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vulkan

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About vulkan

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    Nebula

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    Male
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    Nottinghamshire
  1. I machine Delrin quite often and it can be a joy compared to some materials. As has been mentioned you need to have drills with the cutting edge dulled slightly so they don't have a tendency to grab and lift the material. Take the drill and lay it parallel to a sharpening stone, with the cutting lip on the front of the drill resting on the stone and give it a few swipes, you don't need to remove much at all, you now have drill bits that will do a much better job in grabby materials such as plastics and brass (I have a separate set that i built up every time I did this to a specific d
  2. Have you considered polymer concrete? Its not really concrete its just one of its names, epoxy granite is a more accurate name. Its actually epoxy resin filled with lots of different filler materials to give it the right characteristics. There are some very expensive machine tools using it for its high dimensional stability, and vibration damping capabilities. I could imagine using it to cast a rough parabola and then having a thin layer of pure epoxy on the surface to make polishing easier, if you picked the right composite ingredients it could be pretty thin and strong and wouldn't have the
  3. Hi Matthew The framing and mosaic wizard is mostly for mosaics yes, but you can also call up an image and see how it would fit in a single frame then rotate and centre it to your liking. SGP will then match what you see on screen, I have only used it for a mosaic once to capture andromeda in two frames. unfortunately i had my filters in the wheel mixed up so the data was pretty useless please do let me know about the focuser
  4. The light speed button is just staggering! makes you realise how slow it really is on this sort of scale.
  5. I'm currently experiencing my second light with SGP. If you do look at it I recommend installing a local Astrometry.net plate solver, I haven't had a failed plate solve yet but elbrus was hit and miss if your mount pointing isn't all that great, (learned that the first time I used it) Things I have learned tonight: - make sure you use PHD2, it doesn't seem to talk to PHD1 for me - you need to start PHD and run the config before you run a sequence - the frame and mosaic wizard is definitely worth the extra cash - rotating your frame by 3 degrees by hand is hard!! other than that, its awesome, I
  6. Hi Mike, Sorry its taken so long to reply, had to disappear from the forum for a bit to sort life out. But now thats out of the way and the dust is blown off the scope! the USB to RS232 is a HitecAstro EQDIR that i shortened the cable down to fit. Nick
  7. Hi Ivo, I will happily offer my services and try the software with my camera, its an SBIG STF-8300M and CFW5 filter wheel. Nick
  8. I make a habit of only using stainless steel screws on things, in plain old steel a bit of copper grease stops the screws galling, in aluminium a couple of winds of teflon tape keeps things separate. Im not saying its the best solution but it seems to work for me so far.
  9. Sorry its taken a while to update, had a crazily busy couple of weeks, here is the finished product attached to the mount with double sided tape The two power taps are connected to the main power input of the USB hub and are 2 pin connectors from Maplin. I also had a new toy delivered, a shiny new CCD and filter wheel, so apologies everyone for all the clouds!
  10. 4 around here, jumping to 7 when the local sports world warehouse has its vast banks of lights turned on.
  11. Some mono CCD's are much more red sensitive than in other colours, using the same length of exposure for each colour would then result in a very red image (though maybe not this much?) You should aim to adjust the exposure lengths so that the white parts of an image are equally as bright in all of the separate colours. then again I'm still at the research stage of colour imaging with a mono CCD so I could be totally wrong.
  12. Sorry its taken a while to reply, I got mine from a Chinese eBay seller but one that has a UK stock distribution. There are a few of them about now that sell from China but ship from the UK (free postage is a good clue) I have found the service from these sort of sellers to be great and the shipping speed to be very fast. I have now drilled the end plate of the USB hub for some 2 pin connectors from Maplin so I can get my power distribution set up from inside the hub. Pictures to follow soon
  13. Not too far away, I'm actually closer to Mansfield. Only 40 mins or so away really.
  14. Sometimes the journey is terrible, gruelling, and leads to blistered fingers and blue air. the results however are worth it. Sometimes the journey is fantastic and full of learning experiences, but you get no end result. This seems to be the rare occurrence of an enjoyable journey and superb end result! That is a fantastic Pic, and all the better no doubt for doing it with something you had a hand in building
  15. I recently made a random eBay purchase to add to my astro kit and hopefully this will not just be a review but will be a record of the mods I make. I hate cables, they are tangled irritating bundles of spaghetti that seem to be out to get me frustrated, I had the idea of mounting a USB hub on my mount so I could have a short untangle-able cable loom and ONE usb cable to my PC. I am also now looking at adding power distribution to it, but more of that later....... Presenting the Orico 10 port USB 3.0 hub. First impression is that this thing is HUGE, I seem to have bought the monolith from 2001
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