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Igwiz

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About Igwiz

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  1. Hi Adam - Is that in reference to the "larger red stars"? I am using the suggested SW CC and no UV/IR block. On the "cutting off", I checked last year's images and I don't get this also I have changed cameras from a 314L+ to a 460EX but wouldn't have thought that would make a difference. Before I go hacksawing, could it be the secondary mirror alignment?
  2. Thanks! I'm sure the drawtube wasn't a problem when I was succesfully imaging last year (will need to go back and check my images!) so could it therefore be a misalignment of the mirrors causing the drawtube to get in the way? i.e. need to do a full recollimation?) DOn't want to unnecessarily cut the tube!
  3. Hi guys, Having spent a long time getting my PA and guiding to a very decent level, I am now back to doing the fun stuff! But two questions if I may please. Target last night was M3 in RGB but looking at my subs I have noticed two issues: 1/ The stars in the R image are "bigger" than B and G. (And G is bigger than B). Naturally that leaves red halos when I combine the images. Is this simply a focus issue with the filters not being exactly parfocal? 2/ I appear to be "cutting off" some of the star! (See photo zoomed in). Is this a drawtube issue or a pinched mirror? Many thanks for any thoughts! Ig (150PDS with Atik 460EX)
  4. Thanks. Just decreased the detection level to 6% (from 10%) and it worked fine! Bit odd but happy again!
  5. Hi guys, Bit puzzled by this. You will see in the attached that the lower right corner of a DSS stacked image is warped whereas the rest of the image appears ok. I have 6 subs and tried various combos of mixing them and I get similar results - different shaped warps but still warped! These are red filter, all the other colours that night are fine. Each individual sub looks fine too in DSS (slightly diagonal translation as you move between them but no rotation) I am sure someone will have come across this so any thoughts gratefully received! Many thanks Ig Odd_Stack.TIF
  6. Just realised I had been a complete numpty. I had treated the Ha data as a luminance layer rather than adding it into the red channel. So here's another bash at it!
  7. Thanks! Looking better already!! What else would you do to this image?
  8. Hi all (again), So I took advantage of the clear skies over the past 2 nights to try my first "proper" nebula outing with an Ha filter. It is great to actually get stuck in at last! Managed about 3hrs of Ha (meant to bin it but forget to set it) and then a relatively lesser amount of RGB (2x2 about 30mins each). Also remembered to do some flats! Registered, stacked, aligned, resized Ha, levelled and combined in PS. What I can't work out though is how to bring more detail out in the colour (both the red and the blue) that the Cocoon is known for. I have played with Hue and Saturation but to no great avail. Would really appreciate a tip or two as I am sure it is something basic I am missing. Quite pleased with the composite apart from the colour aspect! Many thanks Ig
  9. Thanks guys. Had another go at combining (in photoshop) and got a better result, as below. This time I combined before doing any level/curve adjustment etc. Is that the right way round? Olly - forgive me - on 2/ I simply cut and paste each coloured stack into the appropriate channel. Never even considered white balance. Do I need to? What I have noticed however is that the stars on my red subs (andeven more so on the lums) are "bigger" then on the green and blue. This creates red halos when you align as you can imagine. Assuming the subs are in focus, why would the red/lum filter create larger stars and what can I do about that? Is it exposure time? Appreciate you help! Thanks Ig
  10. Hi all, Not sure whether I am expecting too much but I chose to try M103 tonight given it has a number of very red stars in and around it. I am using a 314L+ mono with filter wheel. I took 5x120secs 1x1 for each of the 4 filters which I figured was plenty to capture the colours (although L adds nothing as you can imagine). I attach the picture below and as you can see there isn't the deep red you see in other images of M103 I have seen. I popped each stacked master into the respective channel and aligned the best I could. Am I expecting too much or have I gone wrong or missed a step? Many thanks Ig
  11. So some success here I think. If you look at the new image the leaks seem to have been banished. I am pretty certain the circulars were coming from the primary end (which I covered with blackout material) although I was still getting some gradient so cover the whole of the observing end in a towel. (Will need to find a better solution for that!) So that is good. But I have noticed in the image below a semi-circular smear just right of centre. What on Earth could be causing that??
  12. Thanks Olly - makes sense re the calibrations. I did my darks in the very dark too (nighttime, closed obsy, tea towels over camera).
  13. Thanks Olly - is that an "extra" cover they supply or should it have been in the box originally? I have it had it a just over a year now and can't recall seeing one. Perhaps in the meantime I should dismount the camera from the filter wheel and scope and block the window with a well taped cap? But also, taking into account what was said above by Wim, albeit about glow, if this leak is in my optical system, should I also leave it in the darks to calibrate out or would the flats take care of it? And lastly, could the leak possibly be down at the other end where the primary mirror sits? I think I have noticed daylight coming in there before. Will go and check later but should I think about covering the primary ends with blackout material? (using a 150pds newt). (Might also explain some of the gradients I seem to get on my lights!) Your thoughts are most appreciated! Thanks.
  14. Thanks. I should have mentioned I am using a cooled Atik 314L+. If the amp glow suggestion still applies I would assume it is that given there was no source of light to leak in? Will have another play today.
  15. Thanks guys. To close this out, just reporting back, it was indeed my being to "soft" with the secondary. I adjusted the spider vans by a couple of mm but the biggy was being a lot rougher with the rotation. Am in a lot better place, still some tweaking to do but usable! So for anybody reading this in the search for their own solutions, my learning on this is (and particularly if you have removed the secondary at any point) don't be afraid of giving it a good old tug! Thanks again.