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Everything posted by ultramol

  1. Yes, I think thats what it may be, it is often used when people on here give critique to others work. I have looked but could not see what was meant with this particular saying
  2. Thanks James, I can vouch for knocking the mount......I have done that more than once.... No, it was just a question if I did adjust my scope with the dec control whilst imaging would I have to sync it . I am only talking of a slight movement here to re centre the object in the finder scope
  3. Could someone explain what hollowed out stars are please and how you recognise one ?....Many thanks ....Geoff
  4. If, after aligning and doing a 3 star synching, sometime later in the session my target has moved slightly in the fiderscope would I have to sync again if I nuged my scope with the direction controls in eqmod. or should I just leave it after moving it, many thanks......geoff
  5. Thats great. I can now remove the camera and get on with taking everything back in the house whilst my darks are being taken. I think I will make a dedicated dark box. Many thanks for your input.
  6. Hi olly, if I take the camera off and screw a dust cap on the lens opening then start firing off the darks maybe under a cover will that be ok ? and do you need mirror lock up when doing darks or can I omit that to speed the process up, i.e. does camera shake affect darks ?.......Geoff
  7. Hi Goran, did this need tracking to take your images ?
  8. I will try that and re run my data, thanks again
  9. I have it sussed now. Because I have to use the 2 second timer on my camera to get the intervalometer to work there is a light on the camera that flashes whilst the timer is on, a very bright light. I wrapped a CLEAN pair of my black jockey shorts around the camera where the T2 adapter goes on the camera and enters the focuser tube. My darks then are truly dark and when used with my lights there is no noise at all on my pictures. This has only worked once as the clouds are back but I am hopeful blacking out the timer light may help.
  10. I have just started using a bhatinov mask with my DSLR. I have found that if the star you focus on is just slightly overexposed then the spikes on the mask are not "Fine" enough to centre them. It was only a shot in the dark ( no pun intended ) that I underexposed the star and I realised that centring the spikes was achievable very easily. So now I just take a very quick shot then magnify it on the camera screen to 100% and adjust focus in very small steps with my auto focuser. If the spikes are blurred then it was just guesswork as everything just blended in to each other but doing it the way I have explained made the spikes very discernible.
  11. Thanks for the encouragement.......
  12. Cool, I will now have a go at some image processing...many thanks.....geoff
  13. extraordinary image, Just mindblowing........
  14. Can I use darks taken the day after on another imaging session. The focus and times were the same, temperature I would say close to the same, if not the same the only difference was the target. Its a bit confusing this !! On monday my lights were fine but my darks failed. On tuesday my lights were fine and my darks were fine, Everything the same so will the darks from tuesday be ok for the lights of monday, whew.....that took some sorting out....lol
  15. I used the rgb setting and immediately got better result. Before no matter what I did I could not get the nebula to show up. After the change I got this.....It needs more work but at least I can see it now, thank you all very much
  16. Thanks all for your help, much appreciated....Regards.....geoff
  17. Is this command in DSS, if it is then I didnt select it
  18. Can anyone tell me why the red green and blue histograms at the end of stacking in DSS are all seperate from each other. I only ask as when I have looked at tutorials they allways seem to be together. Also why do my bright stars in my photos not have diffraction spike on them when others seem to have them. Many thanks.......Geoff
  19. Here is my effort of M13 taken last night. Just guesswork on the settings but I did 30 x 30 second subs and 30 dark frames at ISO 800. Stacked them in DSS with default settings then finished off in CS5. Any help offered to better this would be greatly appreciated.
  20. I was out imaging M13 last night and it was crystal clear......Except...you guessed, one cloud sat right under the cluster. Kicked a few things around the garden and the cloud just dissapeared. Will try this again !!!
  21. The core is blown out in the subs. How come some use 5 minute subs and get away with it. Mine were only 60 second subs. Thanks to everyone for your help, much appreciated.....Regards....Geoff
  22. Its just one of my 30, 60 second subs, They are all the same. This is my first attempt at andromeda with a dslr and light pollution is a problem for me. It is not guided I am at present trying to process it in PS and it looks a lot better than the sub. A bit of detail in the galaxy, not much but first go. I thought it might be a focus problem though I used a bahtinov mask and it seemed bang on. I think I will start with globular clusters and see if I can get my stars right. I will show you were I am up to, we all have to start somewhere.... This is thirty subs and only 1 dark as my camera played up.
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