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piprees

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Everything posted by piprees

  1. I don't want to tempt fate but things seem fine. All systems working, just need to take it outside and try to focus on something. However... It won't connect through the usb3 port, strange, have to use usb2. It doesn't come up on the APT list. I do a shift/connect but I only get ascom, qsi & sbig. Tried ascom and got camera v2 simulator, cmos qhy511 & simulator. But then, I am only using the demo version of APT. I guess sharpcap will do the job but if anyone can help... Gina, you use APT and/or sharpcap. What are the benefits do you find of one over the other? Demonperformer, I will have to go looking for the restore partition. Unfortunately, this would still leave it (i) with an internet connection, and (ii) [even if I deleted the wifi drivers] wanting to waste resources looking for an internet connection. If I could find an operating system that had no internet capability [and knew it had no internet capability], I would swap to it in a heartbeat. Have a look at "Eagle Observatory". It's expensive and new but, quite possibly, the next stage in A.P. Pip
  2. Gina, you're an absolute gem!! My biggest problem is finding where thing are and I certainly wouldn't have found where that was through trial and error. A couple of good nights coming up hopefully. Thanks again, Pip
  3. Just read through ALL of this thread as I got the camera, electronic filter wheel and filters yesterday. Camera is sorted through SharpCap but the filter wheel, hmm, I've no idea where or how to control it. Please help!!! Many thanks to all who have put what settings they're using, they'll be a great help. Kind regards, Pip
  4. Thanks Alan, I'll give it a go. P.
  5. Hi, I'm now the proud owner of a ZWO ASI1600MM-cool. Can anybody give me information on how to connect it up to Sharpcap or ascom or any other program for that matter. I've downloaded the stuff advised by ZWO and more, it's just that the various programs can't seem to 'detect' it. I also have a ZWO filter wheel and that will have to come into the equation as well. This is new to me after a couple of years with a DSLR and I reckon it's quite a bit different so any help will be greatly appreciated. Not only that, I also sold my beloved Guzzi for this venture so I really would like it to work. I've got windows 10 installed if it helps. Kind regards, Phil
  6. Ok, thanks again, this is going to take some time. An even steeper learning curve but, hey, on the positive side, it may keep the old dementia at bay!!! P.
  7. Thanks guys, however... Whoa!!! 'fraid you lost me there, sorry. P.
  8. Thanks Ecuador, I'll give it a try and use more. What's Dark Master? Sounds good. P.
  9. As a general rule, the number of darks that I would take would have been about the square root of the number of lights, 6 for 36, 8 for 64 etc. Since I've been guiding, my exposure rate has gone up from a max of 120 secs to usually above 300 with a 30 sec pause between exposures. I now seem to be getting far more noise that I can't seem to get rid of. I'm thinking it's possibly a problem with the camera, (Canon 40D), but could it be that I need a greater proportion of darks with these higher exposure times? How many darks per lights do other folk do at 300+secs? Kind regards, Phil
  10. I'd like to help but I don't quite understand your text. Maybe it's a Norfolk thing...
  11. Yeh, they really are, lets you focus like a boss. The guy who developed the idea has got some sort of copyright on it but somehow it allows anyone to make their own, making sure that no single company rips people off trying to make excess profit, so he must be an all round good egg. P.
  12. Got to agree with Demonperformer and Tiny Small, go for the sturdiest mount you can get. Just as an example, NEQ6 pro, £700 on ebay, all singing, all dancing plus belt modification and not too far to collect. It took a bit of patience waiting for the right one to come along and it was certainly worth the wait. Best of luck, P.
  13. Got a QHY 5 11M. Lovely for both guiding and planetary. Had a bit of a problem with PHD2 some months ago when I got it but it was fine with older PHD. Strangely, PHD2 works fine now so it wasn't a problem with the camera. This one of Saturn was my first planetary, also got a pretty good one of Jupiter but can't find it. Also, it came from AliExpress, quite a bit cheaper, BUT.....it was before brexit and the exchange rate isn't as good, not only that, AliExpress has a bit of a bad reputation. I personally had no problem but weigh it all up first. Best of luck. P.
  14. Either washers on patio or drill 3 smallish holes. Marks on weights bar for balance, same on the dovetail. I try and set up at dusk, just able to see polaris through polar scope to get PA then 2 star alignment. It'll be dark enough to do that but not dark enough for imaging. It just stops any need to rush, have a coffee, watch tv, go to the loo!!! I've even put a mark for general camera focus. Even have PHD and APT already loaded. About 30 minutes all in. Then I can't find the torch...
  15. Yeh, I had a few problems with PHD2 when I first started guiding so loaded PHD1 and found it was great. Tried PHD2 again about 2 months ago and it loaded and works fine now, very strange indeed.
  16. Hi, I would have said balance but if that, and P.A., is sorted, how about trying the USB 3.00 port on your laptop. It's one of those things that should really make no difference but hey, things that should happen can be completely different to things that do happen.
  17. Great. Have a look at Forrest Tanaka's tutorial on you tube, "astrophotography without a star tracker". Easy to follow and quite inspirational, also same subject. It's the one that got me totally hooked.
  18. Lovely image. If you can get your head around masks, you can lasso the cigar galaxy and work on it on it's own, bringing out loads of colour.
  19. Mine's a startravel. Got it off ebay, with rings, £40.00, and it's never let me down.
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