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PlanetGazer

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Everything posted by PlanetGazer

  1. Hello Mr GuGuzai Dobsonians are a great choice, usually size 8 , or 203mm with 1200mm focal lenght is the sweet spot. (https://www.opticaluniversescientificinstrument.com/products/gso-8-deluxe-dobsonian-telescope or https://www.opticaluniversescientificinstrument.com/products/duplicate---skywatcher-skyliner-300px-flextube-dobsonian-synscan-go-to-telescope-1-1-1 it depends on your budget at the end. all should do well for planets. I see planets fine in my 130mm and 250mm mirror telescopes. more detail in the latter. Big mirrors does get affected by weather, change of temperature from warm to cold or vise versa (if telescope is stored inside then you bring it outside for example), it will require allowing the mirror to settle to surrounding temperature in the observing site. some use fans, but around 30 mins of waiting should be fine. as for imaging, manual dobsonians and any manual Altazimuth mounts will make tracking obejcts hard, as you need long exposures to get good imaging. however some experienced astrophotographers manage to get ok images with dobs.
  2. start with pointing an object on the ground during day, large tower chimney, can you see things fine ? be ware of the sun, never go near it
  3. Currently Looking at the ones you mentioned here, also found these much cheaper ones: https://www.365astronomy.com/32mm-SWA-Super-Wide-Angle-Eyepiece-70-degree-2-inch.html definitely they would not match the quality of the above, but how much is the compromise?
  4. I'm considering both, part of the list of comparision. Noted, thanks for the advice! you are tempting me more towards the 20mm, also thank you for the advice. Thanks. Sorry all for the late replies, I wanted to read all advice with a clear mind. After reading all, I shifted my search to the right eye pieces, but i'm afraid I fell in a new rabbit hole, there are other options that came up, so still undecided, I will update with my final choices before I buy
  5. Planning to add a 2" EP to my collection as I have a SW 250P (10 inch) and want something special for DSOs and would love to capture the range of Andromeda in a gaze, so angle would be important . I'm thinking of the range between 35mm to 50mm. Budget is not a limit, though I would prefer to have an EP reasonably priced if available. I regularly use the 25mm standard plossl that came with the scope, which is doing more than ok. I have a 32mm and 16mm classical plossl, but don't use it much as it's hard to use with eyeglasses. I was thinking of the Explore Scientific 52° 40mm, but then I realized it's only 52 degrees and other reviews say that the brand is planetary focused. I was also looking at the televues, but should I make the crazy jump? I wouldn't mind much cheaper EP that have a little less performance that I wouldn't notice anyway at my current level, or is it worth it now? Thanks in advance! Edit:typo
  6. a question that I have been wondering about lately, though, only looking for short exposure only, as I use my dob usually for visual. But would love to take a couple of short exposure pictures. Wonder if the Canon EOS 4000D (NIS) is any good for astrophotography? Also, Nikon COOLPIX B500, found it on sale
  7. That's a great price! I did find similar car jump starters, but they are either small cheaply made lithium batteries, which is a safety concern for me; or a lead acid battery that's over priced (equivalent to £ 100 after discount link). So maybe buying a proper safe lithium battery with double the life-span (theoretically), could be the best value.
  8. I do need a power tank as most of my observing sessions are remote. I live in a flat with restricted outdoor space. the power tank is expensive, but the cheapest available power tank that can be shipped to my location. Regarding voltage, the manufacturer states it has a " 4* 12V DC for car powered device under 60W" which I think means 4 outlets that you can connect to a cable with negative car socket adapter. The mains outlets are 2 and are 120V AC (300 Watt Surge)
  9. I tried buying the SW or Celestron power tanks from multiple sites, US and UK. but non would ship internationally. For safety reasons
  10. What do you guys think of this power station. I would buy one for my current telescope or any other in the future. Reason I'm thinking of this one, as it's the only site that'll ship internationally. https://www.rockpals.com/collections/portable-power-station/products/250-watt-portable-generator-rechargeable-solar-generator-with-110v-ac-outlet https://www.amazon.com/Rockpals-250-Watt-Generator-Rechargeable-Emergency/dp/B075SSMR6K
  11. lots of good tips and advise in this post, which helped me. Thank you! No problems at all 3 Amps for mains power seems fine so far, 4 Amps could be next on my list, though mobile batteries are my priority now Trust me I have lost more, and kept my patience in many xD but glad that I gained knowledge in a new area (power and electricity) This was also helpful, I've never went back to the battery and decided to try a working car battery first, before buying a dedicated one. Thank you! I'm considering a 17 Ah or larger. Can't find a shop that will ship to me, due to safety regulations. Though I may just end up buying a separate car battery Impressive battery! I've bought a value voltmeter for the long run. I will start to learn how to use it. I have used the default accessories for the initial trials until I got it aligned and then used different accessories but were similar weight and did not find any major problems. regarding set up options, all were correct, I double checked with the amazing Synscan init 2.0 app as well. and yes I was excited! I found that the scope takes the longer angle to rotate sometimes, and the the cables get extended to the limit. to remedy that, I locate the object on the sky map, manually rotate the scope to the direction of the object (with the handset directional buttons) then use the GoTo to locate the object, this will make the scope not turn more than 180 degrees and will contribute to saving power. They have, but I'm much happier now xD Thanks for the help Ron This is good advise. the use of up and right as final steps to align, do contribute to the accuracy of the allignment
  12. Update : I would like to thank everyone for their contribution in this topic. I have finally managed to sort it out. As many have suggested, power was the issue, and I have managed to solve it. Sorry for the late reply, but finding the right time for an observing session + weather + debugging the issue, all contributed for the late reply. I have planned to test 2 methods: 1- Use mains power 2- try car socket battery power. Which meant I had to find some power supply cable and an extinction cord for the cigarette socket to position the scope an appropriate distance away from the car, to keep all sides visible. 1- I found 2 power supplies with 2 Amp 12 V (Mains power), tried them and both didn't align the scope correctly . I managed to find a power supply with 3 Amp 12 V and with multiple tries on different nights I finally managed to get the stars aligned with acceptable accuracy. As long as the target is anywhere in the 25mm EP view, I'm pleased. Boy was I happy when I managed to view Uranus for the first time! Not an easy target 2- So after I managed to align successfully using mains power, I had to insure that my scope works well when using batteries, since I ,mostly, stargaze outside my home. I tried using a working car battery via an interior cigarette socket, using the original cable that came with the scope, connected to an extension cord I bought. I manged to get an alignment that was one nudge away from target ( I might have been able to align more accurately if I tried again), though this was good enough for me to start the session and this time I went for Neptune! very small even in a 5mm EP, which was pushing the limit of my skies at that night. I have also enjoyed the views of a couple of DSOs. My next mission now is finding the ideal battery for my use! I would like to thank this community for helping me solve my problem and for keeping this hobby live and enjoyable!
  13. From my experience, I learned so much about the sky from trying to align the GOTO than my manual EQ scope. Note that aligning the GOTO scope is not a straight forward task for a complete beginner, you would have to learn the bright stars and their positions in the sky with a map/app to align your scope to it. It requires patience in the first sessions. + it's an Alt-Az mount, so you can push it manually any time. A manual scope, however, would force you to learn more of the sky extensively on the long run. Also, an equatorial manual scope will require you learning Right ascension-declination grid to set-up your mount, the scope doesn't move in an upright motion on an equatorial mount If you ask me, a manual EQ scope is a good choice early on on the hobby. If you consider the GOTO, I would recommend that you search more on how to use GOTOs before buying it, hopefully it will lead to an informative decision. Edit: just noted that the scope you bought has an EQ1 mount, note that both EQ1 and EQ2 are note that sturdy.
  14. nice picture there! This could be of topic, but I wonder how you clean such a big a mirror? Clear Skies
  15. Have a look at these: 1. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/beginner-telescopes/skywatcher-heritage-130p-flextube.html 2. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-130.html This one requires learning how equatorial (EQ) mounts work 3. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/beginner-telescopes/skywatcher-skyliner-200p-dobsonian.html If your are going to go deep in this hobby, pick this rather than buying one now, and another later Before you buy, search for better deals, and you can price match at FLO
  16. This could help as it shows the different types of viewing conditions, if you do a star test, qouted from Astro Baby's website: http://www.astro-baby.com/astrobaby/help/collimation-guide-newtonian-reflector/ " Collimation perfect. Airey disk shows neat concentric circles. The innermost are dark due to the telescopes central obstruction caused by the secondary mirror. Collimation is out of adjustment – Results such as these suggest the primary mirror is not well aligned. This is simple to correct in the field by adjusting the primary mirror collimation screws. Small adjustments only are needed. Atmospheric turbulence – The air around the telescope and in its line of sight is being disrupted by rising heat or by higher altitude turbulence. You cannot star test with this present. Pinched Mirror – this is the classic ‘heart’ shape indicating the primary mirror has become stressed. Initially check that the collimation adjusters are not over tight. If the problem persists you will need to remove the primary mirror cell and make sure the clips holding the mirror to the cell have not been over tightened. Another common cause of ‘pinching’ is often over tight tube rings. Tube currents – the telescope has not cooled sufficiently to the outside air temperature. Allow the telescope more time to cool down. Astigmatism can be caused by poor collimation but also by poor quality optics. Secondary mirrors which are not flat either because of bad collimation or bad polishing are typical causes. Usually caused by incorrect figuring of the primary mirror. This cannot be corrected by the user. It indicates faulty optics in the mirrors design or production. These show typical patterns for mirrors with poor optical surfaces. This may be caused by roughness of the mirror caused by poor polishing or damage from poor cleaning. This is not correctable."
  17. Agreed! I also had the same issue with my 10 inch, I left it to come into equalbrium with surrounding temperature and manged to get a good view. Though in the last two weeks, I'm not getting the best views, as Jupiter is getting away from us. I also noted that some nights have a turbulent atmosphere where viewing planets deteriorates extremely, specially when the planet is not up at a high angle. May I ask what have you used to capture this image? Edit: just realized it's not your image, my bad
  18. yep, it's the same as the one I have. My scope came with the CollapsibleGoToDobsonian manual, and a synscan manual, both are similar regarding alignment. Noted, thanks for the heads up. Reading all the feedback, I can conclude that I will have to test it on a main (AC) power source, and see if it works (that would be me asking my friend to bring his car that have an AC plug). If it works then, I would have to find a permanent working solution for my battery and charger, as I don't have an observing site with an AC power available. Thanks all for the contribution, I will update this topic after my next session. Clear Skies
  19. Oh! well thanks for that, I will have to try this next time! I will confirm this after my next session Daylight saving is set to no all times, local time zone doesn't use Daylight saving. All data entry shouldn't be the problem, as I have tried using the Synscan app which enters all data automatically once you allow it to connect to the web and allow location on before the start of linking the app to the scope.
  20. what would make the clutches slip other than heavy weight or cold temperatures? I did use a heavy 5mm eyepiece X-Cel, but was not using the heavy finder with it, only a light red dot finder. Temperatures are high since I received the scope. The scope is new anyways, received it in early August.
  21. Well I was in a dilemma since I received the scope whether to keep it or take it, but the frustration made take. I regret taking it apart. I will have to find an alternative. regarding the clutches, they are embedded inside the box yes.
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