rob0971

Now you mention it................;-)

Just received the last eyepiece in my collection, the 24mm 82 deg from Explore scientific. The case is a large maplins one.

You can still screw a short vixen dovetail (about £25) to your camera body or lens. Use 2 screws on the lens & 1 if bolting to the camera body. It will be fine!

I used to mount my Nikon 600mm f4 using a vixen dovetail onto my AZ EQ6. No problem with the weight (around 7 kg). Just screw it onto your existing tripod foot where there should be a couple of 1/4" fixing holes. I have an Arca swiss foot on mine & I just bolted the vixen dovetail on the bottom of that.

I just nip it up. That is tight enough & the mount still moves when turning the bolts.

I made my own as I felt that 8" was not long enough. I think mine is 14" from memory. Really solid & as stable as it is without. I now never have to worry about the scope colliding with the tripod legs.

The second shows the room at the eyepiece end with a telrad tucked under the dessicant cap. Should give you some idea of how much room you have.

Rob

Hi Alan,

I take my finder etc off for storage. I will get some pics later for you. The box is long enough to fit the scope in with a revelation focusser on the back or a 2" clicklock visual back with my homemade dessicant cap. You could possibly keep a telrad/finder at the eyepiece end, but I keep mine in there original foam lined boxes.

I have one of these http://www.diy.com/nav/rooms/storage-shelving/boxes-baskets/plastic_boxes/Kis-Scuba-Box-106L-Black-13198584?skuId=13679290

For my 9.25. Lined it with dense 1" foam & it fits a treat! The lid is hermetically sealed also as a bonus. It also has a couple of small wheels on one end.

Baader clicklock, do a clamp with the skywatcher thread on. They do T2, M56 threaded (celestron & SW), SCT, M68 & M84 threaded. Does your drawtube have any of these threads when you unscrew the current eyepiece holder? The width of the clicklock will also double as a extension piece as well.

Yes, I always use a polyester resin for fixing bolts into concrete. Not necessarily the Fischer brand, though.

It does set pretty quick, so you have to have your wits about you (and all the parts, too). The nozzles contain a criss-cross plastic insert to mix the resin and the hardener. After one job, the resin in the nozzle will set solid, so you want to do all your holes one after the other - so have them all pre-drilled.

If using a mixer nozzle, make sure you dump the first bit out as it does not always mix properly & it won't set. I have had this problem securing machinery down in the past at work. Once the first bit has gone & its mixing well it will be fine.

Welcome to sgl. I will be watching your diy skills with interest.

My local shop, MC2 in frome have been fantastic. Great advice & always up for some haggling. I have had some cracking deals from Charles.

Online I would recommend flo & also had some great deals from Rother valley optics. Modern astronomy has also provided great service.