Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.



New Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About davelrkn

  • Rank
  1. Hi All It has been mentioned earlier that an accurate home position will help with getting a better pointing position. I have copied and pasted page 33 from the EQMod Manual on setting home position and hope I have not broken any copyright rules here but works a charm Technique 1 for setting the home position (from Mon) To accurately set your mount to the Home position, you need a leveler (digital or bubble both work adequately). 1. Position the counterweight shaft horizontally and level it using the bubble level on the counterweight shaft. 2. Set the RA setting circle to read 6 hours. 3. Lock the RA setting circle. 4. While the counterweight shaft is in the horizontal position, level the DEC side (dovetail and scope) horizontally using the leveler on the dovetail (or on the telescope). 5. Move your DEC setting circle to read the exact degrees as indicated on your mount's altitude indicator (your site's altitude). Choose the DEC degree setting such when you move the scope to 0 Degrees DEC circle (cw shaft still in horizontal position), end of tube should move up). 6. Lock the DEC setting circle. 7. Set the mount to the RA Home Position by moving the RA shaft until it points to 0 Hours. (counterweights should now be pointing down). 8. Set the mount to the DEC Home Position by moving the DEC shaft until the DEC setting circle reads 0 degrees. 9. Scope should be pointing at NCP/SCP (North Celestial Pole/South Celestial Pole) at this point. Once you have found this position, you may be able to find places on the mount that are level so that you can reset the mount, if necessary, without repeating the above procedure. Remember to level mount first Info taken from EQ MOD Manual for EQ6 HEQ5 series mounts Cheers Dave
  2. Hi All Just to let those who maybe interested in a new crosshair program just released by a 12 year old in the US called CentriSky Features Crosshair and Bullseye style grids that can be sized and rotated to fit over any imaging window Rotation speed of grids adjustable Grid Transparency adjustable Compass points NSEW on crosshairs switchable Built in Timer Only works with Windows Vista but testing being done for XP Version Website Home He is offering a full trial version good for ten (10) uses and can be purchased later for $10USD. Great little program and works well and worth a visit Cheers Dave
  3. Hi Everyone I realize that Australia would be a little of the radar for some but would like to extend a warm welcome to anyone that maybe visiting downunder during the above period. This years Astrofest will be our 16th event and is held at the Lions Camp Duckadang Linville about a 2 hour drive North West of Brisbane.We have had each year International Amateurs attend and are amazed at the beauty of the Southern Hemishere Skies. The month of August is coming to the end of our Winter and has the Milky Way positioned right over head a sight to behold. You never know you might even discover a Supernova as one Amateur did in 1997 hence the Motto "Starry one night Supernova the Next" Further info can be found at the Astrofest Web Site Queensland Astrofest Homepage Cheers Dave
  4. Hi Robert Have you tried using the feature in Vista to run your program under XP.I use Vista and run a number of programs in xp mode and works well Did you mention that you could not get Ascom Platform to run with Vista as I have no problems with Ascom Platform or Eq Mod and a few older software programs Cheers Dave
  5. Hi Michael I myself am new to DSLR imaging and can understand the learnng curve with seems very steep at times If you check is same forum section you willl see a tread "Stacking Comet Images" by George and then look at the reply by Apatchy who does a nice job on explaining the process in DSS. I have found when stacking Raws in DSS that they are normally very dark when the stacking is completed and is the case for me when using Canon 450d. It's not until you load them into programs like Photoshop or Paintshop Pro and start making the adjustments with levels,curves ect that they will start to brighten up. I am still learning myself and there are a lot of Members on this forum with a lot more experience than myself that may like to chime in with other advise. Hope this helps Cheers Dave
  6. Hi Steve Not sure if I keep the tread going here or repost new thread as its been a few days for an update I picked up the adaptor which was the standard 2'' eyepiece one that is supplied with the Skywatcher after having it machined down to about 5mm which was enough for the locking screws to hold the mpcc in place and was able to achieve focus. Works well as the Camera is positioned fairly close to the OTA. I have another question if you can help. I used the mpcc with a Orion Skyglow filter and have found that when checking the histogram I do not have the same range of adjustment as without the filter and after checking other images it has cut the Red channel sensitivity.The Histogram is now displaying a very thin black line around two to three mm to the left Is there a setting that I am not adjusting correctl I have tried all types of programs Photo Shop ,Max Lm ect too no avail. It would help a lot if I knew what I was doing Cheers Dave
  7. When observing with binoculars instead of using both hands to hold as normal, try using both hands together on one side of binoculars with fingers interlocked just behind objective lens. You will then find this keeps both elbows together and can then position them agaist your chest and lean back to required observing position.It may take a few goes to get used too. I have found this method helps heaps in keeping bino's very steady when observing.
  8. Hi Pete That certainly made sense as you explained it in a way that was easy to understand Thanks heaps. Do you know of a tutorial on this forum that explains the best method of stacking raws in DSS with regard to best proven settings do's and dont's ect Cheers Dave
  9. Hi Ron l agree with you that is vertually impossible to completly remove flexure but for those of use that don't have a workshop and limited tools, can do something to improve on what we have has to be a plus.The mod that I have done has made such a huge difference .was worth the effort. With flexure I remember a number of years ago a club member who is a fitter and turner stating that he had measured flexure in a piece of steel 6'' long and 6'' in diameter. Thanks for your reply Cheers Dave
  10. Hi Everyone I have a EQ6 Pro and decided that the standard dovetail that was supplied with the mount was not strong enough and was causing to much flexure to the OTA and was the weak link in a very stable mount.It is well documented over the net on different forums of this problem with the EQ6 mount and have looked at different suggestions and mods that have been put forward. I have looked at different ways to find a solution that would be fairly easy to achieve and not take a lot of effort. I purchased a William Optics long type (Vixen Style) which is very solid and paid around $90 AUD and may sound hefty in price as well but feel well worth the money considering the overall price of the mount. It was very easy to adapt as the two main bolts I used were 50mm x 1/4 and screwed straight into the dovetail both ends as they were the same thread as the dovetail.I made sure the bolts went through the full thickness of the dovetail as the front would then act as a safey in case the OTA ever slipped. The dovetail comes with a number of pre-drilled holes and it just happened that without to much effort I could then add extra support by using four more bolts 38mmx 1/4 one on each corner to stabilize the OTA even further.It is inportant here to note that these four supportng bolts are not adjusted to thightly as they will push the tube rings slightly away at thier base where the two main bolts pass through on the dovetail resulting in some flexure to return.They should only be adjusted enough to add the extra support to the tube rings to stabilize the OTA.It was at this stage that the only drilling that I did was to drill four small location points on the tube rings so that the four 38mm bolts had something to grip against.The whole exercise took me about 20minutes to complete. The reason I wanted to stabilize my OTA was for imaging and felt the suppied dovetail was just not up to standard and although this mod was done for my EQ6 Pro the William Optics dovetail does suit a lot of other mounts like Celestron or any mount that has a Vixen style dovetail,maybe also adapted in this manner. William Optics Web Site has a list of Mounts that suit their dovetails ttp://www.williamoptics.com/accessories/accessories_mounting.php Though I would share this with the forum as it maybe of some help to those that may have an issue with dovetail flexure. Cheers Dave
  11. G'Day Paul A warm welcome to SGL Enjoy your stay Cheers Dave
  12. Hi Steve I will wait for the Corrector to arrive and check if I have a focusing issue.If I then need to have an adaptor machined up, have a mate who is also an amatuer who would be able to machined one up on his lathe. Will keep you posted. Thanks Steve for your support. Cheers Dave
  13. Hi Steve Thanks for the info Looks like I could have an issue here will let you know how I go as I expect the Corrector to arrive Monday or Tuesday. Does the probable work around you mention in your original Email involve moving the mirror up the tube as I have thought of that and will not be an easy task as the Skywatcher tube has the mirror cell fixed around the end of the tube and would have to cut some off the end of the tube.The last time I moved a mirror cell was fairly easy as the cell was fixed inside the tube and no fitting around the end of tube assy if you can understand what I mean. Cheers Dave
  14. Hi John and Steve Thank you both for your input I will take on board your advise and make my adjustments a little more subdued in the contrast and brightness areas and John will have a look at the histogram a little more closley now I know what to look for as this is all part of the learning curve. Thanks again guys for your time and sharing your expertise too a newby in imaging Cheers Dave
  15. Hi Steve Thanks for your reply Yes I have the old style rack and pinoin but did have the crayford on the 8'' before I sold it for the upgrade to the 10'''. Do you believe I will have an inward focus issue as they state in the specs that the MPCC adds about 10mm outward focus and could it be different with the fact i am using a 450d Cheers Dave
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.