suited to astrophotography of large faint deep sky objects, but for that you need a shorter focal length and much faster focal ratio optics than a Skymax. For DSLR you want to be around f/5 ideally. You will also be using very long exposures. These objects are very faint. Very long exposures means you need a hyper-accurate tracking mount. the generally recommended minimum is the larger HEQ5 mount, and you will probably want to add an autoguider at some stage.

If you want to stick with the Skymax 150 telescope, and your stated budget, I would be inclined to get an AZ4 mount and just use it visually. It is a wonderful visual scope, especially suited to viewing the moon and planets but with enough aperture to show you some of the smaller brighter deep sky objects as well

Forget about astrophotography for a while. Get yourself a copy of Making Every Photon Count by Steve Richards and do a bit of homework first

+ 1 on this. Skymax are best for planetary observing and webcam + stacking.

Check the planetary imaging forums on this site for advice.

Good news is that you can get a skywatcher alt az goto mount used for ₤150.

Your tracking does not need equatorial precisetion for planetary work.

Nice scope by the way, observing m catalogue, planets and the moowill be mighty fine through this

Ps last attempt at 990 images.

http://stargazerslounge.com/uploads/gallery/album_2903/gallery_32740_2903_5622.jpg

Thanks for this tut it has taken my planetary from zero to hero.

By the way, I need some advice on imaging Jup.

(I too have a 127 Mak cas at f12)

What is the longest to expose before rotation effects?

Is it better to Barlow up to f24 or f48?

I usually capture images as bmp instead of video.

And don't use raw as debaur is complex and does it at value on a stack of 2000+?

Sorry for all the questions but I am gonna go for broke this weekend on next gap in clouds.

Thanks for any advice and keep up the good work.