Ivor

Thanks for the replies, the root cause was WBPP auto debayer setting wasn't picking RGGB, a rerun got the correct colours. Now for the reprocessing

Finally got to try out some minor changes to my setup after months of cloud and captured M42. I used SPCC to colour correct the image and the image didn't come out quite as red as expected. I don't mind the outcome however interested in why the colours aren't so strong magenta as normal. I'm using a FLT110 with a ASI2600mc, any suggestions please?

Thanks to everyone for the tips I'll work through this and see what I can pull out.

I am working on an image of the cocoon and I'm strugggling with separating the background from the black nebula around the cocoon nebula. It is a rich starfield so the placement of the DBE sample points is a challenge, the image below shows the placement I went with. I avoided the black nebula and focused on the areas I want to remove I've used division and substraction on the subsequent outputs and this is the best I've managed to acheive (starnet2 used highlight the challenge). I've attached the integrated image for other to play with and I'd be grateful for suggestions on how to solve the problem. C19_V2_INT.xisf

@tezz, I've had a similar observatory for about 4 months now and have learnt a few things you might find useful. Hopefully I'm not too late with these snippets. I've not completed my setup yet, so bits of the setup are rough round the edges. Organise the base to be as due south as possible I build a raised base on composite posts partly due to the location but also so I could easily thread cables into a pier I recommend you consider a pier, with a tripod the legs are going to get knocked when someone pushes the apex down Make the warm room as small as you can get a way with, this moves the north apex back to give you access to more north sky for future viewing You mentioned your mobilty issues, if you are moving around in the warm room and using a tripod the telescope will be on the same floor so it is likely to wobbly; another reason to consider a pier The drop apex section is heavy I've tided a rope to the top of mine to help pull it up but the leverage isn't working great, I have a few ideas for easier methods which I'll explore in the summer They don't include stoppers at the end of the rails so the roof can roll off and it is hard to put it back on your own The roof catches the wind and the catch provide aren't sufficent I'm using these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114664826945 & https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114018206227 Hope it helps

Had a chance to go through the complete workflow, aspect are better than my first attempt but I need to take this through a few more times. The background is clipped too much however I feel the detail in the galaxies has come out better. While I wait for the data for my next target to collect I'll play some more. @Aramcheck From one Ivor to another thanks for all your help.

Thanks for the additional advise, I've not purchase any of Xterminator tools yet, so I'm adjusting the workflow and branching off a few directions to see what works best. I'm adapting your workflow and using Starnet2 instead I found I got the best results with a standard STF first and then applying it. The edges of the larger stars are bit rugged so I'm researshing now best to clean it up, cleaning the starless image should be straightforward with clonestamp I'm unsure if I'm being too fussy with the starmask though. Thinking to the next step I'm investigating whether deconvolution to the starless image is the better option over MultiscaleLinearTransform.

I have 3 mins before I head off to work however wow, thanks so much for the detailed process breakdown I'll digest this and come back with a few questions.

You are right this image has been though these process, I was unsure why I'd lost so much color but trying to address one issue at a time. I've attached a version of the stacked cropped image pre DBE. Thanks for the StarNet2 tip I'll investigate than tonight. M82_int_dizzle_crop.xisf

Further research and I have discovered the power of HDRMultiscaletransform, and I have successfully got my image further. I'd appreciate some advice on how to stop the effect around the star in the middle of M81, I’m guessing I’ve been too aggressive somewhere but unsure where. I also tried to bring out the dark lanes in the core of the galaxy using the DarkStructureEnhance script but that didn’t really work either is there another way I can investigate?

I have been working on an image of M81 & M82 so far I've completed the preprocessing steps, Dynamiccrop, DBE, BackgroundNeutraization, photometricColorCalibration and SCNR. I'm not sure how best to proceed in PI, if I have play with Histogramtransformation I see with each increasement levels of detail I'd like to keep, should I be creating masks at each increament before applying another stretch? I've not found a tutorial on approach so I'd be grateful for any tips. M82_int_light_crop_DBE_BN_PCC_SCNR.xisf

Sky flats are an option in the interim, however the weather in the UK is rarely consistent enough to get a clear sky (and I'm not in the office) close to the imaging night. To be honest I'm also hoping to use this exercise to learn my way around Pixinsight new toolset as things have to move on a bit in the last few years.

After too many small technical problems I finally managed to get a set of guided subs, however I've not built my flat light source yet so I'm looking for some recommendations on strategies to get around that and continue practicing my processing. I've tried one approach for a synthetic flat which didn't come out well so keen to hear some recommendations. The attached image was created with the following Pixinsight working flow: Image Calibration with Master Dark and Superbias (21 light Subs @ 300s) Cosmetic correction Sub frame selection Debayer Star Alignment Local Normalization Image Integration It has been about 5 years since I last tried to produce an image so I'm confident I've missed something.

The AFR IV is technically great but numbering system is over complicated (I'm convinced the scaling was converted from inches at the last minute), simpliest way I had it explained was to target a total of 128.5, below is how I used to have it setup with my ST8300M. I effectively did the approach you mentioned and moved the 120mm-s up and down in the OAG but I down get any form of image just some out of focus dust bunnies, which is why I thought the 120mm-s was just too far way to acheive focus. By setting the 120mm-s at the same distance as the main camera surely that assumes the cameras have the same back focus? I have tried this with the 2600mm in focus at night as well as during the day and I just get a grey image with large dust bunnies on the 120mm-s. I've tested the 120mm-s with the fisheye it comes with and I get a clear image so I know the camera isn't faulty. I thought you weren't meant to positioned the prism beyond the edge on the main imaging chip, is this not the case?

If I understand what you're implying correctly the guide camera needs a total back focus of 55mm as well. The back focus of the 120mm-s is 12.5mm and the prism stem is ~42mm if I then add the distance from the middle of the OAG to the back of the AFR IV it exceed 55mm. I think I must be misunderstanding something as the ASI174MM has a backfocus of 8.5mm which doesn't add up to 55mm either. Lodestar that's the one. I'll try the Lodestar again however the micro usb connector is temperamental hence I was considering the 120mm-s

Having restarted my interest in astrophotography I'm trying to reuse as much of my old kit as possible. I've bought a ASI2600MC and I'm trying to follow the setup in the image below except my OAG is 13.5 so fortunately the AFR IV flattener/reducer let's me move the focus plane to make up the distance 55mm. Focus appears good throught the FLT110 however I need to properly test this with a decent stack of subs. My original guding camera was the starlight express v1 and I was hoping to leverage my ASI120MM-S as a replacement but I just can't seem to get it in focus. I've tried swapping the extender with the OAG but still can't get it to focus when I move the 120mm up and down in the OAG. I feel I'm missing something obvious so if someone could steer me in the right direction I'd be grateful.

I'm no expert but I've configured a few of these powerline extenders and I've experienced a number issues especially if you are crossing consumer units (fuse boards). Depending on how you have configured each of the components there could be a few possible causes. One possible issue could be the configuration of the TP-Link powerline adapter have you reconfigured it to have the same wifi name as the main home network? What software are you using to Remote desktop? Please can you clarify can you remote desktop it you hardwire the mini pc into the powerline extender or are you saying your laptop needs to hardwired as well to make it work?

I was actively doing astrophotography for about 6 years and with a house move there has been a gap of 6 years and lots have moved on. I love my WO FLT110 however my SBIG 8300m and QHY8L are probably due an update. Gatwick extended it's flight path over my village so I'm looking at getting a shorter focal length telescope to reduce the impact and pairing it with either the ASI2600 or QHY268, I'm leading towards the Epsilon 180-ED F/2.8 however I'd prefer to use an OAG and I'd like slightly longer focus length if possible. I like doing wide field and I'd also like to do some close galaxy images however I'm not sure my Bortle 4 sky will allow it which is why I've put the EdgeHD 9.5 as a consideration. I'm rusty on the maths and theory involved so I would be keen to hear about alternative scopes and any other points I should go and research so I can make an informed decision. Currently under considerartion: Epsilon 180-ED EDGEHD 9.5 RASA Officina Stellare RH Veloce RH200 AA AG8 (Seen some mixed reviews)

Thanks, for confirming i could find a limited list of adapters I wasn't sure what was out there. I did the DIY pier last time, the location of the observatory at my new house requires the pier to be removable.

Hi, I'm returning to astrophotography after a long break and I'm setting up a new observatory. I currently have an eq6 pro mount which I'm looking to upgrade in the future, so I want to select a pier which supports any potential upgrade path. Two of the options I'm considering are below however the current mounting plates seem to be quite limited. Any upgrade isn’t going to be significant I’d only be looking to support payloads up to 30kg. https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/rother-valley-optics-hd-heavy-duty-observatory-pier.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/pulsar-observatories/pulsar-anti-vibration-observatory-pier.html I'd appreciate any alternative suggests or other factors I should consider.