Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by piprees

  1. Thanks Alan, I'll give it a go. P.
  2. Hi, I'm now the proud owner of a ZWO ASI1600MM-cool. Can anybody give me information on how to connect it up to Sharpcap or ascom or any other program for that matter. I've downloaded the stuff advised by ZWO and more, it's just that the various programs can't seem to 'detect' it. I also have a ZWO filter wheel and that will have to come into the equation as well. This is new to me after a couple of years with a DSLR and I reckon it's quite a bit different so any help will be greatly appreciated. Not only that, I also sold my beloved Guzzi for this venture so I really would like it to work. I've got windows 10 installed if it helps. Kind regards, Phil
  3. Ok, thanks again, this is going to take some time. An even steeper learning curve but, hey, on the positive side, it may keep the old dementia at bay!!! P.
  4. Thanks guys, however... Whoa!!! 'fraid you lost me there, sorry. P.
  5. Thanks Ecuador, I'll give it a try and use more. What's Dark Master? Sounds good. P.
  6. As a general rule, the number of darks that I would take would have been about the square root of the number of lights, 6 for 36, 8 for 64 etc. Since I've been guiding, my exposure rate has gone up from a max of 120 secs to usually above 300 with a 30 sec pause between exposures. I now seem to be getting far more noise that I can't seem to get rid of. I'm thinking it's possibly a problem with the camera, (Canon 40D), but could it be that I need a greater proportion of darks with these higher exposure times? How many darks per lights do other folk do at 300+secs? Kind regards, Phil
  7. I'd like to help but I don't quite understand your text. Maybe it's a Norfolk thing...
  8. Yeh, they really are, lets you focus like a boss. The guy who developed the idea has got some sort of copyright on it but somehow it allows anyone to make their own, making sure that no single company rips people off trying to make excess profit, so he must be an all round good egg. P.
  9. Got to agree with Demonperformer and Tiny Small, go for the sturdiest mount you can get. Just as an example, NEQ6 pro, £700 on ebay, all singing, all dancing plus belt modification and not too far to collect. It took a bit of patience waiting for the right one to come along and it was certainly worth the wait. Best of luck, P.
  10. Got a QHY 5 11M. Lovely for both guiding and planetary. Had a bit of a problem with PHD2 some months ago when I got it but it was fine with older PHD. Strangely, PHD2 works fine now so it wasn't a problem with the camera. This one of Saturn was my first planetary, also got a pretty good one of Jupiter but can't find it. Also, it came from AliExpress, quite a bit cheaper, BUT.....it was before brexit and the exchange rate isn't as good, not only that, AliExpress has a bit of a bad reputation. I personally had no problem but weigh it all up first. Best of luck. P.
  11. Either washers on patio or drill 3 smallish holes. Marks on weights bar for balance, same on the dovetail. I try and set up at dusk, just able to see polaris through polar scope to get PA then 2 star alignment. It'll be dark enough to do that but not dark enough for imaging. It just stops any need to rush, have a coffee, watch tv, go to the loo!!! I've even put a mark for general camera focus. Even have PHD and APT already loaded. About 30 minutes all in. Then I can't find the torch...
  12. Yeh, I had a few problems with PHD2 when I first started guiding so loaded PHD1 and found it was great. Tried PHD2 again about 2 months ago and it loaded and works fine now, very strange indeed.
  13. Hi, I would have said balance but if that, and P.A., is sorted, how about trying the USB 3.00 port on your laptop. It's one of those things that should really make no difference but hey, things that should happen can be completely different to things that do happen.
  14. Great. Have a look at Forrest Tanaka's tutorial on you tube, "astrophotography without a star tracker". Easy to follow and quite inspirational, also same subject. It's the one that got me totally hooked.
  15. Lovely image. If you can get your head around masks, you can lasso the cigar galaxy and work on it on it's own, bringing out loads of colour.
  16. Mine's a startravel. Got it off ebay, with rings, £40.00, and it's never let me down.
  17. Thankyou, both of you. It really is a major step, not least being the cost!!! But two things here, one, we only get one chance at this life, gotta take it, and two, I've got this wonderful theory that learning, and especially steep learning, keeps dementia at bay, (I would put lol in here but I can't stand that expression). Wish me luck. P.
  18. I'm tentatively playing with the idea of moving up to cooled ccd imaging. After a couple of years using a Canon 40D, would I see a noticeable change. I'm considering a ZWO asi1600, a QHY9 mono or a Moravian g2-8300, all with LRGB filters. I'm mainly into deep sky objects with a skywatcher 200p on a NEQ6. There's lots of figures available on the sensor specifications for these instruments but quite frankly they're rather baffling. Does anyone have experience with any of these and how different would the workflow be? Kind regards, P.
  19. Many thanks, it's a great help. There's lots of youtube tutorials for dslr work but not so much for ccd. Got to take the plunge. P.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.