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1parsec

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About 1parsec

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    Proto Star

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    http://www.daverose.co.uk

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    Male
  • Location
    Banbury Oxfordshire
  1. Over packing is more of a problem in normal applications where the shaft and inner race of the bearing is spinning at 1000's of rpm. The grease heats up and becomes more of a liquid and the pressure of the balls running in the grease forces the grease passed the seals. But for a slow moving telescope mount it isn't much of a problem. Packing the bearing full will increase the drag of the axis, which mechanically isn't a problem for reliability but might cause tracking issues ?? When greasing this bearing I would leave 50%>75% space for the grease to move around the balls.
  2. Try a search for "face spanner" or "caliper face spanner" https://www.google.com/search?q=face+spanner
  3. How were you tensioning the belt that broke ? The damage is definitely from over tension.
  4. That looks like a DC servo motor with geared head fitted on the front of the motor for reduction. I would say the play in the gear shown in your video is the natural backlash you find on the output shaft of a gearbox of this type. It could be one of the internal gears has worn on it's shaft allowing more clearance between the internal gears and increasing the backlash. If that's the case, it is going to be quite an involved fix. The thing to try first would be to have a small imbalance in the DEC axis so the 'weight' of the scope keeps the gears pressed in one direction which will take up the backlash.
  5. Does the motor have an integral gearbox attached ? Can you post another photo of it.
  6. Or it could translate to - don't force on the allen key until it looks like a clock spring
  7. The pier is a re-purposed fork truck bollard used to protect the corner stanchions of a high bay racking. I used to look at them thinking they'd be perfect as a telescope pier. The warehouse layout was re-done, the bollards became redundant and I managed to squirrel a few away. It was many moons ago.
  8. The height of the gussets depends on the section & height of the vertical tube. If the diameter and section is substantial enough then the gussets can be kept short just the stiffen the joint between the tube and base plate. With piers it's diameter that's King The bollard we used at the show would work well in real use.
  9. Hi Alan, The FLO picture pier with the owls nest would be better than one with the rats nest threaded rod. The threaded rods don't offer the same torsional stiffness. The tip- tilt resistance of the pier is down to the section of pier tube and how well the gussets between the base plate and vertical tube is done. I like to see a thick base plate with a footprint slightly larger than the pier tube with the holding down bolt holes drilled close to the gussets. Some thing like this but say 8 gussets !
  10. If you've got the budget, do them all while you've got the mount apart. Or just replace the worm bearings as they're the bearings they can affect PE with higher frequency errors compared to the axis bearings.
  11. I agree, but I didn't want to over complicate the adjustments initially by suggesting doing them in the dark. It's best to learn do the adjustments in daytime until you have a good understanding of what to move, and how much. Daytime adjustments will get the setting 95% sorted.
  12. Use the handset set to maximum slew rate and press the appropriate E-W and N-S buttons.
  13. You can make the worm adjustment in daytime. First remove the scope, mounting plates and counterweights from the mount. Start with the RA adjustments first ( though it doesn't matter which axis) Loosen the 4 M6 socket cap screws fixing the worm housing to the main casting just enough so the worm housing can be moved with the grub screws. Not too loose so that the casting is 'flapping' about. Assuming you have a little bit of play in the axis, loosen the grub screw on the flat side of the worm housing 1/4 turn and tighten the grubscrew at the radiused housing end. Gently tighten the 4 M6 cap screws again and slew the mount at full speed for 1/4 revolution. If the mount slews fine, repeat the above until the mount binds at some point. This is when the worm is a fraction too tight in mesh. Make the opposite adjustment but adjust the grub screws 1/8 to 1/10 turn to loosen the worm mesh and repeat the slew test, but this time for a full 360 degree. This can take quite a bit of time, just take it slowly and make small adjustments.
  14. Hi Malc, The kit uses Synchroflex belts which have steel wire tension members and polyurethane rubber which are good down to -30C and up to 80C. Damage is usually due to excessive tension.
  15. Not sure if they can do a custom length in Synchfroflex T2.5 ? Would be quite expensive if they do??? The standard 177.5mm length is the correct length any way
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