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Everything posted by irishbloke

  1. I got a catseye teplate from flo. the yellow shape is cool as you can place the sticky out bits to point towards the clips and collimation screws. It's very good.
  2. I had the 130pm which is what you're talking about and enjoyed it. But the mount is a hassle to set up and takes a bit of practice to wok out which knob you need to twist. I then went to a dob and love it. Even my wife can work it and find stuff. Personally if you can I'd go for the 150 dob. The mount means you can just plop the scope outside and observe when its cooled. The eq1 mount with the 130 has to be balanced and polar aligned and then the motor is okay but no where near astro photography standard. The tripod is also a bit more shakey. all that said the 130 gave me great views and I really learning the sky a bit more. Brian
  3. It's not even dark but steady air that you need for thehigh power stuff. We in UK don't tend to get to steady transparent air that someone in a.desert mite. When you lookatthe moon and see it shimmer that's the culprit. It mite be heat of ground but also thegulf stream has an impact. I'd stickto.w200 ish formax power. On eye peices I loved my 32 plossl in my first scope. Then upgraded to a 32 sw panaveiw which at 2" was great. I also loved the baader hyperion 17mm. Ive now got a 7mm nirvana.which is.good. As for.the.tmn I got.a.6mm one and im not that impressed with my f4.7 scope. Mayhem to high mag but think it just doesn't.work for me. Have fun in your new dark home! Brian
  4. Have you plans for this Parallelogram mount? How heavy is the tubing? How did you attach the head to the tubing? Do you have to weld it on or is it just bolted it on? Did you cut the metal braces yourself or did you buy them? Thanks again Brian
  5. Peter Can I ask how much that was to build? Is there any need to counter balance the weight of the binoculars on the opposite side of the head to stop the whole thing twisting? How did you mount attach it to the tripod? Could you do a picture of that part? Thanks Brian
  6. align the red dot finder or finder scope during the day!!!
  7. I love mine. Can lift in one peice but like was said its awkward to carry far. As for accessories definitely get a reddot finder of some sort, either telrad or rigel are good. The view through it are great. As for collimation it becomes easy, just like tuning a guitar. A telescope is a tool and you will quickly become the master of it rather than scared of it. The process of collimating isn't damaging so you can do it. Hope you enjoy whatever you choose. Brian
  8. I like the way you can download sample chapters for free. I think I'd downloaded the turn left at orion a while back but can't remember what I thought of it.
  9. As far as I know it's parabolic vs spherical not flat. A flat primary mirror wouldn't work. A spherical, as in the right size of ball would be in complete contact with the mirror does focus light towards the secondary mirror and eyepeice but doesn't focus it just right. The parabolic mirror has the centre part ground a bit deeper that sorts the focusing issue better allowing you to see things sharper. Brian
  10. there was a wixey on astro buy and sell last night. i have one and have just fitted a rotary encoder for the azimuth. There's a lot of stuff on here about setting circles for dobs and the how people have found them. I made a very basic platform for leveling the dob which means the tube only moves in the vertical alt rather than an alt az movement if base not level. This means you can get away with just using wixey for alt and pan to find if haven't got azimuth sorted yet. I got a cheap pda on ebay and then got a program that gave the alt az co-ordinates. I haven't got the azimuth encoder tested yet but I'm confident it will work well. Brian
  11. Spaceboy, I've been playing around a bit and the lead seems long enough to allow the gemred to rest on the edge of the side board above the alt bearing while attached by the magnets. This means it's a bit higher up and possibly easier to read the screen. The magnets seem to be on the top of the gemred rather than the bottom like the wixey. so they wouldn't easily sit together. I think this will work well though. Get sorted on one axis and then the other. Really need to get some clear ground to have a play with this. :-)
  12. I got my boards back together and managed to get the bolt locked off. I had made the mistake of not having used the nylon lock nut and the bolt was turning as I turned the mount. The lock nut sorted it all out and now the gemred is able to do its thing. The cat cable isn't that long but I think I'll have another about the house. I'm thinking of using velcro or something to fix the display somewhere. We've a good 7-8" of snow in the back garden and I'm not lugging the scope anywhere in this weather but I'm pretty confident the system should work as hoped. Thanks again. Brian
  13. Just got my Gemred after a long back order! I'm delighted Spaceboy sorted me out with a very nice drilled bolt. I just got new base boards made at my wife's work so I'm going to have some fun over next couple of days getting it up and running! How's anyone else got on with the mod? Brian
  14. The fella does seem to have the site for it though!!! Looks like quite a view. It will need to be quite the mount to carry and move it though! Maybe when I win the quadruble roll over!
  15. That is very cool!!! 18" you say. WHat sort of focal length and f ratio is it? brian
  16. I liked EarthTools - Find places, latitude/longitude, sunrise/sunset, elevation, local time and time zones as it's easy to get the different formats of co ordinates and altitudes. just move zoom the map and then click on the tools tab.
  17. Hi Scogyrd, I've read and heard from others the teflon is best on the bottom board because it can be placed near the feet. This means the weight of the scope is constantly distributed in the same way to the feet. If you have the teflon on the top the weight will move around the bottom board so it's more likely to flex and needs to be much stronger to avoid flexure. It might be easiest to cut parts of the ring off to fit round the screws. Brian
  18. i've been talking to a fella in my wifes work, a kitchen manu place, about the different laminates. I had an old sample which was good, but it seems they dont do it anymore. :-( the next best isnt as rough or buttery over teflon. They were going to make a new top board for me out of plywood and laminate. I'm just not sure if the improvement will be worth it, or should i hold out and buy ebony star. They'd do a good job on the routing of the board. Decisions!
  19. I've been looking at instructions on how to wire leds up. Surely it might be easier to light up the displays with red leds that could be turned on and off as needed.
  20. Spaceboy, No probs bout the bracket I was just being cheeky. Chancing my arm! I think I will try to rig up somethin similar. maybe wood as it is easier to work with without tools. I'm thinking a polystrene hood for the encoder part might keep cold out from there.
  21. dohh!!!! Forgot about that. Those ancients have a lot to answer for! Who ever thought of counting in 60s!!! binary I can see, 10's sensible, 60's like what where they thinking! Point is it's easy enough to work out and we should get things into the field of view of a low powered eyepeice which is a pretty good start! Thanks John
  22. I'm a happy man. :-) many thanks spaceboy! On the astromist night mode I'm going to try to ask the maker of the programmer about this to see if an update can address the issue so that red film not needed.
  23. Gary, Got it in front of me now. at this moment polaris is at 54 d 58sec alt and 359d 29sec thaat means I would need to add 0.7 deg to get to zero. In 2 hrs time it will be 54.45 and 358.58 so I would need to only move it .4 and then zero it. At 1800 later tonight it will be 01d 21sec of true north so I would move the scope back 1 21 from a zeroed polaris to get north and zero that as my reference for the night. Fairly simple. Astromist does seem complicated at the start but its worth getting the hang off it. I'm thinking of red filming it as some bits dont go red in some menus even in night mode. It's probably something that could be fixed if requested as the fella making it seems to respond to requests via an astromist forum. Spaceboy I have some red film left over from my laptop screen shield. I have the same PDA and could cut it to size andpost it if you want.
  24. Spaceboy that is a brilliant looking job. If you could knock up another mounting plate I'd take one of those of you too. :-) I think the leveling thing has a couple of advantages are present. If the boards aren't level then you wont be able to get a alt and then be sure as you track in the azimuth it will not move in the alt. Otherwise you would have to constant adjust it as you try to find the object left and right. Gary I've astromist so will get it and have a play. I actually think there is a polar alignment tool which shows where the star should be in a polar scope. but it's dead easy to select polaris in the star chart mode and have it display the azimuth value for it. Then just centre polaris in the eyepeice, zero the gemred then move the scope either back or forward to get to true zero by -8 if for example polaris was at 0.8. Then zero and you'll have true north to work off. I knocked up a leveling platform a couple of nights ago and am dead pleased with it. not a work of art but good none the less. Brian
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