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Everything posted by jiberjaber

  1. Is it me or does the ZWO offset 50 (i.e. second image in each row) appear to be the better of teh 3 filters? - it's hard to compare clicking through them on the screen - might need to download and blink through?
  2. That will certainly make life easier!
  3. Looking forward to seeing that in action. I can't remember where I got up to in tinkering but from the video in the back up I used looks like mine last worked 4th Oct before I took it down.
  4. Well after a while I forgot about my all-sky camera and the SD card was full... so I took it inside to resuscitate is and it never made it back out until just now! I had taken a backup of home, etc and www but I had to piece together what I had done in the meantime to get it running... I suppose I should really document it but it helped being able to scroll through this thread as an aide memoire ! I need to sort out some internal heating for dew control and also a 12V feed then looking at the FoV now, I think it should be ready to move on to a pole at the end of the garden away from the
  5. I've considered similar, my egg seat cover has done sterling job but as the weather closes in there is more condensation under there. A simple bar heater with thermostat may do, say 30W. eg https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hylite-Slimline-Tubular-Heater-HHT203/dp/B00TFHBEDG Problem I can foresee which I'd like feedback on is where does the evaporated condensation go to Plus I had no plans to run 240VAC to my pier, ethernet and 13VDC was my plan!
  6. There are some online tools which can help identify what targets might work for your location and equipment then it comes down to what you fancy from a shorter list Give here a try: https://telescopius.com/deep-sky/search
  7. You're probably not using the right search term, you'd need to confirm the internal dimension but it's usually something like 5.5 OD 2.1ID plenty of solder versions around... for example: https://www.mouser.co.uk/Connectors/Power-Connectors/DC-Power-Connectors/_/N-axitt?No=25&P=1z0wxf2Z1z0wxfc There are right-angle ones on that link too but I suspect it would be neater to cut down an existing right-angle lead and solder a straight barrel connector on to it.
  8. So you don't do any sort of alignment before stacking? Irrespective of tracking accuracy etc, you probably need to align before stacking? I expect quite a few of the software packages do some sort of distortion correction as part of the registration of images
  9. What are you stacking in, Pixinsight tries to deal with distortion first before alignment, once all aligned, then stack it... might be worth taking a look at that. Want to share the files? I'm sure a few of us could have a go for you to help narrow down on to a way forward....
  10. That's cracking, I really should get round to processing my data for this though I am not sure its 900 mins I've got! It certainly gives me something to aim for now
  11. Nice wide capture, you've also ticked off Pelican Nebula in the bottom right quarter of the image
  12. How sensitive will be 1 tip bucket of water relative to how quick do you need to get the roof closed due to rain? Not sure I'd trust my rain gauge for that - I'd probably want a capacitance / resistance style rain detector for the RoR ?
  13. That's a good result, it's a shame you don't have part night lighting like here in Essex - it's great when they all go off. Only issue is when they are all off and you go past houses that have front activated lights and they then blind you as it is so relatively dark!
  14. Maximisation Limit Line It's the line used when you maximise an image window as the boundary past it won't go, as Mark mentioned most use it to put their process icons the right of it so they are still accessible when an image window is maximised.
  15. I think it depends on what you are trying to present in the image. Starless certainly has a place in the processing, it enables working on parts of the image without impacting the stars, or just working on the stars themselves. Sometimes it's better to "lower the volume" on the stars, using Starnet to do that and perhaps bring the stars back in at a lower intensity allows the intended focus of the image to be more present. Sometimes seeing the target without stars allows more of the detail to be seen by others who may not know it's there in the first place. Starnet has a place
  16. Now includes Starnet and some new options on some of the processes, but it does require an uninstall/reinstall. One I have tried out as a quick test is Adaptive Normalisation in the Image Integration which (in most cases) removes the need to run all the files through Local Normalisation process before integration. I can see a small difference between the Adaptive Normalisation and Local Normalisation results of integration (they look similar, but zoomed in, the dust clouds are a little brighter with more contrast I think) which is great as it now chops out a big time sink of running the L
  17. The Astroberry has a DHCP server running on it (it's how you can connect to it as a local hot spot). However I can't recall if it is just set up so it serves the wireless interface or not! If you can connect to the hotspot and get a DHCP address but when you connect wired you do not get an IP then (assuming the mac is new enough to not need a crossover cable for direct connection) it would suggest the PI isn't serving DHCP (or running the DHCP) on the wired interface. That would make sense as it can cause problems with existing DHCP servers if not configured correctly My scope and PI are
  18. Mark - my recommendation would be to bring the scope indoors, connect the Pi up to your router by ethernet (you dont need the mount etc attached but make sure your camera you will plate solve and scope settings (FL etc) is configured correctly. Start EKOS (could be in simulator mode) and go to the alignment tab, select options and EKOS will recommend which index files you need based on your scope and camera settings. (hover over the little shield symbols shown in the following pic) Download those files and you should then be almost there to being able to plate
  19. That's not correct, there is a setting but it's not where you would expect it to be! If you go to the guide tab in Ekos and select options, turn off "Reset Guide Calibration after each mount slew" that shout preserve your calibration
  20. I think you just need to keep it running and see if there is an issue you can then observe between the two system and make sense of.
  21. If you are not already storing and reading from a database to make the graphs, I think you will always be subject to disruption You can get a similar log using MQTT explorer, might be worth running that and comparing to see if it's a NodeRed issue or something else. Pressure doesn't change that quickly. I run a 3 hour average and use that to derive trend (rising, falling) I do the average on the ESP unit and also broadcast the trend string on MQTT
  22. Mark - you can access the Indi panel from the astroberry.local webpage, there's a bunch of icons on the left but I can't recall which one is the indipanel as I seldom (never) use it... I use the PI to do it all and just VNC in to it to check progress / setup stuff
  23. Sounds like you might need to investigate that first
  24. Wow such an odd problem that! Have you tried it with a none modified camera to isolate it to lens / camera ?
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