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JCJC

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Everything posted by JCJC

  1. Hi all, This is such a good idea, really nice to compare processing of the same data and see different styles! Picking up lots of tips and tricks. I haven't had the chance to process narrowband colour much previously so was playing around and found a nice 'false colour' technique for narrowband data online using R: 0.75xSII+0.25xHa, G: OIII, B: 0.1xHa+0.9xOIII. -Processed RAW files independently in PS with levels and curves initially. (You realise how good the data is when the initial curves is so easy!) -Combined the processed files in the ratios as above and RGB. -More cur
  2. Hi Olly! I hope you are both keeping well in France. Yes it is amazing and like I said, I feel the general standard is so high these days! All the best, J
  3. Thank you both! It was a nice surprise to catch the comet in the frame. Comet is the green slight elongated object top of frame adjacent to star! Quite outshone by APOD Nov 12th! https://apod.nasa.gov/apod/ap201112.html J
  4. Hi all! I've been out of the game for some time now but nice to see familiar faces on SGL! I hope everyone is well and keeping sane and safe! Lots seems to have changed! New cameras, new software, new lots of things! It's hard to get back up to speed after a few years. My Dad (Mick J) keeps me updated. The general image standard is now so high it seems! I have a bit of a natural break in work and life things so enjoying some time in Crete with other half's family currently. First time using portable set-up for me and to be honest a lucky capture with the comet in the frame mostly by
  5. Hi everyone, Long, long time since I've posted. Finally some clear skies in my Summer holidays to take advantage of! Full version on AstroBin: http://www.astrobin.com/full/210107/0/ Ha: 28x10min OIII: 32x10min 10hrs Total, Atik 314L+, ED80 I started a 2nd pane in Ha but I'm off back to university now so I won't finish it in colour this year. Thanks for looking! Jordan
  6. If you are thinking of making your own heater bands (quite easy) then this is one of the best guides, there are others. http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/185968-led-dimmer-dew-controller-full-write-up/ EDIT: almost quick enough ! JCJC' dad
  7. While having a half term break in Hay on Wye noticed a dark skies festival poster, to take place in Hay 21st to 23rd March 2014, more info from here http://www.darkskiesfestival.org Hope this is of interest. JCJC's dad.
  8. There is some math in these 2 pages, you may be able to adjust the numbers or the thread size. http://massapoag.org/astro_2/Equipment/Barndoor_Tracker/Barndoor_Tracker.html http://astunit.com/atm.php?topic=handscotch jcjc' dad
  9. I am sure LiPo or even LiFe radio control packs would lend themselves to powering astro kit, using LiPo in radio control cars over the years I have seen a few packs swell/puff when badly charged, yet to see one randomly catch fire but there are stories, radio controllers had problems with NiMH cells. Dedicated chargers for these batteries are cheap enough and should be used. The packs for flight are soft cased and would need to be boxed, car packs have hard plastic casing with hard wired cables or bullet style connectors. Lipo's need a voltage cutout in the circuit that switches off before
  10. Have you looked into your local society, http://www.abingdonastro.org.uk/aas_blog/ jcjc's dad
  11. Hi Olly! Long time. Looks like an awesome project and should get stunning results! I can't see how it could not reduce noise, did the guy on the French forum give a reason? It seems to me it doesn't matter if it's the same filter in both or different filters, either way you will get twice as much imaging time per session. As long as the correct calibration frames are used it's just like running the one camera for twice as much time. Surely? All the best, Jordan
  12. Not sure if this is helpful, but may try right click the .exe file and pick 'run as administrator' , I am not an expert - jcjc's dad.
  13. Looks a useful app, not all android devices can make use of it, try remote release (free) before paying £5.94 for controller. JCJC's dad
  14. Like the top part of a traditional sash window, on a modern spring system would be possible, three unseen walls could be same as Gina's roof - rubber sheet stuff over ply, wrap the edges - waterproof - may need venting? and may cost as much as plastic cladding. JCJC's Dad
  15. Made a couple from nichrome wire, used this page as a start http://www.iceinspac...92-0-0-1-0.html you may have seen it, we added another row to do circumferences and tried to buy wire from ebay to suit ohms/length/watts. Wire then fed into heatshrink to isolate, we used 2" black velcro to form the tapes, hooks inside fury bit outside and sort of pushed together on the scope to help retain shape. Wire terminated with a bit of connector strip siliconed to the outside (crimp would work), same sort of controllers. They work well and can be pulled apart and adjusted. Most difficult part was so
  16. The standard is here..... http://ghonis2.ho8.com/rebelmod450d1.html Gary Honis, colour correction see page 8. we pulled a 450d with no problem, be more careful with the 1100 looks a bit tighter. JCJC's Dad
  17. We use a B6 charger as above, its amazing value and easy to use. Keith has it about right. JCJC dad
  18. Much the same as charging radio control models, the B6 charger above will do what you want and is common in RC, it runs from 12v (car battery or mains adapter [extra]). You may have to make up a cable from charger to battery pack, 4mm banana to..... Manual: https://astecmodels....x-B6 manual.pdf Depending on your batteries (AA's ?) you will need to set a charge rate (around 0.5Amp), not to high I would have thought. It is possible to find a 230v 'dual' version for approx £30. JCJC's dad
  19. Possibly something like http://www.scopesnsk...t=AB2211#AB2211and http://www.scopesnsk.../nosepiece.html may get you attached, I am not qualified to say if you will get focus on your 200p or how 35mm film will work. Edit: you may only need the T ring ? JCJC's dad
  20. Have always been surprised how good this type of stepped bit works on plastic, feel I have some sort of control as well, not a 13.5mm step tho(12 or 14). http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_3073wt_1122 http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p30591 and a hand reamer would be easier to control http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_2339wt_1250 for adjustments JCJC's dad
  21. We did find a secondhand campingaz box on the bay, like this and stripped the plastic parts off the lid, used the assembly (almost as it came) in the side of an ali box. The peltier came fitted with a lump of ali (1 x 3 x 3) against one side, lots of thermal paste and I think we changed the fans, when finished the box/camera/fans/cables were heavy, but worked almost to Gary Honis spec's. These are at Aldi soon, don't know much about them. We clad the outside of the box with a few layers of depron underfloor insulation, also used for rc aircraft (flying wings). I had plans for a MK3 replacing
  22. you can find this sort of thing, led (possibly not dimmable or special dimmer) but not very bright anyway: LED BC Red Golf Ball Lamp KOSNIC LED 1W ES GOLF BALL RED | eBay any help JCJC's dad
  23. CHDK Wiki Build Your Own Remote Control - RC Groups from Perry's original link, not aiming to do this but very interesting, the RC link is good, cameras triggered using a transmitter/receiver, camera in helicopter etc JCJC's dad, hope its ok to post the links.
  24. There's something similar in that you can run looped short exposures (exactly what liveview is doing pretty much) which display on the computer screen allowing you to focus Probably easier to focus as it's on a bigger screen tbh. Jordan
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