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1parsec

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About 1parsec

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    http://www.daverose.co.uk

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    Banbury Oxfordshire
  1. It looks normal to me. On this type of gearbox there is usually a bit of end float from the output shaft of the gearbox. If the mount is tracking & slewing ok, I'd leave it well alone You could strip the gearbox apart and fit a couple of nylon washers to minimise the end float but I doubt it would give anything beneficial to be worth the effort.
  2. Hello, The rattling you are are describing is usually caused by the worm gear mesh being a fraction too tight. It's a straight forward user adjustment to make. See Astro-Baby's guide on Worn Engagement for RA Axis on this page - http://www.astro-baby.com/heq5-rebuild/heq5-we1.htm 1/8 turn on the adjustment screws should do it. .
  3. Hello Capt' My 10mm Delos has the field stop in exactly same position, so no problem there. The outer circle in your view should be a sharp black circle ( formed by the field stop ) If the edge circle was 'fuzzy' then I can only guess your eye wasn't close enough to the eyepiece / eye cup too far out which restricted the view ?
  4. 100mm box section is quite small for that height. Stiffening ribs 1/2 way up the sides would needed. But I would recommend using a much large section from the start. It'll give a more rigid set up and future proof in the event of a larger scope comes along
  5. I would turn off PEC correction via the GTO controller too while you're testing this out. I had a 'funny' blip on my mount and the PEC wasn't ok and needed to re-record it. Also do a DEC-RA test run just to make sure backlash isn't an issue. Ray Gralaks Pulse Guide http://www.pulseguide.com/index.html can run this test and give a visual of the backlash performance Good results look like this https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/483600-ap900-dec-backlash/ If backlash is detected check according to this pdf - http://www.astro-physics.com/tech_support/mounts/backlash2.pdf
  6. Hi, Take a look at these videos on YouTube. Skip to 2:04 and note the way the belt behaves when going forward and then in reverse. The bottom side of the belt doesn't go loose when the motor reverses. If you see the belt drop at all, when the motor runs clockwise, then the belt is too loose. Once you have the belt set up properly you'll not want to go back to gears. Some mention the balance has to be perfect with belts. It doesn't have to be. It's better to have a very slight East heavy set up as this will prevent the worm wheel 'bouncing' side to side in the backlash / clearance, the same as you would have with gears. Also try running with a fraction more backlash in the worm-wheel mesh. You may have this set just a bit too tight. This video also shows how much finger pressure is needed to tension the belt - not much needed. Skip to 26:40. The bottom side of the belt again stays straight when the motor first runs @ 27:45 One other point to check is to make sure the belt isn't rubbing heavily on the end of the pulley. This will be due to the pulley not aligned with the track of the belt as it passes past the idler roller. see step 9 in the instructions.
  7. I think Lightbuckets suggestion is right. The mesh is just a bit too close and on a cold night things have contracted a fraction causing the axis to bind. I'd be very surprised if the mount was to freeze. The motors do generate some heat even when stationary and that would probably enough background heat to keep the mount from freezing.
  8. Hi, The double diffraction spikes are from the spider vanes. The opposing vanes need to be in perfect alignment (straight) or you get that effect.
  9. Nicely done. I hope the addition of the bungee didn't over stretch your budget
  10. Hi L B. The adjustment ring touches on the outer race of bearings which presses the outer race against the ball bearings and then on to the inner race. This takes out the natural clearances manufactured in to the bearings. If you over tighten the ring the pressure on the bearing can be such that it doesn't turn smoothly. It can get really 'lumpy' if you really over do it and could be damaged to the point the may not run smoothly ever again Just 'finger tight' is all that's needed on the ring adjustment. The shaft isn't in a fixed position, rather supported between 2 bearings which 'position' can be adjusted.
  11. Hi Spill, The outside of the ring gear needs to be lightly greased too. This is because when the clutch levers are loosened the outer casting and ring gear will be sliding relative to each other. If no grease is present the surfaces will be rubbing and possibly gall up and seize. The clutches will operate fine with the grease.
  12. I've used these guys a few times. https://shop4fasteners.co.uk/ Ok you'll have to buy a box of 50 or 100 but for example a box of 100 1/4" UNC x1" long £5.78 +vat isn't bad. https://shop4fasteners.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/98522/s/socket-head-cap-screws-self-colour-1-4-20-unc-x-1/category/3949/ I couldn't see low profile socket cap screws in UNC on their website, but it may be worth a call to see if they get them in.
  13. I use Aeroshell32ms grease when regreasing the worm / wheel gears on my mount. ( It's now called Aeroshell 64) You can order it from Transair - http://www.transair.co.uk/sp+AeroShell-Grease-AEROSHELL-Grease-64-400gm-Cartridge-MIL-G-21164D-DEF-STAN-91-57+2938 £20 for a 400g cartridge It's what Astro-Physics use in their mounts :-)
  14. You might find it better value buying from an electrical equipment supplier. eg https://www.rapidonline.com/voltcraft-fsp-1136-6a-fixed-voltage-power-supply-51-7498 AP recommend using a slightly higher supply voltage ( up to 18VDC ) for use in lower ambient temperatures so choosing one with an adjustable output may also worth considering.
  15. The 18Kg payload limit is a guide as to what the mount will carry and still be usable for observations. The actual limit will depend on the the length of the OTA and the focal length. A long tube and / or a long focal length will require you to be more conservative with the total weight. If you are getting good results with your set up, all is well. Mechanically I would think the mount would easily hold double the max figure without doing any damage.
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