wxsatuser

You should be able to fix this by doing a manual sensor clean once outside and the camera has reached ambient. The sensor clean updates the bad pixel map and should get rid of the hot. dead and stuck pixels.

Almost every imaging session. Single bright flashes or the on and off of a tumbling sat.

Rubber seals will keep dust out where as the metal ones can still let it in. I don't see why you cannot use metal as the mount bearings are fully enclosed. When you think about it the taper rollers are not sealed anyway so the the plain ball bearings should be ok with either shields.

The fastest satellites one might see would be those with an elliptical orbit. A Molniya orbit would typically bring a speed of 10km/sec at perigee where as your average LEO is in the 6.5>8km/sec bracket.

Not really, get enough subs and the correct stacking method and these magically disappear.

If you did darks it could be dark frames at higher temperature than the lights.

Good quality SD cards always worked ok for me. Hot or freezing I don't remember having any trouble with them.

I never ever plate solved but always found the target. About four synchs with CdC and EQMOD is all that's needed, may be the odd nudge with the game controller to be spot on but not often. Guiding was crap with PHD but I then found the Lacerta guider, perfect guiding from then on.

The second link down the psu is adjustable from 9 to 15volts

Yes you can use car fuses, they come in standard or fast blow. Also you can get ready made DC power blocks like in the link below https://www.hamradio.co.uk/accessories-by-manufacturer-west-mountain-radio-accessories/west-mountain-radio/west-mountain-radio-rigrunner-4005-horizontal-58312-1041-pd-7866.php

No most electronics will go to 15 or 16Volts

Just buy a decent supply like this one, you get 20amps with peak of 30Amps, more than enough for most. https://www.nevadaradio.co.uk/product/nevada-psw-30h/ or this one, I use these to power my hamradio gear. https://www.nevadaradio.co.uk/product/nevada-psw-30/

If you are not already, try using mosaic in the result section of stacking parameters.

Think you will find the array is RGBG.

I believe the pattern is RGBG and this camera has pixel shift, don't know if this has an effect in stacking.

it's not a satellite. imo the scope moved at the very beginning of that sub, the bright star was registered then the scope moved for some reason, wobbled may be.

I would think it is not the sensor if it varies in location. may be someone has seen this before

how does it look on the whole frame?

An APS-C sensor with something like the Samyang 135mm will show most nebulae and their surroundings. Modding is not necessary if you get the right dslr, Canon 7DMK2 shows Ha quite well and if you want full frame the 6D is good at Ha, you can use the 6D with the Samyang lens as well.

The data I manged to get was manageable, not as much as some but was enough for me. I also have a vast array of data I had from DSW, most have not been processed. Trouble is I got tired of processing, not that I was much good at it but it took to much time. Now I have gone off on another hobby but I'm still interested but only when I feel like it. Neowise was rather refreshing and did'nt take hours, which was nice.

Exactly, if no one likes the price do not pay it.

I think it's like this, fits cameras with 12.5mm back focus. You could ask FLO for certain. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-nikon-t2-adapter-suitable-for-all-asi-cameras.html

The price of bunker oil has gone up around $200/mt in that time, from around $300 to $500/mt. Some of the cost must have come from the IMO 2020 low sulphur directive which just before the pandemic VLSFO was up near 600 to 700/mt. It did sink down quite low last year but has now risen. If shipping lines wanted to carry on using normal bunker oil, which is cheaper, they have to fit scrubbers, more expense. Some of the extra cost you are paying is to clean up the environment, no doubt, a small price to pay 🤔

That is up to date. Any extraneous conductive parts in an out building, the same as in your house need bonding. 2.5mm cable has not got a big enough earth conductor for bonding. 2.5mm is fine as long as there are no extraneous conductive parts. You can use a three core L-N-Earth or a two core and use the armour as earth as long as no extraneous parts.

The bit in green is fine as long as there are no extraneous conductive parts in the obsy. If you have a metal pier it will normally be in the ground or connected to it, so will be an extraneous conductive part and will need bonding. For bonding the cable will need to be at the very minimum 6mm on TN-S and 10mm on TN-C-S.